Sam44

Couldnt have said it better myself. Tunning developments are the guys with the know how, and years of experience. From my side I'd say a bigger turbo on low boost is better/safer than a smaller turbo on high boost at the same hp. Remembering the supporting mods which I'd definitely throw a set of ACL bigend shells in the list (high load bearings). Examples: ct9 against the tdo4l

Spot on a tdo4l on low boost provides really good power and fuel economy (160hp) reliable. The supporting mods are the most important thing cutting corners and rushing the build leads to problems and wasted time and resources. High hp cars are not for the road, I'm guessing this is why they sell up, there more for bragging rights or serious racers. There is definitely a way to tune these using mostly Toyota parts on a stock engine, and have a very capable street level setup. It's very hard not to get carried away.

Well said. I work in the aero space industry and quality control is every 1000 item with in 1 batch of material. This includes stress and impurity tests. For a production line motor vehicle it's every 100,000 item out of multiple different batches of materials from different sources. This is the reason part serial numbers are so important for recalled items. So yeh Luck of the draw stuff when you start quoting power figures over 100% on stock. It's this simple. The evidence is threw out this site.

http://upg-shop.com/product/1849/toyota-4e-fte-1-3-16v-piper-cams-fast-road-turbo-camshafts.html These look very interesting. These are great for street proformance. The speedvision cams are aimed at track proformance.

Yeh its crazy, and yep I've seen some fruity adaptation recently. I spotted it as soon as I saw the Dyno graphs and guest it to be just under 1mm the duration looks to be the same I'd guess at. It has been documented in this tuning guide Ive been given off the previous owner but no direct measurements. Another issue is indirect injection against cam timing and lift this is why batch firing suits the 4e just fine. Personally if I was going near 7krpm redline I'd go a slight increase in overlap with tons more lift on both cams. (Gtx20+ /tdo4) the valve head circumference (inlet&e

Yeh I'm not with the cams at present. I'm out of the country, talking to my coworker/mate ho is at the starlet doing some work on it. The idea is to get a full cam configuration on all cam sets. I'm also very interested in the durations/timing of all cams as the lift has been missed.

Yes the cam circle with out the cam profile is identical working to .1mm on vernia calipers. I will dti the cams in, and plot lift (mm) against duration (deg) on all to see if any other cams have been over looked threw out the years.

The lift difference between the UK ep91 4efe and 4efte inlet cam. 1st up 4efe 4efte inlet cam bellow. .8mm more lift on the 4efte unit. Which can clearly be seen on the Dyno graph torque peak and length. I'll update this with duration and other cams I have here (5efe, 5ehfe, gen1 JDM ep80, gen1 4efe E11 corrolla. After speaking with some of the older Jamaican lads in order to utilize the tubular corrolla inlet manifold and align it with this cam (to slow the torque drop off around 5.5krpm) holding the torque as high for as long as possible

Fantastic build.

Morning all. Because of work commitments over seas at present I'm not sure when I'll be back working on the starlet. So here are some videos I've been enjoying whilst I'm traveling across the Atlantic. Some of my favourite tracks to drive Istanbul probably my very favourite in either direction I really do not mind. For me it's like a mix up of spain, China & Belgium it's that good. Driving it reverse anticlockwise is a huge challenge for me to get right/fast. Turn 8 is a race killer. It's like Spain's turn 3 it will make or break you. I always

Really enjoyable build. Lots of hard work and ideas unfolding. I'm watching with interest.

Yeh Ryan as soon as I'm back from work this time round I'll get it sorted. I'm having problems messaging certain people only.

Lovely looking ep91.

Haha. Sleeper, sleeper, sleeper. Just try not to get carried away. It's incredible hard not to do.

It looks quite clean. What are your plans.

They are very cool cars the gt. Keep the updates coming. I've not seen many white 1s.

Thanks for sharing the development. It is a strange thing that has happened to the head gasket especially the fact the studs have loosened off. Have the studs stretch at all?. If so there's an underline issue.

You would be surprised. the head bolts on the standard engine are stretch bolt design. They really do not need to deal with any stresses other than the combustion process. It's just a thought to consider. I believe what's happed to your head gasket is a common thing with these after a rebuild (highly modified). I'm building a forged 5e and working through the issues/errors. Like the different length head bolts. I've decided to go with studs.

Yep the 4efe has the braces on the intake to the block and exhaust manifold to the block and the fte has the turbo to the block. The fuel rail information came from some of the lads that was pushing for 250hp+. The starlet I have came with a modified honda unit on it. Really enjoying the build I hope you get this sorted. Keep us posted.

Yeh the fuel rail is quite restrictive also. To me it looks like exhaust back pressure and temps plus high end valve overlap. But at your hp the fuel rail will start to show it's flow potential. The standard 4efe and 4efte has head braces either side of the cylinder head. The cylinder head were it bolts to the block is a wedge shape leading to shorter and longer head bolts!!. It's common to for these to have different torque settings in the proformance world plus the added weight of the new bigger turbo kit on 1 side of the head. Are the arp bolts stretch bolts. Do you do a warm up final

What's the wastegate size. Are you running the standard fuel rail.

Are you running any of the head braces used with the factory engine, and what engine mounts are you using. Did you get the engine deck skimmed/checked. Also which head gasket is this you have used, boost pressure and fuel pump. I can't see the rpm at which the hp starts to fall off?. For hp to be hit like this before 6000rpm I'd put my money on fuel delivery rates (fuel pump, fuel rail, filter) if it's the standard pump I'd try this first. If it's after I'd say valve bounce/wobble. Possibly I see you have uprated valve springs. The decate pipe after the turbo I'd

Pm sent.

I must admit these are pricey. VF prices tbf.

Thanks burty. I'm hoping to be back from work duties for a weekend soon (it's been a crazy few month since being back) to get alittle more done and hopefully start to get some development started on the dyno very soon. I'm starting back on a high intensity fitness routine to give me more energy for when im off work, so development does not stall before winter. This is the plan.