Stu

Ah and they don't have adjustable hub heights? I haven't played with Teins but that seems like a bit of a short coming. Another option would be to shorten the shock piston - any machine shop should be able to do that in a lathe and cut you a new thread. That way the spring perch can be lowered and the shock still stays in the same compression zone. I've done this a few times

Have done this heaps of times. CT9 will be fine on stock 5efhe compression (don't need to open the engine) and stock ecu and stock boost. They do go slightly lean (13:1) as they come on boost but richen up by the time its on song. Biggest thing to check is that its not detonating so get a detest and wideband and have a listen while your testing - be conservative with the timing and it'll last for ages - maybe go to a 7 heat range plug. Top mount definitely wont help thou so I'd recommend a front mount, even if its a cheap Chinese core off ebay or something. As above, keep the boost down a

Yeah spark check is first port of call, followed by checking the injectors are working and their is pressure at the rail. Might be a fuel pump crapping out - just had a couple through for customers with similar issues and its been the pump both times.

If you lower the spring perch the shock gets compressed till the spring hits the perch again - thus reducing its operating range and causing potential for shock failure. If you can, lower the hub mount instead. It depends on the style of coil over you have and if its front or rear your talking about. Fronts generally are threaded right through the hub so are easy to lower, rears are not so easy - may even have to turret the rear 50mm or so if you can't get struts short enough. Its not that hard to do.

Sure its not the revs dropping low due to the brakes being on and the actual oil pressure dropping low? I had a similar issue on a customers EP82 who was running really thin oil and not a lot in there. Oil change with good oil and adjusted the idle back up to 900rpm and it was solved. Just an idea anyway

Super tidy - like it!

Turbo D would be awesome!!! Wind the fuel pump up for mega smoke and run a 3inch exhaust with no mufflers - would sound awesome (and probably go pretty good too!)

Thanks dude

Big job but would be cool - have seen one here, but didn't get finished

Check the water temp sensor is plugged in too - often if this isn't properly connected it wont start or will foul the plugs

Nice car dude! Being the limited, did the original seats have the speakers in them? Keep up the good work

Best I did was over 3 days including painting the engine bay - do a few more and you should beat that easy

Yeah that pipes pretty close! Can't move the radiator over a touch and slide it up next to the headlight instead? (Probably a bite late). Looking sweet thou! Obligatory skids video required!

I had a TRD set years ago, but at the time couldn't be bothered ripping the box apart so it never got used. Moved workshops a few times and the box went missing - wish I had it now!

Yeah EP82 and EP91 have opposite sensor configs (normally closed vs normally open)

Have lowered quite a few - Makita one way adjustables have been used quite often, or sometime dewalt one way adjustables.... But yeah, have fitted springs/shocks/coil overs to them heaps, its all fairly simple.

I've run a 5efhe on a 4efte ecu for a while as I didn't have a 5e ecu at the time of first setting it up. Ran ok but obviously over fuelled with the 4e injectors. Eventually swapped out for 5efhe ecu and injectors. There is minor changes, mainly the idle up solenoid pin is used as the acis solenoid on the 5e ecu. I would suggest quickly popping the cover off both ecu's and double checking the pin id's are the same (shouldn't take more than 10mins). I've wired ALOT of 4e's/5e's and have come across the occasional late model EP82 loom that has the same plug config but slightly differe

Pretty surprised its not the idle up under the throttle body to be honest, I've fixed a lot of these and its generally that. You may have a vac leak somewhere. Take each vac line off and inspect the lines for cracking? So you've checked the idle up solenoid at the drivers side end of the inlet manifold? And the air con idle up that is plugged into the throttle body?

Cool, interesting info, thanks.

Steelies looks rad on the EP. What's the size of the rims and tires, whats the ground clearance like?

Just block it into the inlet, see what happens.

I realise its fuel pressure dependant, just saying that 1000cc injectors seem overly large and even at lower fuel pressure (~higher duty cycle) I'd be interested to hear what duty cycle guys are hitting. Just out of interest more than anything. As an example one of my old 4ag setups ran 550cc injectors at stock rail pressure and 82% duty cycle and made 300hp at the wheels.

What sort of duty cycle do they max at on a 4e? I'd be guessing even a crazy hp engine wouldn't be close to making them out?

Yeah that could possibly be it. Temporarily block that pipe off to the inlet manifold and see if it improves, if it does then that's the issue.