Stu

^Sorry for the late reply but thanks for the feedback! Novel time! Over the summer break I didn't do too much to the car other than finally fit the windscreen and roof gutter trims, buy some Hoosiers (first time ever) and fit a new seat in the drivers side. I also changed the alternator belt and made a new adjuster to get a touch more tension on it as it was slipping at idle at the event in December. We had the 4&Rotary Nationals over the weekend just been so about two weeks ago I got the car out to give it a once over and a bit more road tune time. With the help from my mate Kris (aka KPR - NZ EP record holder with 11.75 pass) we managed to wind quite a bit more boost into it so had a low setting of 10psi and a higher setting of 18psi with the fueling still very safe in the 11's at peak load. The timing side hadn't really ever been seriously looked at other than making sure it was safe so this time we added in a bit and the difference was quite dramatic. A big increase in power and a change in the the power delivery too and it just goes mental over 6500rpm and its still wanting more fuel at the 8300rpm rev limit so the inlet manifold must be working. There was still alot of room for improvement but with the clock ticking I just left it there and will look at more tuning time in the future. Only issue was I kept breaking TPS units and had run out of them so we did all the tuning without one. About a week out from the nationals my brother Ryan (aka Finx - World EP with CT9 turbo record holder with a 12.75) came over and gave me a hand to swap the springs around and setup the suspension and alignment. For the drags he had good success with heavy springs in the rear and soft springs in the front so we put my 8kg springs in the rear and set the shock to hard, and put some new 4kg springs into the front and set the shocks to a medium soft setting. No camber and just a touch of toe out. Things were looking pretty relaxed and under control On the Wednesday/Thursday before the Nats I put together the drag racing gearbox and fitted it on Friday. This was built using my original gearbox that had the LSD in it till it smashed the cage housing apart. First drive didn't go so well with the crown wheel eating the housing... (my fault, didn't double check the bearing preload which allowed the diff to walk). This resulted in a very busy Saturday building, fitting and testing another gearbox and getting the car on the trailer. Made it to the Nationals on Sunday. First run was up against my old mate Matt in his awesome 4agte AE86. I had a good reaction time but wasn't used to the Hoosiers and bogged so had to kick the clutch a few times to get it off the line and hooked up so Matt got a good head start. Got to third gear and was steaming to catch up with Matt but the engine started running on 3 cylinders in the higher revs. Managed to beat him to the line but it wasn't a clean run. Back at the pits it turned out a spark plug lead wasn't seated properly so not a major to fix. 2nd run was up against a pretty cool MR2, tried launching in 2nd but again it bogged and took 3 or 4 clutch kicks to get it on song. He must have had a similar shocker as he only had a slim head start. Third gear I had a boost spike at 6500rpm which hit map limit so I short shifted the gears from there and ran a 14.5 and the win. Lifted the map limit on the ecu between runs and launched at 7500rpm on the third run - again bogged and had to kick it to get away against the EVO i was paired against. Hit map cut again and ran thru for a 14.7 or something like that. My laptop ran flat so couldn't change the tune so for the fourth run which was elimination, I dialed a 14.0 not knowing how it would go. Decided to run on low boost (10psi) and launch in 1st rather than second. I had a reasonably clean but slow launch (2.3 60ft) and 2nd ran thru clean so flipped high boost for third, had my finger on the button incase it spiked again which is did so short shifted 3rd and ran low boost again in 4th. Netted a 13.7@101mph run but against my 14.0 DYO time I had broken out so was out for the competition. I hung around for a few hours waiting for grudge racing but my 13.7 run turned out to be the last run of the day due to delays and some rain coming thru so packed up and headed home. On the way back home Kris asked me what triggers the VVT and we realised that without the TPS it doesn't operate (runs on a TPS/RPM condition switch) so the cam timing from 1600rpm to 6400rpm was very flat due to the VVT inlet cam not advancing 30 degrees as per normal. So even though it wasn't the greatest of days it was quite promising knowing there is way more potential even at low boost. Not sure which of the next night wars events I will get to before the close of the season in March but i'm pretty keen to get the TPS working again (or just set the condition to an rpm switch only) so VVT operates. Huge thanks go to Ryan for helping with the suspension/alignment and gearbox diagnosis, Kris for helping on the day and to tune, and Matt/Karl for motivation and good laughs as usual. TL:DR version - mixed results again but good experience and figured out a few things for the next event in a few weeks time.

Have run wasted spark with high boost on many setups, but you are right about running it with big overlap cams. The second "wasted" pulse can cause a few issues.

