Sam44

Of course exhaust was wrapped and every thing, big respect, alot of well placed items, and using a ct9 hyb. I'd like to see what the 4efe cams and corolla inlet do to help spool this turbo. Did you see the aussi builds on ct9hyb I put up the other day. Very impressive figures with 1 standout graph looking like a 5efte ct9hyb graph or certainly a cammed 4efe 225hp/180ftlds constant pull. Epic find that build thanks for sharing. Figures crossed he fixed the issue.

Haha, no shit, yeh I was thinking the exact same thing it's for engine intake temp post turbo. I don't like saying it straight off the bat. But the temps will be totally different school boy error. Some great parts. I'm really liking the crank trigger as the cam belts on these do flex so to have a crank trigger on the cam ooooowww nasty. Especially if you've spent money on a fancy setup. Saying this he might be monitoring pre intake air temps separate leading to the design of the air filter position??. As well as engine intake temperature sensor on the ems. The rest of the setup says he's on to something.

I found this on the you tube. Can anyone tell me more about this build and if there is a Dyno graph. Fantastic approach as well as never before seen setup.

Not sure but if you ever rebuild an engine work all the edgings and trust surfaces and bearing surfaces by hand and to a high polishes ever cam followers. You will be surprised at how easily the engine turns by hand and will imagine the power gained. (Parasitic losses) any true proformance engine will be hand finishes, honda comes to mind and Merc.

Yeh production line items are not subject to as good as quality control as say aerospace or race car. The reason I'm very surprised at people pushing alot of the engine to crazy hp levels, and expecting them to last. I'd say imperfections in the material. The outer edges will be sharp (high friction) machine finished. This will find any weakness.

Yep 4efe.

Waw what a difference. Great work. I just checked my UK ep and there glass, I didn't realize the glanza were plastic (weight saving).

Nice find yeh that sounds about right. A 1.1mm plug gap is on the high side for a older 4efte external coil which I'd hope is slightly higher kv output against the small 4efe integrated coil which I had problems with when applying boost to the engine I found a .8mm plug gap was much better. Lowest I'd go is .6mm. From what I can see the tongs ct9 hyb turbo runs a Garrett T25 compressor wheel bigger. On the ct9 compressor housing coupled with the ct9a exhaust turbine and housing. I would expect it to flow more air at this pressure which i would guess at being comfortably with in its safe operating range. This tongs I have here has a billet aluminium wheel so not a standard tongs. The zisco ram's horn exhaust manifold : fairly narrow diameter runners promotes really good low rpm velocity helping the turbos spool up, but will have a negative affect on higher rpm high boost pressure power. that's only if you are aiming over 250hp. Other items like cam profile and inlet design are also balanced to bring the desired tune. I'll look for some turbo pressure graphs now to get a fix on this. As well as some Dyno graphs relating to ct9 hybrid's. I'm sure there are lots. 1 such build on here to watch is Brad's MK1 GT. He has a very well balanced tune using a ct9/td04 hyb on the 5ehfe cams and the acis manifold going on. This is 1 to watch. Ct9 hyb and tfo35 EPs are very capable setups. Here are some very good figures with setups. Ct9 hyb http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/12551-dyno-tune-sheet-of-ct9s/page-2 Look at the torque figures from this setup something is going on with the cams here the torque builds later and stays up longer. Very impressive constant pull. https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/dyno-on-stock-ct9-now-tongs-hybrid-what-manifold.107024/

I've just had a read threw very nice build. Lots of love and care put into this glanza.

Yeh I think either colour would look great on the wheels. Both the colours seem alive. There very dark in the shade, but when the sun or light hits them wow you can't help but look and look.

