Stu

I use Redline Shockproof 75w140 - good in my experience

What happens if you unplug the tps? Revs stay the same or change?

With 4efte pistons on 5efhe rods you'll be fine at 1bar as long as the tune is good. High comp will also be fine as long as the tune is good - I have had several 5efte setups using stock internals myself - just conservative timing and don't rev them too hard (ie limit around 7500rpm). Injectors wise 550's would probably be slightly overkill but if you have them, use them. Gives you more scope for improvements later on.

COP has its advantages and in my experience its only disadvantages are in the requirements when setting it all up. Ideally you need to run an aftermarket ecu to gain the most out of them - in a perfect world an ecu with 4 ignition drives would be best so you can run sequential spark, however the coils work fine with two ignition drives in a wasted spark scenario. You could make them work with a stock ecu but you need to get quick tricky with dividing the ignition drive signals and it probably wouldn't be worth all the aggravation. Getting the tacho to work can be a touch tricky for beginners - best way is to run it direct from your ecu if possible and just change the resistor inside the tacho. The COP's themselves only have low level spark event outputs and you need to combine the signals so the standard tacho will show the correct reading but it is possible. So in my experience they've worked well and I've always experience strong spark even under some reasonably high load. I haven't experienced what they are like with longer dwell times but to date I haven't had to extend the times as they've performed well. Another obvious advantage is the lack of spark transfers ie king lead, dizzy cap/rotor, spark leads. Less things to go wrong? COP runs perfectly using the stock trig gering in the dizzy so no need to change anything triggering wise. In my own car my ecu has an inbuilt oscilliscope and the standard 24tooth and sync triggers supply a nice clean signal with the lowest level of filtering - admittedly I have all new wiring right thru but the signal itself is good.

Are you welding fittings onto the stock cover for the breathers? If so bigger is better so -10 or -12

Check the part number on the side - type that into google and it will more than likely tell you what they are

Wow didn't know that, thats actually pretty awesome for security when you think about it athough you could always open it in a dark room with IR goggles if you were super keen.

All of those sensors share the same sensor earth array fed from the ecu. I'd check the wiring and its pretty uncommon for the sensor to be faulty. Does it have a fcd on it by any chance?

Has anyone got a photo of a mines ecu open? From memory they run a new daughter boars with the main chip on that. If so its possible the chip can be removed to be reflashed but you'd no doubt have to crack the Mines/Toyota encryption and you'd need to have someone who knows what they are doing as Toyota use fuzzy logic in their programming I've heard.

Yep thats it, make sure its up to temp

Might pay to check how the fan relay and the triggering is wired up, is it still the stock unit? Just sounds like its switching the wrong way - from memory the stock EP82 triggering side of the relay is setup as absence of earth = fan relay on (ie either sensor up to temp or unplugged) and EP91 are the opposite. Could be that the sensor is a EP82 unit (cuts earth when up to temp) but its running to a EP91 relay which would mean the fan works in opposite and stops when its at temp.

They're 8.9:1 bottom ends in the above cars. Mine is completely different. Had the engine cranking over yesterday to build oil pressure and check a few things. Getting closer.

Both are built ze bottom ends. Will take 20psi plus all day every day. No not quite right, my turbo is larger, remember I said it was loosely based and ive got different wheels/machined covers etc. The T4 frame is possibly comparable to tdo6 thou obviously older technology. The 20g front wheel might be comparable to the stock front wheel. Remember the t4 family has a huge number of variants. Yes the tdo6 is from an evo 9 I believe. Its a reasonably match but drops off boost ever so slightly between gear changes specially 3rd onwards. Will retune when the owner is ready.

Loving the fact your sticking with a 2et! Good work

Sorry no idea on pressure, maybe google the part number thats on the top of the reg. Back in the day when we had zero money or less but still wanted to modify cars, we used to knock the top down on the stock fuel regs with a hammer to raise the line pressure. Down side is you can knock them too far or they can split if your not careful but it used to work.

You need to have the water temp sensor plugged in for the ecu or it will run as described above if at all.

Thats a pulsation dampener, has nothing to do with fuel pressure.

Have cleared the decks a bit with only two projects here now (EP82 and AE92) although a EL31 4efte loom c - onversion is due to turn up shortly which will tie me up for a day or two. Everyone loves photos so here's a couple of the recent cars: AE111 Blacktop 4agte - Wired in a Link G4 Storm, got running and street tune. Owner needs to sort some stuff before bringing it back for a proper tune. Should be a strong setup once is all finished. AE101 Wagon Blacktop 4agte TDO6-20g - Firmware upgrade from Link G3 to G4, setup high/low boost and antilag/cyclic idle switch, tidied up the Link idle control which works brilliantly now, quick street tune check to 12psi, goes well. Most of the way through the wiring on my car now, taking time to get everything they way I want it. Still a few things I'd change given more time but have some pressure on to get it running.

Tidy! I like it

You made it I see! Hows that car coming along Del?

Grey connector by the fusebox

That engine was just a standard TurboS 2e-telu with stock oil relocator. Was 10+ years ago now - had so many I can't remember. That manifold was for a tdo4 from a wrx from memory - I didn't make that one, a mate did. My first 2et (15 years ago?) was an ex rally car engine and ran 20psi on a hybrid ct12 on a modified stock ecu with a Link additional injector controller and a fcd. Also ran another 2et with a hybrid ct9 with vf8 front wheel using a previa ct9 front cover which is thicker so had more meat to mill out to make room for the vf8 front wheel. 2et's are ok, the pistons are strong but the heads just don't flow enough and they don't like big revs. The rockers break on them if you rev them too much - common issue on all the e series 12v engines. I used to be in contact with a guy in Australia that ran a 2et in his Cynos with a GTiR .80 T28 turbo at something stupid like 28psi. Sounded cool but didn't make that much power. Rectangular tube is horrendous!

Here's some ideas for the ports. Please don't use rectangular tube.

Try RS Components

Know anyone with a wideband?