Stu

The two major contributing things that effect the fuel map are the map sensor signal itself, and water temp. The oxygen sensor also has input when the engine is warm but only to a certain load when it switches to open loop. The air temp sensor also plays a part but only minor trims. Have you had a wideband on the car to see what the AFR's really are? In my experience the factory turbo ecu's always run rich at high rpm with ct9's - in the region of 10.5AFR in places. Also remember that when warming up the engine will run richer AFR's due to cold start and warm up enrichment. Assuming

STA needs 12v when cranking so connect it to the NSW wire. STA triggers the ecu that the engine is cranking and it adjust timing accordingly before releasing to the normal ignition map. For example a 20v 4age will run like a bag of dicks if this is not wired up.

Yep an ultimate would run COP as it has the options of running up to 6 ignition outputs

As Morgey suggested above, make sure you have 12v on the NSW (and STA pin for that matter) when cranking. Assuming the ecu is powered properly, if you removed the dizzy and spin it by hand do you hear the injectors clicking, get the coil sparking and the fuel pump should run?

Yeah its a pain alright - would be nice to be able to delete the lot without using an aftermarket ecu.

Its not possible on the stock 4e or 5e ecu though. The 20v ecu runs a single ignition channel so the coil on plug units all fire at the same time, but because the ecu runs sequential injection the system still runs OK. The 4e/5e ECU only has batch fire injection so it would fire 4 times per revolution causing all sorts of backfires and kickbacks etc. You need a logic circuit with a small ecu to divide the ignition signal into two or four channels but the issue with that is working out how to not effect the dwell and spark edge. The multicoil version 4e/5e could run coil on plug as wasted sp

I've installed a couple of these and have just left all the tables zero'd before taking them to a dyno. From memory you can turn the maps off - its been a while though so can't remember specifically.

Yeah 12mm laser cut flanges - I've got a jig made so they wont ever warp with the heat etc while being made. I'm not sure to be honest, I've seen lots of cracked ones!

You can just set all the tables to 0 so its not adjusting anything?

Sorry no, just talk to your ecu supplier, they should have access to a range of pickup wheels? Or I believe there is a 5efe model that came with the pickup and multicoils standard?

Yeah thats why I was wondering if it was run by the ecu.

It looks like its been missing for a while! I wonder if that particular version has the sensor elsewhere? Definitely stock ecu? Could be controlled by the ecu but I haven't seen that on a stock ecu before.

Ive had my Innovate unit for 10 years or more - can't fault it really. 0-5v output can be fed to some ecus so that you can datalog AFR against map etc. 10:1 to 20:1 is just its operating range ie 10AFR to 20 AFR. Innovate at 7.3 to 23 from memory.

Fit a crank pickup then you can delete the dizzy entirely and run COP

Sauce! Skids to celebrate?

Is there a loose plug laying around somewhere?

They definitely have them, the Glanza I just finished working on has it.

I make them https://www.facebook.com/JonesBrothersProjects/photos/pcb.148141362184205/148139512184390/?type=1&theater

That's usually where the radiator fan switch is located.

Sorry I can't answer that question about the gen1 SV CT9 as this is the first (and last) one I have experience with. Years ago I used to have hybrids made up for people with either VF8 or VF10 front wheels and they were all based on standard seals so possibly this is the case in which case they would be easy to change.

If you look on the back of the head under distributor you will find it. Make sure everything is plugged in snuggly and not covered in oil

Sorry its been a while since Ive worked on one. There's only the pump and the float level in there.

That alittle low but not actually too bad but im not used to driving your particular model. You could make sure that the temp sensor is plugged in properly (just check all the plugs on the thermostat housing). Is the oxygen sensor plugged in? The ecu should be trimming fuel if the oxygen sensor is working

There is a float on an arm and its at at the bottom of the arm.

Swap the plugs out for normal ones and go to a 7 heat range for that boost. Something like BKR7ES. Then gap to 0.75-0.8mm for starters. They're cheap plugs and much more forgiving to over fueling that iridiums.