Sam44

It's booked in on the 21st January 2021. Im due to fly home on the 5th all going well it's booked in local to fleetwood. I do have a second home near work in Oxfordshire, were I'm building a gt, so nice to know. Tidy figures, let's see what she does. I can get it dynoed at TD also after on the same setup to do a Dyno comparison. I'd really like to meet these lads I'm a big fan.

Absolutely they have done there work. I also must comend the young Daniel a uni under graduate student at present on his 3rd year placement with us. ho has done most of the fueling and ignition alteration (on the map) and has shown me a few handy tricks.

Roller dyno, but I can look for a hub dyno. It's on 195 15 rainsport tyres very good condition all set correctly g60 box run in 4th gear Cusco lsd. 7psi boost What's your estimate. I'll get all the relative info. I'm just interested if there could be a surprise factor here. As I'm very new to the car it keeps surprising me every time we advance things. It's good to get a take on it from an experienced person. Just a bit of fun.

Nice research. I did wounded about the pumps the units I've removed are a light gray on top were as the glanza pump I have is black on top. I did wonder on the pumps. Although I do know that curtain parts have been discontinued so a new pump is always a good thing. It's not really a case of going lean, while using a uprated pump the delivery will always be there or there abouts. Its to make sure I'm able to get the most from the system removing errors (pressure waves) close to the injectors. As well as a fail safe for low fuel in tank cornering surge. As these can take corners a speed. So what do we think if this was just normally asperated these engine mods would make and what hp would we expect to see disregarding the twin pumps. Just out of interest turboed. The only mod on the turbo is a ported exhaust housing. As we have just swaped the cha complete with compressor housing. It's a second hand unit that's in ok condition fairy old. I'll do a turbo comparison with the hyb turbo very shortly after.

No. I've done A very many turbo swaps and turbo conversation on most makes and models of vehicles mainly engine building. My work takes alot of my time up and has done for many years. I'll use the engines to rebuild a GT MK1 shell I have. Get some pictures up of your E11. The corrolla has always been very underestimated.

The 4efe pumps are different to the 4efte units (smaller). I'm just out for the best I can get from a 4efe+t as well as enjoying building all these proformance items like the turbo and gearbox and other basic systems to a level I'm happy with. The starlet is a very basic production vehicle. You just have to look at the battery to chassis earthing lead & point to see what I mean. This is just 1 of many things. I tell you what I'll put the standard td04l threw first at .5bar and see what she does. I'll let the development do the talking. People can make there own minds up.

Looking into the corrola gearbox you have I would run this on the 4efte rather than the turbo box, that's if it comes with the box. The reason is the corrola box has a closer gear set and will not load the engine as much as you move up threw the box.

Oil pump swap. Not water pump. Your after a 4efte engine complete from a 1998 spec glanza v for the chance of a good condition engine. The earlier GT turbo engines are the ones I've bought and opened and are in need of referbishment. The ct9b that comes on this model will see a nice 190hp with a adjustable hks actuator set at around 1bar of boost pressure, and a ported out turbo waste gate to stop boost creep. The standard 212mm 4efte clutch will handle it and so will the engine. If you treat it right and don't abuse it, it will last. Things like launch control, fuel cut, rev limit bouncing these engines don't take kindly to. Saying this hard acceleration they can do over and over again. Ultimately it's up to you.

Fantastic, you got some. Really enjoying this site.

Yeh very high volume a 600lph. I do think the walbro original I'm running will be operating on its bypass alot of the time since the kemso units bypass does not seem to work.

Agreed we have a standard tdo4l unit on it at present as we have had issues with the td05 antisurge housing. The surge is higher but the egt and back pressure are a concern. The torque drop off after 4.5krpm is alot. It can be felt, the pulling power isn't there after 5krpm, and the egt steadily is on the up. The cast tdo4l 13t wheel and 12 blade turbine are alot lighter and spool very well it would be good to see a hl exhaust housing and a 11 blade turbine on this 1 in all honesty. It might get run on the Dyno with a standard tdo4l if I can't get back onit in time which I expect to see the difference in the torque output and drop-off after 4.5krpm. 4efe cam characteristics.

We are seeing the upper limitations of the zisco exhaust manifold at around 250hp predicted. as well as the 5efe inlet manifold but my god do thy produce good power under this hp limit.

