Stu

Yeah I made up a super rushed side pipe for the nats - can't have it being too quiet! I've swapped out the cam angle sensor and its going much better - no trigger errors showing so hopefully that was all it was. Need to do a run into town for more fuel then I can test drive it and make sure its all going well.

Never too low! Fix that exhaust then get the rear down to match the front - win! Haha Alot of the wiring with some time you can trace to determine what it is but its very time consuming. If you need a hand with the tacho let me know - was it COP before?

Is that asking for the minimum injector pulse width?

Couple of spare earths and likely the oxygen sensor is the other. Check for continuity back to the OX pin on the ecu

Revs shouldn't be too critical as the ecu locks the timing when in diagnostic mode. If you rev it the timing should in theory stay the same.

Pretty awesome dude! Maybe a touch more low on the rear? I've had similar issues wiring up a few cars in the past, can cause some serious head scratching. Well done getting it all sorted. All guages working etc? Worst I ever had was a Altezza conversion - try putting anything other than a stock motor into one - CAN systems can be a nightmare till you get your heard around it.

Nah, I strip the loom back and customise them to suit the application/owners requests.

I set one of these up using a Link G3 ecu years ago. Much easier to just customise the loom to suit.

Nice!

Haha yes you do!!

Looks great! Really like how simple it all is and obviously makes some good power! Out of interest, have you taken those filters off and seen if there is any noticeable increase? I haven't tested it personally but I've heard those smaller filters actually rob a bit of power. A pipercross filter might be a good option as a mate runs one on a 4age KP60 with quads and there wasn't any noticeable difference when on the dyno with or without the filter. Can scrape up a photo if you'd like?

Assuming there isn't a power feed issue and the ecu and open circuit relay are actually getting power - The fuel pump and ignition are triggered from ecu which only runs them when it receives a signal that the engine is rotating from the cam angle sensor inside the dizzy. If the ecu isn't getting a signal then neither the fuel pump nor the ignition outputs will trigger. I'd make sure your pins to the dizzy are the right way around. As a test you can take the dizzy out and manually spin it by hand - you should hear the pump trigger and the injectors clicking.

Stock is fine but you could go to an MSD system if you wanted an upgrade for the stock coil. 2zzge coil on plug setup would be a good next step and works very well in my experience but you'll need an aftermarket ecu to be able to run the sequentially and reap the benefits. Then individual high power coils like HEC715's or AEM smartcoils would be another setup but only if your running a reasonably serious setup. CDI like a pro12 etc is also another option.

Fortune Auto would be my recommendation - every set is custom made, valved to your requirements etc

Ah ok cool. When you get to the point you want more go, you could always swap that unit out for a stand alone engine management and just run the ignition side so you can tune the timing. Ive done that before on a carb setup, works really well. Means that if you run some good fuel you can benefit from increasing the timing. A few degrees can make a big difference.

Sounds good! With that ignition controller, can you adjust the timing? If so I might have a timing map you can extrapolate in for a base tune

Looks like I got a brief mention by Speedhunters http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/01/4-and-rotary-drag-racing/

Thanks dude! In my case its been a case of slowly working on it small step at a time. So on the 24th it was the drag day as part of the 4nRotary Nationals over here - prettty much the biggest import event in NZ (there are a few pretty good events but this is the longest running etc). Pretty average results but a great day out all the same. Got 5 or so runs in before giving up and parking it up - plagued all day with very annoying missfires and random trigger errors which with brief investigation seems to be cause by a faulty cam angle sensor so will be replacing that and trying again. Bes

No, they're not sequentially fired. They're wired from two injectors drives and group fired.

I literally have a box full of these - but in New Zealand which isn't exactly around the corner... /useless post

Update for you Dell, drove it in anger through some corners today. The alignment definitely needs work but I could hold a turn and change gear at the same time without any issues. Need to adjust the panhard a couple of mm. Im fairly certain the diff setup is the biggest contributing factor - getting the preload right ma.kes a huge difference to lock up. Also had a bit of a shocker moment with the boost controller and spiked to 19.4psi - felt strong and looking back at the logs its a bit rich if anything and very little timing so super safe. Hoping to get up to 1 bar finalised with some

For an EP82 the temp gauge runs of a single wire sensor on the thermostat housing - pretty sure the wire colour is yellow or yellow green (sorry my notes are not handy). I can't remember off hand but pretty sure EP91 is the same single pin plug. To check if the wire to the guage is working, with the ign on (engine doesnt need to run), unplug the wire and earth it to the block or use a piece of wire into the end back to earth somewhere. The gauge should head straight up to hot. If it does that then its either the plug not connecting properly or the sensor. Good luck

Well nothing yet and at 13psi now and still havent had a proper alignment - just the old eyetrometer alignment Need someone to sponsor me a go pro that I can mount inside haha

My Link has boost per gear but not sure how well supported they are over there

Sure your not confusing it with the pulsation dampner?