Sam44

thanks ive not been on this engine long but ive studied it for a year now talking to loads of experts on this Toyota e series engine. if you can keep and store your old engine it will come in handy, for example with slight working you can kit the inlet manifold you have on the corolla. this coupled with a ct9b (glanza turbo/4efte) will give you better set off torque and turbo spool up. also using the inlet camshaft with the turbo and 4efte inlet manifold will also supply similar results. the inlet manifold on the corolla will sell for around £100gbp on here.

ill stash this 1 away for abit, but if any one wants one its here. I got it from a Toyota breakers in Manchester. theirs a sr in there but not a lot left on it now.

great stuff yeah if you go back to the very early builds things went wrong quickly with the starlet community quickly getting a hold and to grips with the issues very fast. there's some outstanding builds on here. n/a and turbo and n/aturboed.

ive tried messaging you, but its not letting me. its for reduced back pressure/engine health benefit's/reliability.

from what ive been told all the ports can be opened out quite a lot. its the manifold to turbo flange area were the cast restrictions are.

get that manifold and waste gate ported out. sorry to hear about the turbo issues. with the tubular corolla inlet and the 4e cam this will be off the line onit, we are talking zero lag. the 4efte cam would be a good option giving so improvement in higher rpm torque.

now then, I do like this one, ive not seen one of these before, and a third brake light. ON THE HUNT!!. cheers pal.

your welcome. im enjoying helping, as well as the company im stuck in a hotel room at the minute. did you know the 4efte inlet cam is a good performance mod giving better mid to high end rpm torque, speed (pull). they are very easy to change out. you don't even have to remove the cam belt. it appears the difference in cam lift has only just been discovered recently, with only 2x other starlets running it. there are 2 different types of dtc (diagnostic trouble code) passive and active. its only the very serious faults that bring on the engine check lamp permanently.

thanks, ive got a glanza v boot spoiler and a gt turbo spoiler here also. the gt turbo unit is not far off the sr spoiler at all. was there any other boot spoilers?

waw thanks I believe they are getting rare now. its only a little thing

looking smart. very neat work on the blink code read out what you do is locate the obd socket under the bonnet and bridge out e1 and te1 terminals then count the flashes of the engine check symbol on your dash. the codes are all two digit codes. on the pipes on the throttle body there is only 2 to replace the air lines. these are on the far side of the underside of the throttle body that go to the steering rack. ill put up a picture.

the 2x pipes directly under the throttle position sensor, off center of the throttle body (on the left hand side 1x right angled pipe and 1x pipe at a 45deg angle off the throttle body) after you have refit the throttle body, do a blink code read out and see what fault codes if any are stored. you reset this by removing the efi fuse in the engine bay fuse board.

If I remember correctly it's a fairly large diameter pipe for a vacuum pipe. I'd just get some tubing/piping from the local parts shop. They normally sell it per meter. Take the old 1 along for a sample. You might want to put some jubilee clips on there

Do a fault code readout (blink code). And let us know.

Oh dear. I think the ride height is alittle low. Daniel hit the exhaust Flexi whilst setting up over the weekend. New longer Flexi on order. Does any body know were I can find gaskets for the early japspeed exhaust I've emailed them in the past with no reply.

file it were ever you like. try it you will see until then keep up the guessing games. its very easy to monitor mpg down to a small margin. here is alittle food for thought,fuel injection type early batch firing (could this heat also be used to help evaporate the fuel in the inlet that helps cool the valve head, like on most early single point injection and carb manifolds). The heat is there for a reason, and it might turn out to be an array of reasons. What we do know is heat affects air density, which in turn affects proformance, if it turns out this heat also affects fuel

ive just seen this now, sorry about late reply. haha yeh to do the turbo conversion first its important to check your engine is healthy anuff to accept boost pressure, these include things like a cylinder leak off test, compression test & hydraulic test (this test is also good to free off stuck carboned up piston rings). this car is very easy to work on and a fantastic beginners platform. Id estimate around 80 hours required to install and run low boost beginners level around 130hp and around 40hours in the competent hands of a mechanical technician. yeh you can run the sta

diesel works well then carb/brake cleaner to finish off and remove the diesel. the card and brake cleaner evaporate very fast so it can require 2 tins if you only use these. before you start up the engine after cleaning make sure there is no cleaner left in there.

what about radiation. just feel the throttle body then the adjoining manifold and make your own mind up. its hard to touch becarful, you will see a 2 to 3 drop in mpg if removed.

ive just picked up an sr boot spoiler for a bargin bin price and was just wondering how much would it be worth.

it sounds like you have a split pipe, check the pipes directly under the throttle body they go to your power steering rack. there should be 2x pipes. one goes to a pipe that's port is pre throttle flap this 1 should not affect idle the other connects to a pipe that's port is after/post throttle flap this is the culprit and will cause this issue you are explaining. there are 2x other pipes on the under side also these are coolant pipes to heat up the throttle to lean out the intake air density to achieve better mpg. you can remove these pipes from the throttle body and join them together u

as said ill check my drainage holes no point these aging prematurely.

yep yep and nope in hindsight a vg turbo is required, we are having some problems whilst hitting full boost (over 1bar) with intake temps. this is the reason we are developing the system at .5bar to bein with, as we modify/make the tdo5 anti surge compressor housing/shell to fit (this allows the turbo surge to be managed a lot better bringing 1 hell of a torque gain in the proses). I really didn't think the turbo would react the way it does. the thing about the mitsubishi turbo has allowed us to develop a very cheap turbo alongside this system, which to be honest ive copied off the previous

Yeh I've contacted afew breakers that have them but there not up for selling them separate. Alot of these engines now go for export, to Africa needing all there supporting systems. It appears they fit them in any shell.

Some interesting developments today on the starlet, the first day we have managed to take the car out for afew weeks. We have really managed to shake down the turbo lag/boost deliver system with great results. We have delivered additional hp/torque in the 2000 to 3000rpm band with reduced turbo lag on standard td04l unit. 3000rpm is the point boost pressure is delivered to the engine. We have also had to use the external waste gate to help regulate turbo rpm before peak boost to keep intake charge temps down (the turbo just wants to run away with its self) @ .5bar it's hitting an e