Stu

Sorry, last two are off my phone and they are a bit shit.

I have been installing Link ecu's for 14+ years and fully recommend them. Solid and very reliable. The G4+ platform is going from strength to strength too, the current firmware and tuning software is fantastic.

Been a while, pulled the car out and started it today, few checks and its pretty much ready for the season. Have been crazy busy with working on other peoples cars - check out the facebook page if your interested (in signature below). Few photos

Cool project and nice progress!

It depends on the exact setup your 4efe has as the JPM and UK versions vary I believe but no, you cant really adapt them as the two ecus (usually) have different ignition setups etc and usually the 4efte needs a couple more wires that the 4efe harness wont have. You could cut and splice into your existing 4efe loom with the 4efte ecu but you may have to lay extra wires through the loom. I've converted EP91 ecu's to work in EP82's by cutting and splicing as needed. One car I wired up both plug formats at the same time so he could plug and play between a EP91 JAM ecu and his stock EP82 ecu.

You've re-gaped your iridium's or are you talking about a standard set? At 1bar (piss all boost) you shouldn't need to gap them down at all. Out of the box the BKR7e's are usually between 0.8 and 1mm anyway. Have you checked the leads out? Just measure the resistance end to end using a multimeter. They all will vary due to the different lengths but you should see a pretty similar step in resistance as the length gets longer.

Innovate gear is very good, have run one for the last 10years or so and even though its outdated now it still works perfectly and even compared it against new units on the same vehicle. Have been thru a few sensors though

Iridiums are ok but are not as forgiving for overfueling as normal plugs. They tend to be harder to clean once they have had a good overdose of fuel. I tend to run BKr7e's gapped to suit the application. Have been using them for years and never had an issue, $7 a plug is also a bonus.

It depends on the ecu really - a lot of stand alone ecu's either have their own inbuilt map sensor or run a generic fitment map sensor (like GM 3/5/7 bar for example) or an map sensor that the calibration tables are known. Links for example have their own family of map sensors (2.5/5/7bar etc) with known calibration tables but the software also has the tables for the GM units and a few others common units. Its definitely possible to work out the voltage vs pressure table with some careful bench testing (apply levelled steps of pressure and vac etc while using a linear 5v supply then just read the output voltage and create a table from that) so any map sensor can be used but alot of stock ecus wont run up to high boost pressures.

Different voltage output curve too, so even if you wired it in the fueling/timing would be all over the place.

The wire needs to be connected for the light to work - you can check the circuit is working by grounding the wire, the light should come on.

Yeah it could be the throttle body lines but usually if the lines are around the wrong way it will run rough and low rpm as it floods number 4 (just had one thru with that problem). You can soon tell by pulling the plugs. High idle I'd be checking for air leaks as a starter, at 4000rpm its probably a half decent size hose off (like the brake booster or cam cover breather line for example). Let us know how you get on and fingers crossed its not too serious