Stu

All that pin on the stock ecu is a signal from the reed switch on the back of the speedo that triggers when you hit 180km or whatever it is. Its not an output.

If its hunting, rip the cold start idle up off from under the throttle body and clean it and the water lines as they commonly fill up with gunk/rust which causes the hunting,

What ecu will you be using?

Looking good

Had one in the garage for a couple of years - bit nicer to drive being longer wheel base

Did you pre-fill the lines and oil cooler? The thermostat "should' allow a small amount of flow even though its closed.

Jesus thats ugly

^ Like.

Looking good dude! I still like the standard red colour, wish I still had one.

^ this. Even if you've numbered them it'll pay to check the clearances. Its worth the hour or so work to do it and get the shims right especially if you've gone to all that effort

Not easily - the chip is soldered to the board making removal pretty tricky and even then you'd have to decifer the coding to change it

There is a link in my sig below to the full build thread on the NZ starlet club site, some of the more recent posts are on the blog also linked

Try Rhinoceros - good program and if your on Mac there was a free version you could download

Been lurking since 05

Yeah dude, totally different and your right they come behind 3s engines too. The AW11 ze box is one of the better ones from memory with double synchros or special bearings - years since I've worked on one.

Can you post a link to the 'crystal' changing? Haven't heard of this before. To be honest (and I'm not nit picking) I'm not sure why you would want to remove the limiter - they make less power at red line not more, usually peak power and torque is lower down. If you've modified your engine so need the revs then really an aftermarket ecu should be on the cards as the stock tune is more than likely not up to the task.

4agze boxes are E series and wont fit - they're physically much bigger

If they're aftermarket Sard's then the spray pattern should be pretty good - its only the rx7 ones that people complain about but I've never had any issues with them. As long as your running a half decent ecu the Sard550's should be fine.

Another Kiwi here

Yep they'll work. I've run them for years in my 4agte without any issues.

Yes its a common problem. Easily fixed thou as GBR Motorsport says above. Drop the passenger side mount (1 bolt) and lower the box down so it clears the chassis rail. Take the top cover off and the 5th gear assembly is right there. Depends on which model c52 you have but you may need a fine finger gear puller (or make one) to get the 5th gear off as only some came with the holes to wind them off with bolts. Rest is very easy and the parts are cheap too. Probably only need the synchro. Tried running different oil to combant crunching?

Being NA you could open up the gap a bit

Can't just use bolts?

Can be a bit like a hose rather than a nice misting injector but work well regardless. Ran then in my last setup with no idle problems etc.