00joeindastarb0

As stated above need both of these as they arent present on my engine for some reason

Most places will empty it for free or a small fee. You can do it yourself but if anyone reports you it can carry a heavy fine as its harmful to the enviroment.

Your using ARPs and forge pistons go by the paperwork supplied with them for torque and ring gaps.

I would have changed the stem seals myself its a straight forward job no point in paying someone else to do it. Invest in a parallel and emery paper so you can achieve a good finish on all mateing surfaces(not head, block) Have you deburred any of the assembly?

Did he diagnose the headgasket being at fault before work started or was this the sellers word? Its obviously good practice to give the head a recondition while its of as its not to much of a task but did you agree for him to do this? What was the actual work you employed him to do would be the first thing to make clear. Anyway it looks as though it will be coming apart again and there no cheap way of doing it if you want the engine to remain reliable for sometime. Once the pistons are out you can assess their condition and the bores properly, you may get away with honning the bores and fittin

Where are you based?

What are peoples thoughts on the pricing of this, I could put a few hundred into it to get an Mot, Tax and the bumper sorted but I dont think I will get it back.

Cant be 100% on the dexron rating got five litres from halfrauds and used just over three I think.

I just removed the sump plug and dropped it, then refill through the dipstick haven't had any problems

For sale:1995 Toyota Starlet GT turbo Auto Item Condition:Used drives great Price and price conditions:£1295 Extra Info: MOT 23rd May 2013 TAX End Oct 2012 95,000 miles Some history and import docs Mechanically Owned the Car since last October it has had 3 owners Since owning the car I have changed: Plugs, Leads, Oil, Autobox fluid, Coolant, removed aircon, fitted exhaust, Decat, Frontmount, Both aux belts, thermostat, fuel fiter, resealed sump, rear engine mount, front brake pads Bodywork Very good slight laquer fade, scuff on front bumper which has been touched up and small dent on the ns wi

I thought about this as it is done when build cossy YB's and seems to make some improvement, whether it will be worthwhie when you can get forged rods for 300 depends on the cost which I havent looked into.

Have you double checked linkages? and has the slave cylinder rod got enough travel to fully disengage the clutch?

The front two will fit but I am not 100% on the rear gearbox mount but will be trying one in the next month.

Lovely car mate and good result but arent you going to push it some more, or whats the point of going for a 30.

Will you be doing any CT9 setups

Marc I'm interested if john doesnt have them, let me know please

That's a shame, saves me a long journey anyhow was it not even worth an offer then?

Looks tidy have been keeping an eye on it to see if it goes for the past week, I want it but won't have the cash til next week so don't mess about if you want it. :harhar:

Are you going to reply to my message? I would like to know whether you realised you were selling me a set of wheels that are completely useless to me.

Harry can you contact me please

I'm interested in the peak racing wheels can you pm me a contact number. Not far from you so would I be able to collect on Friday if possible.

Where do you buy your paint from and will it always come with instruction.

It will cost you twenty pound to have the flange spun round sasha has always made his kits to suit his own exhausts it's not really a major problem you should have requested it to fit all exhaust systems.

How did they cause so much damage fitting the pins they are a floating design aren't they where as standard is semi floating

Your've really transformed this GT mate its going to look mint. What clutch are you running with the hybrid