Stu

Post up a photo of one in a stock fitment please

Why dont they run them from the factory then? Sorry not trying to be a dick but you really dont want to run anything between the map sensor and the inlet. Any slight restriction can effect the map readings.

Why would you need to run one? Main air filter should pick up any impurities Why would you need to run one? Main air filter should pick up any impurities

As above, idle ahouldnt be an issue. My 4agte has 800s which are not thar huge but idle is perfect

Use a donut style bosch knock sensor which is pretty common on nissans, then shielded cable back to a small 12v amplifier (ebay) into a set of headphones. Works perfectly. You can alternatively use a aligator clip instead of a knock sensor, just glue a small mic unit into the aligator clip and heat shrink over it. Shielded cabling is a must.

Larger spring fitted - holy crap...

Is it still the standard KP diff? Or upgraded to T series? T series is ideal if you can, or even a G series from a Hilux but you'll need to shorten it. Just to confuse things theres two axle sizes for T series diffs too. With the T50 box, just check the output spline count - 22 spline is the larger and stronger variety, they also do a 20 spline which while still way stronger than a K50 isn't as good as a 22 spline.

Seems easy enough then - EP71 is imprinted into the firewall but don't think they'd pull you up on that. Can't wait to see the build! Did you end up getting those cranks from Spartans?

Looking good dude - what the bottom end specs? If you need any 4age advice yell out. Sorry i havent read it all but what diff are you running? The T50 gearbox is a good choice as long as its the larger spline version. I've driven a couple of KPs with W5* boxes and they just feel too heavy (they needed it for the power they were making) but the T50s feel crisp. Another option later down the track is the 6 speed from an Altezza - a mate of mine is making the adapter kits.

Yep have used 560cc evo injectors and ballast resistors on quite a few builds ive done

I've never used a tubing system - always electronics

Ok here is a run from this afternoon - 1st gear through to nearly the top of 4th ~ 7700rpm before backing out (should really try and work out how fast it was) Air temps started at 21 degrees and peaked at 27 degrees which I think is pretty good for a hot day although don't have any other logs to compare it against. Figured out why it was feeling soft up top and it happily winds to the 8500 limiter now. Still needs lots more timing so more to come. Will swap in the larger wastegate spring tomorrow all going well.

Its just the underbody brace that I fitted ages ago and have now taken back off - its still stock other than that. Will remake it at some point. The temps are no way near 160 - I ran a really long log the other day pulling through 1st to the top of 4th which I am trying to find. Hopefully will go for another test run today - been mucking around with the trigger arming voltage to tidy up a tiny miss its developed.

Ah yes your correct - will amend my post above. Should remember my uni physics and the laws of thermodynamics, air intake temps don't get below ambient. In automotive scenarios that's really only possible with a water/ice to air intercooler setup. Just spent some time looking back through the logs while I type this and its obvious I should really concentrate before I press post haha. Have been looking at so many logs I was quoting from a different days. Unfortunately I currently don't have an ambient air temp sensor setup (just AIT) so its not easy to compare the two other than from feel or the weather on the news. I will try and find a good log for a long run and post it up. The temps don't rise very much and drop back down pretty quickly.

So do you have to run an actual EP70 or can you just make it look like a 70 but still retain the 71 body tags?

Haha yeah i'm in lane 2 and Ned was on the return road - cool car that one, has a 7k in it. Air intake temps are really good. Yesterday while driving around the ambient temps were high 20's and probably actually in the 30s on the road surface but air intake temps were close to ambient. It was super hot on the drag day and you get a bit of heatsoak waiting in the queue but by late 2nd gear they are back down sub 20 degrees which is pretty good. I've got some IAT based timing adjustment tables that pulls a touch of timing and adds just a touch of fuel to cool the combustion charge temp but they don't come into effect till 30+ temps. Until I log some super hot days and can log some runs its a bit hard to know where to adjust - have just set them up as fail safes at the moment. No torque steer what so ever at this stage - might be different with a bit more power but currently its very easy to drive with only one hand on the wheel. With the old setup and ~200kw at the wheels I wasn't experiencing any major torque steer so hopefully this setup is the same.

Back of the block between the water pump and starter - on the cylinder wall is the best place.

Use a donut style knock sensor and just run the signal into a small 12v amplifier into some headphones.

Yeah lots of systems prime the pump (my car does this via the Link ecu), but just about all only run the pump when either the ecu sees triggering or (for vehicles that have them) the air flow meter registers air flow.

Bit of an update now I've had it at the track. As previously mentioned I managed to get a bit of a road tune on this thing with the help of my co-pilot KPR and we ran it in a bit at 6psi and 8000rpm. Not alot of timing dialed in so there's a bit to go. Did 60km or so of run in and nothing blew up majorly (except having to rip the lower brace off, raise the car and the tps falling off), so dumped the oil and took it to a drag day at Meremere for a hiding. Unprepped track and took a bit to remember how to drive (was I ever any good?) but managed a 14.01 @ 104mph which isn't too bad considering I was rusty/useless. Definitely a 13 in it without touching the boost - need to a) learn to drive it (less rape spec launches), b)setup the suspension better and give it more than an eyetrometer alignment, dial in more timing so it doesn't go like a wet blanket up top. Felt really soft in the higher gears and subsequently when driving it around its developed a miss from 6000rpm so there's still some fettling to do. Pretty certain its dwell time related as its only at 2.2ms from 6000rpm and drops away more as the rpm increased. Will swap in the bigger wastegate spring once the miss is sorted.

Shame about the wiring! Next time I can build you one to send over. Cars both look great though! !!

No worries. Its done in part as a safety feature so that if you have a crash and piece a fuel line with the key is still on it doesn't pump fuel all over the place

The factory ecu triggers the pump when it senses the engine is cranking - no pre-prime with the factory ecu.

Looks awesome!