I'll look now. And yeh take your time. what you have there is a fantastic base. Your approach is measured and targeted from what I can see. If you do it right you will save money with well placed items, and no real need to go forged motor, high boost levels. The smaller turbos gives great throttle control no need to be aggresive. If you can tailor your boost to come in just after curz rpm. Say around 3krpm this engine sees very good mpg closer to 40, due to the fact the map sensor does not see boost pressure in stop start traffic (at this point it's not needed). The standard GT and glanza gearbox are to me over geared. To say the strick speed limit in Japan and the high mph ability of these boxes makes no sense. They load up the engine restricting acceleration which has been suggested to me the reason for there use Toyota knew these cars had the ability to become death traps given the power to weight. Boost creep kills engines!!!!.

Great choise. Speed vision billet are the biggest overlap and lift I can find but I think they still keep the engine none interference. The acis manifold will not really affect the ct9 b unless you use cams this is were this manifold comes into its own and why it was made the 5ehfe acis engine has some crazy overlap cams I'd say race spec, not what you find at all on road vehicles they make torque late in the rpm range and to the 7krpm red line. The acis manifold is to help the low rpm torque by increasing air Velocity (vetec basically) and darn good from what I've seen on graphs. The manifold needs the cams tbh. There designed for each other. Unless the acis is used on a big turbo to hit over 300hp the manifold will help bring a better daily drive. A td04l 13t, using a good external gate (not eBay gates), using the cams and acis manifold would be very good couple this with a sixspeed box and you ain't getting beat on the street. And that would be at boost levels safe for a standard engine around .8bar id estimate around 190hp with some kick ass torque. But it's the power graph that you will feel 5e levels. Hunting speeds down easily. Another option would be a tongs ct9b (most hybrid's I've seen use the ct9a smaller exhaust port/housing, the ct9b is bigger producing better torque) on cams and the acis very very similar to the td04l setup the bigger exhaust turbine will delay spool but increase topend torque by reducing exhaust back pressure. I'm hoping the ct9b option would spool earlier but both should pull till Redline and make good hp on relatively low boost. I've recently felt a 5e on a Garrett gt17 sixspeed lsd using 5ehfe acis cams. Scary fast motorbike speeds. Constant pull it does not stop pulling hard. The gt17 is basically a ct9 sized turbo I'm not even sure if it's ball-bearing.

Fantastic approach. Like you say very low wear (rounding of the electrodes) which can accelerate on the platinum plug because the spark normally contacts the same point on both surfaces. Measured and all makes sense. This turbo is here if you are interested I could get it sent to a turbo place near me at some point and checked over. I'm in no need of the money or rush to sell it. Would just like to see it go to a good home on a build like yours. This with cams would be something. Ill keep hold of it hoping 1day your interested.

Not much wrong with the atomisation I'd say the boil off looks very low very clean. Boil off can be seen on the 2x center plugs on the earth electrode, dry & brown in colour tells me possibly oil vapour. Now you have a catch can fitted see if this changes over 6 month of running if not possible valve stem seals. I'm stuck in between the 2xdifferent plugs at the minute. The platinum can be a problem with much higher cylinder temps also. With you being on stock boost on a cooler plug than standard factory it's looking good. pretty even cylinder temps tbf. I'd say you could drop a heat range for better proformance, as you would expect to see. If you start to increase boost levels things will become clearer especially since you have started to read these plugs that are looking to be in a happy place. Most of the builds I'm seeing and having experience on are running either .9 to 1bar of boost common supporting mods. This starts to bring the engine out of its working parameters. This is the first very close to standard factory high low boost that I've seen the plugs on. If you get me. Believe in what you are seeing as you tune you will see things change quickly and now you have a base to work from. Do you know the factory plug number by any chance dutchie. My working outs I'd say it should be a heat range 6 but id be very interested in seeing. Every 1 I've see now around 8 motors are all running 7 and 8 heat ranges and all I'd say could run a 6 in some cylinders.

