Sam44

Of course exhaust was wrapped and every thing, big respect, alot of well placed items, and using a ct9 hyb. I'd like to see what the 4efe cams and corolla inlet do to help spool this turbo. Did you see the aussi builds on ct9hyb I put up the other day. Very impressive figures with 1 standout graph looking like a 5efte ct9hyb graph or certainly a cammed 4efe 225hp/180ftlds constant pull. Epic find that build thanks for sharing. Figures crossed he fixed the issue.

Haha, no shit, yeh I was thinking the exact same thing it's for engine intake temp post turbo. I don't like saying it straight off the bat. But the temps will be totally different school boy error. Some great parts. I'm really liking the crank trigger as the cam belts on these do flex so to have a crank trigger on the cam ooooowww nasty. Especially if you've spent money on a fancy setup. Saying this he might be monitoring pre intake air temps separate leading to the design of the air filter position??. As well as engine intake temperature sensor on the ems. The rest of the

I found this on the you tube. Can anyone tell me more about this build and if there is a Dyno graph. Fantastic approach as well as never before seen setup.

Not sure but if you ever rebuild an engine work all the edgings and trust surfaces and bearing surfaces by hand and to a high polishes ever cam followers. You will be surprised at how easily the engine turns by hand and will imagine the power gained. (Parasitic losses) any true proformance engine will be hand finishes, honda comes to mind and Merc.

Yeh production line items are not subject to as good as quality control as say aerospace or race car. The reason I'm very surprised at people pushing alot of the engine to crazy hp levels, and expecting them to last. I'd say imperfections in the material. The outer edges will be sharp (high friction) machine finished. This will find any weakness.

Yep 4efe.

Waw what a difference. Great work. I just checked my UK ep and there glass, I didn't realize the glanza were plastic (weight saving).

Nice find yeh that sounds about right. A 1.1mm plug gap is on the high side for a older 4efte external coil which I'd hope is slightly higher kv output against the small 4efe integrated coil which I had problems with when applying boost to the engine I found a .8mm plug gap was much better. Lowest I'd go is .6mm. From what I can see the tongs ct9 hyb turbo runs a Garrett T25 compressor wheel bigger. On the ct9 compressor housing coupled with the ct9a exhaust turbine and housing. I would expect it to flow more air at this pressure which i would guess at being comfortably with in its

I've just had a read threw very nice build. Lots of love and care put into this glanza.

Yeh I think either colour would look great on the wheels. Both the colours seem alive. There very dark in the shade, but when the sun or light hits them wow you can't help but look and look.

I'll look now. And yeh take your time. what you have there is a fantastic base. Your approach is measured and targeted from what I can see. If you do it right you will save money with well placed items, and no real need to go forged motor, high boost levels. The smaller turbos gives great throttle control no need to be aggresive. If you can tailor your boost to come in just after curz rpm. Say around 3krpm this engine sees very good mpg closer to 40, due to the fact the map sensor does not see boost pressure in stop start traffic (at this point it's not needed). The standard

Great choise. Speed vision billet are the biggest overlap and lift I can find but I think they still keep the engine none interference. The acis manifold will not really affect the ct9 b unless you use cams this is were this manifold comes into its own and why it was made the 5ehfe acis engine has some crazy overlap cams I'd say race spec, not what you find at all on road vehicles they make torque late in the rpm range and to the 7krpm red line. The acis manifold is to help the low rpm torque by increasing air Velocity (vetec basically) and darn good from what I've seen on graphs.

Fantastic approach. Like you say very low wear (rounding of the electrodes) which can accelerate on the platinum plug because the spark normally contacts the same point on both surfaces. Measured and all makes sense. This turbo is here if you are interested I could get it sent to a turbo place near me at some point and checked over. I'm in no need of the money or rush to sell it. Would just like to see it go to a good home on a build like yours. This with cams would be something. Ill keep hold of it hoping 1day your interested.