Yeh he just just peaced them together for pic I've been onto him since 6am bless him. He's still half asleep. it's later in the evening were I am. Or should I say very early morning now. He also has just messaged saying he's getting wet lol. I really ow this young lad a pint after all his hard work.

Haha yeh I paid nearly £3000 for the car because of the engine work that had been carried out. I've almost replaced all the other components I got with her lol, but I've nearly copied all other mods relating to the original lads build with a few alterations, his build was setup for high rpm power/track use/gearing, my build is for low to mid power with as much torque in the rpm Range as I can get. Im very impressed with the little thing. I've been hastling him for all his Dyno graphs. he has also given me alot of advice as well as parts since purchasing the car, which was reshalled with a very low milage 5 door cd model as I like my creature comforts. I might add here that the 4efe is still running a factory composite head gasket, 4efe factory cast alloy pistons and 4efe UK ep91 thin rods. The rods at present are one of my biggest concerns with the hit of torque this turbo produces above 10psi. All these components are really very light compared to the stronger race replacement allowing the engine to rev/accelerate alot better.

On the single fuel pump idea, I believe not. it's the fact of running 2x good fuel pumps that reduces pressure problems, but I can't see why it would not work/ I've not run a single very high volume pump. I'm running 4bar fixed fuel pressure at present these old denso injectors will not flow/deliver any more fuel above this pressure. I might add here that at this increased pressure I'm very concerned about the service life of these injectors. The starlet electrical system that is a big pit fall as we recorded fuel delivery issues with the charging system under high load. We have fitted a high capacity battery, referbed later ep91 alternator (lighter in weight) and a sperate high amp circuit for the twin fuel pumps that returns to battery. As well as the very high kv race coil allowing us to increase the plug gap/spark surface area.

Of course. There is also ported head, stronger valve springs which do seal the valves alot better, as well as the hand worked engine removing alot of high friction/resistance areas, twin 57mm throttle, thermal gaskets used on intake system, water spray on the intercooler core, all in all reducing charge temps by upto 75% giving air density a kick in the right direction (we have found good mpg benefits of using increased air temps on Cruze conditions, so more development to come in this area). As well as low anertia items like flywheel clutch unit. Crank, front pully. Dan has also recently managed to get the ruff layout of the engine breather system and antilag control installed. So far increasing turbo spool nicely, much more to come from this. The hybrid tdo4l has really impressed me. Baby tdo5. But I followed the tunning guide handed to me with all the problem areas to get hp from. It's come good. Saving alot of time and money. Better injectors are needed and next year we hope to install the radiator in the rear using an electrical water pump removing the standard unit, also the corrola waste spark ignition to go in, oil cooler and thermo, but not before the Dyno results. It's the torque figures I'm interested in. @ around 160hp these cars are very very capable and to be fair there's nothing much in times to 100mph between 160hp and 200hp on the same gearbox and diff. So I can see why experienced runners would set power levels at the hp (also very safe) It's the torque that makes the difference here. What we have found threw testing is the higher hp levels you go the harder and more aggresive you have to launch/gear to hit the lowwer street time targets (0 to 60 mph)(40 to 100mph) almost killing reliability/service life of major components. unless a shed load of procise work is carried out. Dan is on with the suspension and brake referbishment as we speak.

Thanks for the replay. Are you running a ko4 turbo at present.

I'm really liking the wrap design. Nice styling. Did you get to the bottom of the power drop off. If I may ask what was the cam configuration on the first Dyno graph.

Thanks skinny. Your not far off our predicted hp going off the fueling. We have estimated just over 200hp. It's making relatively easy hp. Great spool also. I'm very impressed with this little engine. Opening it up it should work it's a bit of a mess of a combustion chamber/valve arrangement but it does.

Make way for electric. What a race. Really enjoyed this 1. https://youtu.be/2femix89pTE

Very jealous. Very cool cars.

Nice work.