Hunting at idle is usually due to the idle up assembly under the throttle body getting a bit chocked up with corrosion (its common). The system works via the water lines that run to the throttle body which which operate a wax diaphram that bleeds air past the throttle plate when its cold. There isn't any ecu connection to it. You can pull it all off and clean it to remedy the problem. Which plug where you pulling off? Most don't throw a check engine light except maybe the TPS if you pulled that one off? Good luck

4e alternator will work. Plugs sometime differ but the circuit design is the same (ie charge post and three pin plug with sense/ignition switch/charge light wires) so you can just swap on the right plug if need be.

Fuel rail wont make any difference to the air fuel ratio unless you change the injectors or the fuel reg

C56 is a common conversion, shorter final drive and a few different gear ratios. Same design internally. Just swap off the 4age bellhousing and drill the passenger side mounts into the casing and your good to go. Good and strong. C160 also fit but are a weaker box. Probably fine for most setups though. Larger E series boxes don't physically fit without massaging the chassis

It could be that the helical units are a factory option supplied by TRD?

No problem - good luck!

60-65mm is a good size. Ive had a few 4e's through with 75+mm units and they often have decel to idle stall issues especially with custom inlets with small plenums (these have had aftermarket ecu's by the way). You can tune a decent size idle bypass solenoid to avoid the issue though but takes some time.

The shielding at the ecu end doesn't start for 100mm or so, knock sensor end its good practice to run it as close to the sensor as possible. Remember the knock sensor shield must only be connected to the sensor ground earth pin on the ecu (E21 from memory) and not connected at the sensor end. The ecu monitors the electrical inductance compared to the normal engine ground and filters that out. Also the shielding for the knock sensor is also connected to the shielding for the oxygen sensor so make sure that shield isnt touching earth at the sensor end too. The pin inside the knock sensor plug also can cause a bad connection - oil and shit can build up on it. Its the first thing I look at when fault finding knock sensor issues for customers. Clean and tighten the pin, check the base timing is set right, then if its not that look at the wiring then a sensor. About 60% of the time is the plug or wiring, and about 30% of the time its the sensor, and 10% its actually knock caused by timing/low octane fuel.

Bugger about the damage mate, sure you will have it back looking better than ever soon

Looking good dude! Nice score on the Turbo S tail lights. Getting harder and harder to get in good condition. Its like the rear mid spoiler, would love one myself but havent seen one come up

Mine was only 50mm from memory - but its not a EP95

RS Online will sell shielded wire

You can do them like this too but the flow wouldnt be as good entering the turbo

Totally agree, a larger diameter size would definitely make it worse, just commenting on their emails and possible solutions which were laughable.

Nord-lock washer would be another option.

Yeah dizzy 24/1 setup has given me a good run so far!

Haha thanks, im just a guy with a grinder Few other bits and pieces on my Facebook page if you want a look, link in signature below Using a mill would be way easier, trick is to get the two pairs made and tacked together then machine the two pairs to merge together - if that makes sense. Will post some photos of making one if I can find them

BKR7e will handle quite a bit of boost - I run them in most of the engine setups I build and have seen 20+psi with them without any issues as long as the tune is good. Have run 8's on higher boost setups. As mentioned above, just check them every now and then. Its good practice to read the plugs anyway

Im making manifolds all the time and just use a grinder, a bench top belt sander and some patience. Drop saw makes the job a bit easier

Still hits cut on the factory ecu occasionally from what I have heard (cold dense air usually causes it) - have had to slacken off the actuator arm so there's almost no preload. Last I heard its going fine, I haven't seen Andy for a while but will try to catch up with him this weekend. Turbo itself is fine, its just the wastegate port that lets it all down. Still makes me laugh they suggested restricting exhaust flow to combat the boost spike

+1 for Link, have wired up 30+ of these over the years, definitely my favorite ecu. +0.5 for MS, they can have issues running off the factory triggering at times. Generally good ecu's but not my favourite. Haltech are good, Motec are great but can be more expensive (dependant on which one). PowerFC are usable but no way near as refined as newer ecu's.

Handy diagram - Ive done that wire up a few times now. One setup for a Jam ecu I spliced in above the original plugs as the owner wanted to be able to swap between the ecus (for some reason)

I've wired a heap of ecu's into e series engines and have always just used the factory triggering. Set the dizzy then lock into place. Sequential injection/ignition all ok. Only issue Ive ever had with a Toyota 24/1 pickup was a random high load miss that turned out to be caused by very corroded trigger pickups - serves me right for not looking at it properly