Stu

Are you using a standard bosch relay? Normally open or normally closed? With the injector channel are you planning to use this as an optional aux output?

I've lost count how many times I've done this conversion Use the complete EP71 engine mounts - if you try to mix and match that mount it can sit the engine on a angle.

The charge coolers are so good these days you shouldnt need to run two. If anything you could fabricate an ice box in the system for drag racing.

I ran a water air intercooler on my old EP71 Turbo S years ago as I didn't want to hack then front bumper up to fit a big cooler. Originally I ran it on the 2et then on the 5efte when i upgraded the engine. Went well. One of the tricks is to make sure the echanger water pump is nice and low down so it wont get airlocks and need bleeding.

No worries! I really should write a knock sensor 101 guide for people - too lazy

The knock sensor wire comes out of the loom by the injectors at the cam pulley cover end. Its normally a black wire shielded with blue insulating over the top. Look where the brake fluid level sensor wire/boost control wire/earths seperate off from the loom at that end of the head. You may need to take some of the wrap off to find it - they do break there quite often. If your fixing it make sure that the shielding continues right to the end by the plug and doesn't earth to anything at the engine end (its connected to sensor earth just up from the ecu). The wire down by the thermostat ho

Thanks! I've got a few new parts turning up this week so will update soon. The goal is to have it running again before Christmas

Haha sorry about that

Shit had forgotten about this- sorry . ' Well I've been working on ALOT of other cars recently which has meant I haven't done much till just last week when I got back into it. I've been working on the inlet manifold again mounting the antilag/idle up solinoid. I've sent my injectors off for a check up and ordered a whole heap of other parts for the fuel setup. Once the inlet and fuel side is together its wire up time - not alot left after that. Here's a few pics from the other week: More updates soon

Haha ^like

Not sure what you have available in your area but bead or media blasting will take all of that off really quick without damaging the metal. Its usually reasonably cheap and will save you hours of work. Keep up the good work! EDIT: Found a pic of what mine came up like - were shitty as beforehand...

Google is your friend - here's a link to the manual. You can use the 4age pin designations, work out what they are (ie #1) and then transpose to the ecu pin out diagram for your car. The pin designations have the same name. http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/e-manage_Blue_Install.pdf

^Haha gold! No fat chicks?! Yes stiffer springs/shocks would help

I've run antilag on my car - didn't have any issues to speak of and when the turbo setup came off everything was fine. Depends on how aggressively its tuned and how long you run it for. Obviously long periods will crank up the heat but a good manifold should handle it fine. Usually there's a rpm and timing delay for antilag that switches it off if its not actively being used - depends on the ecu thou

As you've got extra weight on board (fatty passengers ) the panhard will be pushing the beam axle across as the car lowers on the suspension. An adjustable panhard will help

It shouldn't smell of petrol ideally - usually an indication its running too much fuel

You should turret the rear so you can run proper coil overs - I can find some photo examples if you need

You can make a new manifold and run a bigger turbo - alot of effort thou. Slam a good ct9 hybrid on for starters.

What earth cables do you have running to the engine? Still have the one on the drivers engine mount and the main earth from the battery to the chassis and gearbox bolt? It may pay to check your ignitor/coil are both well earthed to the body.

How much boost is it running

In that case does it have a TPS setup/calibration function?

Yep as above, same as stock if your using a stock ecu.

if you've had the gauge cluster out then there is a 4pin cable that runs from the body loom to the led gauge that could have been knock loose - worth double checking.

Assuming EP82 and assuming your mounting the rpm gauge (rev counter/tacho) on the dash somewhere then one of the easiest places to run the wire from is to pop the factory gauge cluster out and run the wire from there. Its the white 12pin connector that fits into the back of the gauge cluster. Looking from the wire side with the latch on top its the 6th wire in from the right, should be white (but they can vary). Other place to run from is the engine loom to dash plug next to the steering column. Forget which pin but its normally a black wire sometimes with either white dashes or brown da