Could the follower cap be dancing side to side and slapping the lobe maybe. It is very interesting. Maybe an unrefined casting mold if they all like identical. And yeh if you are on a ct9 b set of race high lift cams would kick ass big time. The feel of a tdo4l with great spool. I have a tongs ct9 a billet wheel at home I just got on an old MK1 GT engine. The lad didn't even know it was on the engine he know nothing about the GT turbo if you are interested in it, zero shaft play looks clean This with a set of race cams ooww next level with not alot changed. I think it's on a standard ported 4efte exhaust manifold also it looks smooth open and different from another manifold I have there.

That's what I'm thinking. All the cams I've got have these marks but on reflection thy are just on the ramp edge (contact edge) like you say so it would be more that there is imperfections/air& contamination in the outer edge of the mold getting onto the casting. I've just looked over your pictures and you are right it's only on the contact part of the cam lobe. With this being a productions line item machine finished (not hand finished) the cam edging will have sharp high friction edges helping find the weak points.

No mate I've got lots of stock cams with the same casting imperfections. Basically air pockets in the casting mold.

Above post updated my friend, edited. Am I right in thinking these the 4efte come with a heat range 6 plug. I'd definitely give it a go, if you are on stock boost pressure you can try copper core plugs (cheaper) and recheck the plugs after 2weeks of running. The cooler plugs have a longer reach into the cylinder (closer to the piston crown) this helps improve flame propergation quite a bit on these. If you see better mpg and feel better power as well as we see better cylinder temps then at the present tune run a heat range 6 plug, and invest in a platinum tip 6 range plug. I'd say these are the wrong plug for this state of tune. Also check your ignition timing using a strobe, and carry out a blink code readout.

What kind of milage do they do a month. What's your setup dutchie. What's the NGK iridium number on the plug. If possible just from looking at the plugs I'd drop a heat range but if the car is run on idle alot it's just choke running (cold start as well as unloaded conditions). Hardly any wear on the electrodes. looks like the right 1 is the hottest working to the left getting cooler which normally equates the right 1 being cylinder 1. This can normally be seen all over the plug but on these I'm looking at the earth electrode and the base outer ring (were the plug threads are this is the coolest part of the plug and should be clean from carbon but this area gives away cylinder temperature the most. The blacker it is the cooler the cylinder. Are you running the standard engine breather system this relates to the 2x different colours of the center plugs 2&3 more brown with alittle cement boil or crust this is either poor fuel atomisation or oil vapour. My gess is oil vapour, wear the standard engine breather fouls the 2x center cylinders.

I'm loving Mazda candy Apple red (soul red) at the minute or BMW m4 burnt orange (sunset orange). These are the 2x colours I'm stuck at for the full paint on the starlet. White wheels always look good or a light gray. So many options haha.

Very cool wheels. Nice brake upgrade.

Yeh, this was explained to me by the original owner of the car. Ho gave me a full tuning guild with specs and information he obtained since 2008. I'll message you now + post some pictures of the difference on the micrometer. As I explained on GT turbo site in the graph you can see it's obvious. Not sure were other tunners had there heads/eyes. I can't find 1x post of a 4efe knowingly using the intake cam and it's a perfect match for the late corrola inlet

Yeh me to I've just gone threw the thread very smart build.

Yeh I'll put a picture up. look on Toyota GT turbo site I've explained the 4efte and 4efe Dyno graphs. it's obvious on that, but to confirm I'll get my micrometers on both sets I've got in Fleetwood and post it. I've measured alot of the cams the 5ehfe, 5ehfe acis intake, 4efe ep91 4efte so far have different cams with the exception of the 5ehfe acis having a different exhaust cam as well. I have yet to measure the gen1 corolla 4efe and the gen1 ep80 gi which I have in the engines at home ready to come out. The 4efte inlet cam adds around 1500 more peak torque in the rpm range on the 4efe drops out very fast around 4500rpm zero valve overlap. It's very noticeable hunting the 70 to 120mph speeds alot better.

Humm, yeh to say there not ever a great spec I'm puzzled about the sr, It does sound cool SR. shame it didn't come with higher power.