Stu

4afc

I've had the same issue a couple of times many years ago. Initially I pulled the gearbox down and welded in a new section but as above, if you can find another casing just swap everything over. Make sure your using the brace from the mount bracket back to the top of the box - it eliminated the issue for me.

Use a process of elimination - unplug the ecu/ignitor/coil/injectors/idle up solinoids/high-low boost solinoid then try each one at a time to see which one is causing the issue. Also try another main efi relay in the engine bay fuse box as this is what actually supplied the power.

No worries - good luck!

Both of those have inbuilt coils into the distributor. There is a 4efe that comes stock with carbs and that setup. You cannot use the standard efi 4e dizzy without the ecu as the ecu controls the spark events not the dizzy.

The dizzy's are inter-changeable so use which ever one you want. Ideally you would use the dizzy setup with the inbuilt coil as its an electronic setup not a points style pickup and its works better.

Just swap the 1e dash temp sensor onto the 4e in place of its dash temp sensor. They are located on the thermostat housing for both engines - single pin sensor. By swapping the 1e sensor onto the 4e your making sure the dash gauge reads correctly as some temp sensors have different resistance ranges. By speed sensor are you meaning the speedo drive? Just run the stock 1e one into the 4e gearbox.

No that wont work - the ecu tells the ignitor when to fire the coil so you'd need to still run it. Really to run without the ecu you need a points style dizzy. What could do is still run the full ecu, just don't run any injectors so the ecu is still running the timing side of things. You may just need to run possibly a resistor in place of the injectors so the ecu still thinks they are in use and doesn't drop into limp.

Ah yeah, as above then. I can probably tell you what front left/right speaker wire colours are if you really need. The power/earth/acc should be easy as to determine with a multimeter.

If it only occasionally and slightly misses at idle its not really anything to worry about. I'd check the resistance of the leads and make sure there isn't one thats majorly different (they will all vary due to the length). Check the condition of the rotor and dizzy cap. Also check the primary and secondary resistance of the coil. If its not doing it when driving its a fair bit harder to track down. What fuel are you running? Whats the base timing set at?

On a NA you can probably run as big as 1.1mm but I usually set them around 0.8

I usually use the highly scientific setting of 4 dugadugadugas on the big air wrench /useless post

What do you need to know specifically?

Stock ecu?

What are the plugs gapped to?

I don't drive on the street with the side pipe and the suspension is quite different for the track so theres plenty of clearance. Went to the night wars even last friday and it was spitting some pretty cool flames in the dark. No major improvement on time thou - the alternator crapped out so didn't have any clean passes. Best was 14.05 and 105mph so same same really. Alternator is off for a rebuild and I'm going to change the coil power side setup so hopefully avoid voltage drop.

Ha possibly not air density related then

Does it cut out when the air temperature is cold, but doesnt when its warmer? In which case its boost cut. Colder air is denser.

Whats your boost gauge reading?

Here's a couple - sorry its rwd but you get the idea.

Yeah its inside the gauge cluster - the tacho assembly usually comes out with a couple of screws (don't take the tacho needle off) and the primary resistor is the first one on the board from where the IG- signal enters.

Ah that will be due to the primary resistor not quite being the right size. I can tell you how to work it all out if you need - I think I detailed it once on here before. Happy to email to you if you want

Whats the column with the % asking for? Sorry its been so long since ive used a PFC. A negative number doesn't look right for a minimum pulse width. Sure its not individual injector adjustment?

So it only works at random times? Is it reading the correct rpm when it does work? Or is it half the actual rpm?