Stu

I raised the turrets in mine so I could get a good range of lowering as there is a limit as to how short the shock bodies can be made to. There's a few more photos in my build thread from memory

You can use the trigger wheels inside the dizzy but get rid of the cap/rotor etc and make a blanking plate if you wanted - have done this multiple times with aftermarket ecus and sequential or wasted spark coil setups.

From my experience of running with and without and using my wideband to see the difference the lambda sensor is used for idle/cruise closed loop trims and when the engine is under load the ecu swaps to open loop control instead (no feedback from sensor). With the oxy plugged in the ecu does run richer in the idle/cruise area of the maps - possibly runs fail safe base settings (bit hard to tell without looking at the tune which isn't possible). With the oxy wired and working the trims do take a while adjust (possibly why the ecu has a constant 12v feed as a memory wire) but they do make quite a bit of difference depending on your atmospheric conditions and the fuel used etc. I'd recommend running one if you can.

If you take your original cluster and look at the circuit board on the back you can trace and work out what all of the pins are to make your own diagram. Then do the same for the Si cluster. From this you can then work out which pins need to swap to where. The tacho wire is present in your existing wiring, it just doesnt run to anything in the dash. From memory there wasn't may wires that need changing location in the plugs. The pins pop out really easy.

Ive raised the rear turrets in mine but its not a ep95 so may differ?

Sorry for the delay in reply, Ive only just noticed this. They run from inside the car thru the firewall to the struts, then from the struts down to the front of the chassis legs. There's crush tubes thru the chassis legs thru which its bolted and from the underside there is another bar that runs from side to side. Basically a front end cage. It locks the whole front end together for extra rigidity. I've run it without and it does seem to make a difference with the handling and power to ground. Ive also tagged the engine mount to the bar for a bit of extra strength.

^ Dude! Awesome!

Cheers! This is what the track looked like when we turned up - got water haha. We ended up driving loops of the track in procession to dry it out. Next event is our annual nationals in late Jan. Got some stuff to sort before then!

Thanks guys! It was a super sweet chilled day so got heaps of runs in and there wasn't any stress.

Went to the track for a skid on Saturday. Super slippery as it rained over night and the track wasn't prepped. Ran a string of low 14's but couldn't dial any more boost out to get some off the line traction. Fun day and the car went great.

Sweet wheels! Your going to have some epic poke going on, over fenders?

Have you tried driving it in diagnostic mode and seeing if it will start throwing a code that way? Will be really lazy to drive as it locks the timing in diag mode.

Yeah they run the same plug, would think your running a colder BKR7e or even an 8 for that boost?

Thanks !

You can make your own leads if you really wanted but it is very very fiddly especially if you go for the 10.5mm leads like I did with my original setup. Magnacor made my custom leads up for the 20v - cost $115nz.

Thanks! Go on do it!

Thanks dude. Definitely not the tidiest or neatest compared so some of the awesome engine bays shown here, but its unique i guess

The ends of the wires have terminals on them and these can be removed from the plug. Easiest way is to use a pick and lift the keeper tab up and you should be able to pull the pin out.

Nothing much has changed since last time I posted it in here but the photography skills have... got worse? Sorry, photos were taken with my phone and a little fish eye lens so are epically shit. Yeah yeah i know its dirty, will clean it one day

There is a link to it in my signature below

BKR7e - gap to 0.8mm or so. They will run a lot more than 1.4bar with no problems and they are miles more forgiving that iridums

That looks awesome! Nice work

It depends on how hard core you want to go, but replacing the insulation with new wide PVC tape is a good start. All the custom looms I make these days I use braided covering rather than split conduit. Takes longer to do but the result is tidy. More photos on the old FB page if your interested.

Depending on your budget (and finding a competent tuner who has experience with them) there's quite a few that are pretty good. Link is still my preference but the Motec M1 series are awesome and the latest offerings from Haltech and AEM are also pretty rad. If you really wanted you could make 350-400hp on just about any ecu but its how easy it is to setup and reliable the tune is that matters. Newer ecu's have alot more scope for advanced variables with overlay maps and fail safes etc that can give you a lot more piece of mind.