Not much wrong with the atomisation I'd say the boil off looks very low very clean. Boil off can be seen on the 2x center plugs on the earth electrode, dry & brown in colour tells me possibly oil vapour. Now you have a catch can fitted see if this changes over 6 month of running if not possible valve stem seals. I'm stuck in between the 2xdifferent plugs at the minute. The platinum can be a problem with much higher cylinder temps also. With you being on stock boost on a cooler plug than standard factory it's looking good. pretty even cylinder temps tbf. I'd say you c

Could the follower cap be dancing side to side and slapping the lobe maybe. It is very interesting. Maybe an unrefined casting mold if they all like identical. And yeh if you are on a ct9 b set of race high lift cams would kick ass big time. The feel of a tdo4l with great spool. I have a tongs ct9 a billet wheel at home I just got on an old MK1 GT engine. The lad didn't even know it was on the engine he know nothing about the GT turbo if you are interested in it, zero shaft play looks clean This with a set of race cams ooww next level with not alot changed. I think it's

That's what I'm thinking. All the cams I've got have these marks but on reflection thy are just on the ramp edge (contact edge) like you say so it would be more that there is imperfections/air& contamination in the outer edge of the mold getting onto the casting. I've just looked over your pictures and you are right it's only on the contact part of the cam lobe. With this being a productions line item machine finished (not hand finished) the cam edging will have sharp high friction edges helping find the weak points.

No mate I've got lots of stock cams with the same casting imperfections. Basically air pockets in the casting mold.

Above post updated my friend, edited. Am I right in thinking these the 4efte come with a heat range 6 plug. I'd definitely give it a go, if you are on stock boost pressure you can try copper core plugs (cheaper) and recheck the plugs after 2weeks of running. The cooler plugs have a longer reach into the cylinder (closer to the piston crown) this helps improve flame propergation quite a bit on these. If you see better mpg and feel better power as well as we see better cylinder temps then at the present tune run a heat range 6 plug, and invest in a platinum tip 6 range plug. I'd say th

What kind of milage do they do a month. What's your setup dutchie. What's the NGK iridium number on the plug. If possible just from looking at the plugs I'd drop a heat range but if the car is run on idle alot it's just choke running (cold start as well as unloaded conditions). Hardly any wear on the electrodes. looks like the right 1 is the hottest working to the left getting cooler which normally equates the right 1 being cylinder 1. This can normally be seen all over the plug but on these I'm looking at the earth electrode and the base outer ring (were the plug thread

I'm loving Mazda candy Apple red (soul red) at the minute or BMW m4 burnt orange (sunset orange). These are the 2x colours I'm stuck at for the full paint on the starlet. White wheels always look good or a light gray. So many options haha.

Very cool wheels. Nice brake upgrade.

Yeh, this was explained to me by the original owner of the car. Ho gave me a full tuning guild with specs and information he obtained since 2008. I'll message you now + post some pictures of the difference on the micrometer. As I explained on GT turbo site in the graph you can see it's obvious. Not sure were other tunners had there heads/eyes. I can't find 1x post of a 4efe knowingly using the intake cam and it's a perfect match for the late corrola inlet

Yeh me to I've just gone threw the thread very smart build.

Yeh I'll put a picture up. look on Toyota GT turbo site I've explained the 4efte and 4efe Dyno graphs. it's obvious on that, but to confirm I'll get my micrometers on both sets I've got in Fleetwood and post it. I've measured alot of the cams the 5ehfe, 5ehfe acis intake, 4efe ep91 4efte so far have different cams with the exception of the 5ehfe acis having a different exhaust cam as well. I have yet to measure the gen1 corolla 4efe and the gen1 ep80 gi which I have in the engines at home ready to come out. The 4efte inlet cam adds around 1500 more peak torque in the rpm range

Humm, yeh to say there not ever a great spec I'm puzzled about the sr, It does sound cool SR. shame it didn't come with higher power.