Stu

^Sorry for the late reply but thanks for the feedback! Novel time! Over the summer break I didn't do too much to the car other than finally fit the windscreen and roof gutter trims, buy some Hoosiers (first time ever) and fit a new seat in the drivers side. I also changed the alternator belt and made a new adjuster to get a touch more tension on it as it was slipping at idle at the event in December. We had the 4&Rotary Nationals over the weekend just been so about two weeks ago I got the car out to give it a once over and a bit more road tune time. With the help from my

Have run wasted spark with high boost on many setups, but you are right about running it with big overlap cams. The second "wasted" pulse can cause a few issues.

Hunting at idle is usually due to the idle up assembly under the throttle body getting a bit chocked up with corrosion (its common). The system works via the water lines that run to the throttle body which which operate a wax diaphram that bleeds air past the throttle plate when its cold. There isn't any ecu connection to it. You can pull it all off and clean it to remedy the problem. Which plug where you pulling off? Most don't throw a check engine light except maybe the TPS if you pulled that one off? Good luck

4e alternator will work. Plugs sometime differ but the circuit design is the same (ie charge post and three pin plug with sense/ignition switch/charge light wires) so you can just swap on the right plug if need be.

Fuel rail wont make any difference to the air fuel ratio unless you change the injectors or the fuel reg

C56 is a common conversion, shorter final drive and a few different gear ratios. Same design internally. Just swap off the 4age bellhousing and drill the passenger side mounts into the casing and your good to go. Good and strong. C160 also fit but are a weaker box. Probably fine for most setups though. Larger E series boxes don't physically fit without massaging the chassis

It could be that the helical units are a factory option supplied by TRD?

No problem - good luck!

60-65mm is a good size. Ive had a few 4e's through with 75+mm units and they often have decel to idle stall issues especially with custom inlets with small plenums (these have had aftermarket ecu's by the way). You can tune a decent size idle bypass solenoid to avoid the issue though but takes some time.

The shielding at the ecu end doesn't start for 100mm or so, knock sensor end its good practice to run it as close to the sensor as possible. Remember the knock sensor shield must only be connected to the sensor ground earth pin on the ecu (E21 from memory) and not connected at the sensor end. The ecu monitors the electrical inductance compared to the normal engine ground and filters that out. Also the shielding for the knock sensor is also connected to the shielding for the oxygen sensor so make sure that shield isnt touching earth at the sensor end too. The pin inside the knock sens

Bugger about the damage mate, sure you will have it back looking better than ever soon

Looking good dude! Nice score on the Turbo S tail lights. Getting harder and harder to get in good condition. Its like the rear mid spoiler, would love one myself but havent seen one come up

Mine was only 50mm from memory - but its not a EP95

RS Online will sell shielded wire

You can do them like this too but the flow wouldnt be as good entering the turbo

Totally agree, a larger diameter size would definitely make it worse, just commenting on their emails and possible solutions which were laughable.

Nord-lock washer would be another option.

Yeah dizzy 24/1 setup has given me a good run so far!

Haha thanks, im just a guy with a grinder Few other bits and pieces on my Facebook page if you want a look, link in signature below Using a mill would be way easier, trick is to get the two pairs made and tacked together then machine the two pairs to merge together - if that makes sense. Will post some photos of making one if I can find them

BKR7e will handle quite a bit of boost - I run them in most of the engine setups I build and have seen 20+psi with them without any issues as long as the tune is good. Have run 8's on higher boost setups. As mentioned above, just check them every now and then. Its good practice to read the plugs anyway

Im making manifolds all the time and just use a grinder, a bench top belt sander and some patience. Drop saw makes the job a bit easier

Still hits cut on the factory ecu occasionally from what I have heard (cold dense air usually causes it) - have had to slacken off the actuator arm so there's almost no preload. Last I heard its going fine, I haven't seen Andy for a while but will try to catch up with him this weekend. Turbo itself is fine, its just the wastegate port that lets it all down. Still makes me laugh they suggested restricting exhaust flow to combat the boost spike

+1 for Link, have wired up 30+ of these over the years, definitely my favorite ecu. +0.5 for MS, they can have issues running off the factory triggering at times. Generally good ecu's but not my favourite. Haltech are good, Motec are great but can be more expensive (dependant on which one). PowerFC are usable but no way near as refined as newer ecu's.

Handy diagram - Ive done that wire up a few times now. One setup for a Jam ecu I spliced in above the original plugs as the owner wanted to be able to swap between the ecus (for some reason)

I've wired a heap of ecu's into e series engines and have always just used the factory triggering. Set the dizzy then lock into place. Sequential injection/ignition all ok. Only issue Ive ever had with a Toyota 24/1 pickup was a random high load miss that turned out to be caused by very corroded trigger pickups - serves me right for not looking at it properly