Stu

They're good lines and I've had them given the tick of approval so thought why not. Yeah will be Neil. Head over sometime dude - give me a call.

With the boot/rear mounted radiators that I've been involved with we've found you really need to maximise the feed and exit air ducting to make the most out of them. A nice thick core is best. Are you running ali pipes back to the radiator? Are you running an electric water pump like a Davies Craig etc?

Should be fine then as the stock ecu can still operate as normal.

Is there plenty of fuel pressure at the rail while its cranking? Might be taking a while to build pressure?

I've been wiring and setting up Links for 10 years or so and they're bloody awesome - but you need to use something that your tuner is confident with. Saying that though a competent tuner should be able to work with most ecu's available. The g4+ range have the bonus of the inbuilt oscilloscope for trigger signal monitoring

Haha yeah, would look cool. Would be relatively easy, just need a tap to the same thread as the banjo bolt really

Thanks dude - pretty slack with updates, have done heaps but too lazy to post anywhere. Yeah small port red top 16v fuel rail - port spacings match the 20v head so handy to use. I think it should be good enough - its got an 044 bosch pump throwing fuel into it so there shouldn't be any issues. Yeah will weld up the cold start injector and machine it smooth. Probably end up running and external reg - will see when I get to it. Tempted to centre feed the rail and loop returns to a reg below the inlet - still pondering at this stage.

Love the wheels dude - tried hard to get some over here but were just too hard to come by. Ended up with some Work Equip 03's instead but still would love some 01's

Hmm, quite behind with this. This update is quite disjointed and happened quite a while ago so will try to update again as a fair amount has been done/happening. So this is kinda where I got to with the inlet: Sat the fuel rail in place and set the angles for the boses Setting the angle Made up some tabs and dummy bolts to hold the rail in position Another shot Welded it all up Also bought some Links. Later changed to G4+ Moving to the brakes, I had a look around for brake lines and due to the cheapness had a bit of a gamble with a set from Safebrakes just over the ditch in Oz.

Depends on which one your planning on using but most will work with the standard auto ecu without any issues.

Looking good bro

Thanks - will make more sense when its done. Will eventually tie into the cage when I finally get around to doing it

So in the search for more low I broke out a grinder... All just tacked in place at the moment, will tig it up(inside and out) tomorrow. Also planning on running a couple of braces back to the floor and then modifying my cusco strut brace to suit. All in the aid of having full suspension range and not having to run the coil overs at max low.

Ryan_EP82 GT : Thanks dude!

What ecu are you running on the blacktop dude? I read somewhere the 5spd ecu vs 6spd does have a few differences and raised rev limit. Can try dig it out if you want

Yes no need to even open the engine in my experience - have done this a few times with no issues. One I even ran on a 2et ecu.

I wouldn't lower the compression, there isn't really any need. Stock 5efhe will handle boost fine - just be conservative with your timing. Re the top mount, yeah it will work but at the end of the day it will always heatsoak and your just increasing your chances of detonation. I'd try and front mount something if it was me

I don't know anything about the Omex units but a lot of aftermarket ecu's only supply low level signals for the tacho, where as the stock tacho is designed to run of the coil -ve which is high level. In the past I've changed the resistor inside the tacho itself to make it work off the low level signal

I've used an Innovate LM1 for years - have also used LC1's and LM2's. All great units and I've had no noticeable variations when comparing against dyno room gear.

You can swap them over if you need to

Depends on your setup and but generally a quick road test with a wideband and det set will confirm everything is ok - more as a piece of mind thing if its a like for like change. As mentioned above generally most ecu's have a level of compensation related to IAT (providing they've been setup properly in the first place).

Should really expand on my "It can all depend on the setup too" statement - with more serious setups it can be plain dangerous on the street and everyone should use caution and limitations based on the setup of the car. Had a customer only last week with a big GTX series turbo on a 5e that was very laggy (4500rpm build and 5000prm on boost) and it wasn't practical to tune much of the load above base wastegate pressure (6psi) on the street. The brakes weren't up to the task of holding 2nd/3rd gear to the rev limit at much more than that - where as the dyno is definitely the place for that with

Road tune does have its place thou and in my experience they both have merits - especially if your starting fresh with a new ecu and/or money conscious. I tend to get a car going and then road tune first to get the majority of the map close and spend a good amount of time on the light load/cruise. Heavy load can be setup on the motorway without getting in too much trouble but it is hard on the car loading up on the brakes. You can save considerable dyno time that way. Then I tend to head to the dyno for overall checking and specific load areas ie full load at max rpm. It can all depend o

Take a look at the Fortune Auto stuff too - very very well built and great performance

Nice car! Is that a 5k head? Try and find a 3kb one if you can - good upgrade straight off the bat with one of those. Any 7k's over there? They come out in the liteace vans.