Stu

Yep 5speed will bolt straight in, cv's will all fit etc. 2et will physically bolt in but you will need to either modify the turbo s engine loom to suit your carby chassis, or swap the whole lot over from a donor turbo s. You'll also need the fuel tank and lines (or run a surge tank and lift pump etc)

Looking good!

No the engine water temp sensor is earthed to the sensor earth pin from the ecu - the radiator fan temp switch and the dash guage sensor use earth from the housing.

If you give it a big rev up then cover the carb with your hand on decel, does the smoke get worse/better?

Oh bugger, they're really common to find over here

What are you specifically trying to do/fix?

Standard turbo? If so, take the hi/low boost line off the actuator and see what it runs then - it should run 11psi or so.

Air lock is definitely a possibility - if you've replaced the sensor with a new genuine unit then it could be either wiring or ecu.

Find an old ecu and chop the plugs out of it - i've done this many many times

560cc evo injectors will do the trick and easy to get hold of

Take the cover off the ecu. Pin ids are printed on the board

IHI RHB5's bolt straight onto the stock manifold but the oil lines and drop pipe need changing to fit. Pretty strong turbos and bb too.

No photos from my car but Morgey will be glad to know I've finished and tuned the EP82 now - hopefully onto the dyno this week to see how much power it isn't making... My car wise, fuel reg and gauge is here, I've machined the fuel rail extrusion, bought some fittings. Need to do some finishing work on the inlet then I can mount the rail and plumb it up.

Wide band free air calibration - dependent on the controller your using there are a couple of different ways of doing it.

EDIT: Sorry, actually a shit quality photo when looking at this on the laptop rather than phone. Disregard.

Not familiar with the gizmo unit but i've always set them up like this: Bottom fitting > compressor cover Top fitting > boost control solinoid > compressor cover

Yeah thats way too rich on idle - basically when I'm setting up new ecu's I lean them right out for idle and cruise (unless its got crazy cams etc) - 15's are about right. You can muck with the ignition maps so the idle sits in a slight ignition map 'hole' and if the revs drop then add more timing to bring the revs back again.

Oh man its a shame I'm not over there, I've got heaps of left over ecu's you could butcher. Do you have any electrical component sales companies over there? I just did a google search and http://www.maplin.co.uk/ came up as suppliers of diodes?

Not sure on how easy they would be to find over there but evo 560cc injectors have a very good mist pattern and I've used them with good success in quite a number of cars

No worries, all the best

They are high impedance injectors so wont need ballast resistors but you will need to retune to suit

It should say in the manual which one you can use - possibly the software is the inhibiting factor so all 4 can't be used. You will be able to trigger a relay without any issues using an injector drive - most aftermarket ecu's max those channels at around 2amps (not that you should run it that high - its why ballast resistors are used). Relay wiring for a standard bosch unit: 30 - 12v load feed to relay which supplies the output (fused feed) 86 - Switched ground trigger from ecu 85 - 12v feed for trigger (no output load - just tee this into the 12v feed as long as its controlled

I mounted the pump on a bracket under the passenger side chassis rail just forward of the gearbox mount - was pretty much as low as I could get it. Mine was only a cheap setup so I used a factory system from a turbo Subaru Legacy wagon which I think are also called Libertys? I think I paid $60 for the whole setup including some new piping and hose clamps. It was probably 10 years ago at least so don't remember all the details just that charge cooler was over the gearbox. It was really easy to fit from memory, just customised the charge cooler entry pipe and the rest was simple. Original

As above, I've ripped these off turbo diesel engines and makes quite a difference.

I've done this before but its a bit hit and miss - sometimes they are too far gone. Usually the main control chip isn't damaged but a resistor or cap will take the hit. Take the lid off and see if you can identify which ones are burnt out (hopefully its not a series of tracks burnt out as this is much harder to fix). You may be able to replace the resistors if you can identify which ones they are.