Stu

Sorry, last two are off my phone and they are a bit shit.

I have been installing Link ecu's for 14+ years and fully recommend them. Solid and very reliable. The G4+ platform is going from strength to strength too, the current firmware and tuning software is fantastic.

Been a while, pulled the car out and started it today, few checks and its pretty much ready for the season. Have been crazy busy with working on other peoples cars - check out the facebook page if your interested (in signature below). Few photos

Cool project and nice progress!

It depends on the exact setup your 4efe has as the JPM and UK versions vary I believe but no, you cant really adapt them as the two ecus (usually) have different ignition setups etc and usually the 4efte needs a couple more wires that the 4efe harness wont have. You could cut and splice into your existing 4efe loom with the 4efte ecu but you may have to lay extra wires through the loom. I've converted EP91 ecu's to work in EP82's by cutting and splicing as needed. One car I wired up both plug formats at the same time so he could plug and play between a EP91 JAM ecu and his stock EP8

You've re-gaped your iridium's or are you talking about a standard set? At 1bar (piss all boost) you shouldn't need to gap them down at all. Out of the box the BKR7e's are usually between 0.8 and 1mm anyway. Have you checked the leads out? Just measure the resistance end to end using a multimeter. They all will vary due to the different lengths but you should see a pretty similar step in resistance as the length gets longer.

Innovate gear is very good, have run one for the last 10years or so and even though its outdated now it still works perfectly and even compared it against new units on the same vehicle. Have been thru a few sensors though

Iridiums are ok but are not as forgiving for overfueling as normal plugs. They tend to be harder to clean once they have had a good overdose of fuel. I tend to run BKr7e's gapped to suit the application. Have been using them for years and never had an issue, $7 a plug is also a bonus.

It depends on the ecu really - a lot of stand alone ecu's either have their own inbuilt map sensor or run a generic fitment map sensor (like GM 3/5/7 bar for example) or an map sensor that the calibration tables are known. Links for example have their own family of map sensors (2.5/5/7bar etc) with known calibration tables but the software also has the tables for the GM units and a few others common units. Its definitely possible to work out the voltage vs pressure table with some careful bench testing (apply levelled steps of pressure and vac etc while using a linear 5v supply then just

Different voltage output curve too, so even if you wired it in the fueling/timing would be all over the place.

The wire needs to be connected for the light to work - you can check the circuit is working by grounding the wire, the light should come on.

Yeah it could be the throttle body lines but usually if the lines are around the wrong way it will run rough and low rpm as it floods number 4 (just had one thru with that problem). You can soon tell by pulling the plugs. High idle I'd be checking for air leaks as a starter, at 4000rpm its probably a half decent size hose off (like the brake booster or cam cover breather line for example). Let us know how you get on and fingers crossed its not too serious

If you take the dizzy out (leave it plugged in) and spin it by hand, do you hear the injectors click/fuel pump prime? This tells you that the triggering side is working correctly and the ecu is getting the signal. Of the two plugs, the 4 pin plug is the triggering signals to the ecu and the other plug is the coil power and tacho output.

Yes you can, little bit of wiring needed. Do you have any photos of the existing dizzy/inbult coil? Are you sure its faulty?

Bosch, Aeromotive or DW pumps are all good. The DW pumps are much better fit than the Walbro ones as the outlet pipe/plug orientation is actually the right way around.

Yeah it can get quite complex, mine runs a launch rpm via a switch then runs a ramped return rate after that. Im probably going to run my speed input to it as well at some point but its going to take a fair amount of work to get it right.

Launch control can be quite complex if needed - from simple launch based on a single rpm settings via a clutch switch, to 3D setups that controls the rate of rpm increase to minimise wheel spin via driven and non driven wheel speed sensors etc. Depends how good your ecu is really.

Link is my preference over Haltech, I've installed ALOT of them over the years.

Yeah they are pretty good and have wired a few. Not my favorite overall but everyone has their own preferences. Very capable thats for sure.

Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key on? This indicates if the ecu is getting power. Next check if the FP pin outputs an EARTH when the engine is cranking over - if yes then the issue is somewhere with the circuit open relay or wiring to the fuel pump. If no, then the ecu might not be sensing that the engine is rotating (which is what it needs to then trigger the fuel pump circuit). In that case you could pop the dizzy out, leave it plugged in and spin it by hand with the key on - you should be able to hear the injectors click or the coil sparking. If thats workin

Yeah it just sounds like the starter trigger isn't getting 12v so either the alarm is stopping it or there is another issue. Check at the starter end first. You can also check for power at the dash loom to engine loom plug under the dash.

Just talk to whoever you will be going to for the tune - they will have a preference on ecu or hopefully a range of options. Can depend on your budget too - but engine management is not something you want to scrimp on

Usually its the regulator in the alternator causing that issue - just slap another alternator on there if you can find one easily enough

Are you meaning running a 4efte ecu on a 4efe?

Unless you running an alarm the trigger circuit it pretty simple.