Stu

^This. To clean the idle wax diaphragm you need to take the whole thing apart and carefully clean it out, they fill up with scale and rusty water. In my experience this is the cause for 95% of all hunting issues.

Haha Ive always battled with the exhaust on my car trying to get them lined up and the clamp pulling down evenly, but have recently discovered the male/female ones with the step so once they are together they don't slide. Totally worth the few extra $ they cost.

I think you will be fine since the lines are rubber. So when is the turbo being fitted?

All good

Looks like a idle speed control solenoid

Can you show us with a photo?

Looking great as usual mate. I really like the power steering hose clamps, great idea.

Did you clean it out like I suggested?

About 5mins drive back up the motorway from the track is a gas station so ice is on easy supply. I usually take my 12/24v fridge/freezer to keep the drinks/meat for the bbq cold anyway so will likely just slam that down on -18 and keep a few bags frozen. Its only ~$4 a bag

There's nothing hard about converting to carbs (actually individual bike carbs would be awesome!) but the tricky part is the ignition side. The 4e carb model would have the ideal distributor setup so just swap than in and away you go, or you could setup a 5efhe ecu to run the timing side only. Ive done that for 4age carb setups before and it works well. You just need to setup a TPS and mount the air temp sensor close to the carbs. It means you don't need to worry about setting up the efi fuel pump/tank/lines.

The EP82 has a front mount intercooler already, the box in the engine bay is a secondary ice box and is removable for drags only. It will be a passive ice box system with a high flow core so no pumps or heat interchanges - just fill it with ice/dry ice (the tank will be vented and the core will be dry ice capable) do a run then open the drain to release any melted ice and then top up for the next run. Its all in the aid of keeping air temps down. One of the problems with our local track Meremere is that there is often quite big queues and long periods of sitting in pit lane in the baking

Yeah there are not many of them around but they do exist!

I know its great Another few pieces to the puzzle have arrived. Namely a new 40mm TurboSmart vband wastegate, TRD radiator cap, and the replacement magnacore spark lead (which took months to arrive...). Ive started on the merge collector but i need to order more bends and send the head flange file off to be cut before I can really get into making the new manifold. Here's the difference in the leads and why I needed a replacement 4 This thing has been taking most of my time lately... I wont bore you with photos but take a look at the facebook page if your interested (link

Looks on point! Needs a touch more low and it would be perfect!

Looking good!

Looks great! Another good engine option for you would be to combine your 5e bottom end with a 4e-c carb head (bit hard to find though) as you wont need to muck around with EFI wiring or plumbing and you'd benefit from the dohc head. Match that with some 4-2-1 5efhe headers and you would have an awesome little engine package. Good luck and keep up with the updates!

The TPS pick up is different pm the 4age throttle body, so if your using the stock ecu, you will need to adapt on the 4e/5e TPS somehow. The 4age TPS runs off "fingers" where as the 4e/5e TPS sits over the butterfly D shaft.

Awesome!

Few new parts are here. One reasonably expensive vband exhaust housing and the TRD valve springs.

Well its the off season here but changes are in the pipe line... like so: The turbo was the only item retained from the old setup and Ive wanted to make a change for a while so I advertised it and it sold within a few hours. The new turbo is here and I need to find some time to make a new manifold and drop pipe - hopefully before June 30 when the first Winterspeed event happens. So so busy currently building two very high power 5efte setups but hoping I can squeeze in some time before then.

It could be the water temp sensor but to be honest I have only had to change one in all the time ive worked on Toyota engines, instead I'd start with the basics like checking the leads/cap/rotor are ok. A corroded terminal inside the dizzy could be causing weak spark which with the extra post start/warm up enrichment could be blowing the spark out. Saying that though in my experience of tuning cold start and warm up enrichment, miss fire is usually due to lean running conditions, overly rich mixtures just make the engine bog and die rather than miss.

Changing the reg on a NA wont really make any difference to power - there really isnt any point changing it other than looks, especially on a factory ecu. If you had an aftermarket ecu you could use an aftermarket reg to lift the rail pressure which can sometimes aid in fuel atomisation which in turn can help with low manifold vacuum fuel burn. This (depending on how good the misting pattern is of your injectors) sometimes give you a bit more torque, but you'd need to reduce the fuel map to compensate for the extra fuel being delivered.

I would check that you have the dizzy plugged in correctly before looking at the circuit open relay, especially as you have had the dizzy out and it was working before. The ecu triggers the circuit open relay only when it senses that the engine is turning over, so if the dizzy isn't plugged in the ecu wont read any engine rpm so it wont trigger the relay/pump. Check to make sure the pin inside the plug and not too wide so they get a good contact with the dizzy terminals.

Easily

I install and tune ecus as part of what I do and have installed ALOT of Atom's (G4, G4+ and G4+S) over the years. Very very good entry level ecu's. They are not limited by processing power or resolution, but just have a reduced level of inputs and outputs and a few less motorsport features. They carry the same datalogging ability (via laptop) as the higher level variants and its works extremely well. I wouldn't worry about the Atom not having knock detection - as said above the tune will be setup using a detset and any tuner worth dealing with will setup at least basic compensation tabl