Stu

Most of the differences are in the wiring not the ecu pins. What are you trying to do?

Try this http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/wiki/EP82wiring/EP82%20Starlet%20Wiring%20and%20Connectors.pdf

Just zero all the tables or turn off the maps so its not adjusting any fueling from the stock ecu - will be fine to drive it to the tuner.

If your running the stock ecu but really want to run an aftermarket fpr, then a safer way of doing it is to leave the stock fpr in place and plumb the new fpr on the return side. Set its base pressure to the same or slightly below as the stock fpr. That way the stock fpr will still maintain all the standard idle/cruise/low boost fueling before the second reg kicks in as boost inceases, raiseing the line pressure higher than what the factory one would which then pushes more fuel into the injectors and richens things up. This way even if the second reg craps out you have some fuel still happe

Run the standard tank outlet (from factory intank pump) up to the swirl pot, then run from the bottom of that tank to your new external pump which will feed the fuel rail. The return from the fuel rail will then run into the swirl pot and lastly you'll have another line from the top of the swirl pot back to the tank.

They're a great unit - just make sure you free air calibrate it ie take the sensor out of the exhaust when you do it. Datalog a run and screen dump the log.

What sort of wide band are you using to check the afr's? Can you datalog a run and post the result?

Just behind the passenger side headlight, should be a grey plug with two wires - wires need bridging/joining

So just to confirm, your on stock ecu only, have set tps and timing to stock? Stock fpr and injectors? Tried a reset of the ecu and checked for diag codes?

Swap in 4efte dizzy?

There's a couple of other forums that i'm involved with that use the same software as this one and they have incorporated a like button that sits next to the report / multiquote / quote buttons below a post. When clicked it pops up a notification that someone has liked your post. Anyway, just an idea, keep up the good work.

So when its cranking your getting an rom showing? This would indicate the triggers are working (well at least the 24tooth pickup)

Have you taken a look at the dizzy and wiring back to the ecu? The wiring is shielded from factory so it may be worth checking its all still intact? Don't suppose you have access to an oscilloscope? You could confirm the output signal from the 24tooth and syncs to make sure the waveforms are as even?

The yaris clutch master is a good option - just have to be careful that the pedal ratio / cylinder size matches the size clutch your using - when I looked into the different versions most were only 200mm clutches ie 2szfe etc. You could always much around the with pin length of the slave cylinder if there were any throw issues I guess. Ive tried sikaflex polyurethans in the past and they were much better at reducing vibration but in my experience they did split open - especially the rear engine mount. At the time I was trying to find a solution I was helping out a company that prepared ev

Hope you crack it but I think you'll find getting the chip off the board quite tricky and that the chip itself may be encoded so you would have to start from scratch tuning. It would be interesting what capability the hardware has over and above the stock maps ie resolution and rpm points. I had a old 2et ecu years ago that someone had painstakingly removed the chip and installed a daughter board via which it was tunable. Unfortunately the hardware limited pushing the rpm out much further but it was reflashed with a different map. Let us know how you get on

As I said above, you need the cam sync. Try the second wire from the left on the dizzy if it has one?

It was years ago but I think this is the stuff http://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/04126906/urethane-putty-devcon-flexane-80-454gm CAD is a good skill to have - I've just drawn up a basic coil mount bracket but I'd drawn up all sorts over the years - so handy.

Hmm, does the emanage software have any sort of rpm read out?

It could be right on the verge of boost cut as from memory its about 12psi for a EP91 ecu? Just seems weird its throwing that error code.

I believe the chip needs to be removed from the board for it to be reflashed

Mine isn't too bad, im just getting old and grumpy haha. There's a full range of different rated filler so you could try a lower rating - will still be so much better than the stock mounts strength wise. I had a nolathane mount made but it lasted 1 launch from new before it crapped out. Pouring them is definitely the way. Which modeling program are you using? I'm fairly proficient with Rhino - great program!

I got rid of the stock inserts and poured some new ones so they're solid now - I think they are sure80 from memory. Its pretty harsh and im tempted to try a slightly lower rating if I did them again. I half made a north/south cross member with a mount on the front of the gearbox when building the last setup but in the end didn't use it. I'm half expecting to tear the rear mount out of the floor so have braced it back to the bottom a-arm mounts. Hopefully it holds - it handles ~300whp last time so should be ok touch wood haha

It stops hot water entering the heater core, ie controls the heater temp and is something I definitely wanted to work. Later model starlets are electronically controlled with the valve inside the firewall. If you dont have the valve your heater will be hot all the time. Yes this is a EP91 clutch master; direct fit. Thanks Morgey, ive had a break in other work so getting into mine for a change. Have done quite a bit lately. If all goes to plan I will be wiring this shortly

Shit/boring update but still heading in the right direction. Inlet is all on for the final time I hope. Just before I refitted it I took the opportunity to replace the clutch master. Obligatory photo Wasn't going to use the standard reservoir so took that off and welded up the fitting so I could drill and tap it to suit a 1/8NPT elbow fitting. It got nice and toasty when I welded it. Some matte black paint to make it looks less shit Done I hate engine conversions that don't have heater hoses - seems such a cop out to not sort them out. The stock EP71 heater lines run via a control va

Have you definitely got the ignition table turned off/zero'd in the emanage?