The Toyota ct9 comes in the earlier GT turbo mk1,2,3. With the ct9b the better of the ct9 range coming in the glanza v. This ct9b main difference is a bigger exhaust turbine, it spools up slightly later in the engines rpm range (only around 250rpm difference on the ct9), but produces more torque (pulling power). It's entirely up to you what turbo/power levels your after. The ct9b can get you around 190-200hp on a standard 4efte with the correct supporting mods. This site has a stage tunning guide for you to follow. The hp capability of the standard engine (limitations) seems to be accepted at around 230hp, but that's a super healthy engine. I've recently bought 2x early 4efte engines and I've found the engine seals have hardened and started to crack. The cylinder bores have aged and glazed up to the point piston ring seal will be compromised. If you buy the engine unit complete you should get everything you need??!!. Fingures crossed. I'll post up pictures and products I'd get to complete the conversation. Bolt on standard 4efte required parts: Engine part's required for turbo conversation: 4efte exhaust manifold, oil filter relocation housing 4efte, sump later ep91 4efte the best option low corner surge, turbo with all turbo lines (coolant and oil), 4efte ep91 or ep82 exhaust system and down pipe (decat pipe). 4efte thermostat housing, 4efte flywheel and 212mm clutch or 200mm uprated 4efe unit, 4efte power steering pump with bottom pump to block mounting bracket and bolts, both low pressure pipe from the power steering reservoir and high pressure pipe from the pump to the steering rack 4efte, 4efte rocker cover, heat range 6 spark plugs 4efte. 4efte gray injectors 295cc will see around 220hp, piggy back ems. Intercooler and piping (4efte top mounted intercooler requires the factory bonnet scoop). to start the exhaust system build you could get 1 of these. This bolts to the ct9,ct9b and will need cutting and modifying in order to clear the corrola front engine/gearbox mount, but it has the turbo flange and piping to work with. For this price it's a bargain to work with. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mild-Steel-CT9-Decat-Downpipe-Toyota-Starlet-GT-Turbo-Glanza-V-EP91-EP82-4EFTE-/233330515233 you can see in the picture were the standard 4efte lambs/02 sensor goes in the decat/down pipe. If you want to use this for a wide band lamba sensor-gauge or your original 02 sensor will require it wiring extending to reach. other good items https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECUMaster-Digital-ECU-Tuner-3-DET-3-Piggyback-Unit-Controller-w-4-Bar-Map-/123802141374 easy to install around 6 to 7 wires. A very cheap and user friendly bit of kit. You should be able to find a tunning/rolling road shop to map this in to a 4efte conversation using your better waste spark ignition system. Fuel pump required: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WALBRO-255-FUEL-PUMP-FIT-for-toyota-STARLET-TURBO-EP82-EP91-NEXT-DAY-UK-ON-NOW-/153125021594 now I get my pumps and other critical parts from demon tweaks uk, the reason is to avoid any cheap/crap China parts into my life. These shitty China parts will cause you pain and you will end up installing these parts in your bin were they belong. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-52mm-Universal-LED-Turbo-Boost-Vacuum-Press-Pressure-Gauge-Meter-30-35-Psi-/254657208265 always a useful tool and a cool must have item. intercooler pipe kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-25-57mm-ALLOY-UNIVERSAL-DRIFT-KIT-RACE-CAR-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-HARD-PIPES-/352396022162 you will be able to get this to fit, the only other thing to do is either search for a ct9 bolt on hot pipe (this is the part of the intercooler kit that bolts directly to the turbo. Or use the kit and have a ct9 flange made (easy to do yourself) and weilded to 1 of the pipes in the above kit that has been cut to size. (You will have to cut down most of these pipes in the kit to fit. (Please clean them out before installing) what a ct9 hot pipe looks like, hdi make:

Yeh I'll fire them up. If you visit my build thread listed just under my user name you will find on the first page at the top a list of all bolt on mainly engine components that are needed to convert a 4efe engine to a 4efte. Make sure these come with the engine. The only thing I think I've not listed is the 4efte inlet manifold which houses the 4efte intake air temp sensor. Which will be needed. The 4efe sensor is located in the air box (it's no good here on a turboed engine) The sensors are different in looks but operate on the same resistance. What you will need to do is rewire your temp sensor plug onto the 4efte sensor (the plugs are different). If you also decide to keep the waste spark ignition system (use a piggy back controller) You will have to swap the oil pumps over from the original 4efe. This houses the crank position sensor. As well as use the original 4efe throttle body which uses veriable resistors throttle position sensor. The 4efte uses switch type. What turbo will you be using?

Agreed I'm going to give him a call on Monday. Is Dean rw developments? I need 1 of these