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Sam44

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  1. Sam44
    So oils can start to smell after awhile. Rich conditions would start to show on the plugs straight away, the only way to be sure it's fuel is to send a sample off to be tested. Do a blink code read out. Ring lands can be a bugger to pick up on. The best tests would be a crank case pressure test using an old school monometer at higher rpm, or cylinder hydrolic test this will definitely show up piston seal issuse.
  2. Sam44
    Some really enjoyable builds taken place. Great idea on the stacks. I think 1 saw some 1 Cut the standard manifold just after the 90deg upturn angle faceing the itb upwards giving more Room for stacks and itg filters. Keep them updates coming. If you fancy a 4efte inlet cam I've got lots here.
  3. Sam44
    Just found this now. Was stunning looking and truly great gt. Jaws still hanging here.
  4. Sam44
    Great work guys. G6r another underated toyota, keep us all posted on progress.
  5. Sam44
    Filter looks great. Abit of colour in the bay as well.
  6. Sam44
    After talking to the caribbean starlet owners. This is what is know over there and used for many years this helps stop the small plenium chamber not restrict the topend power.
  7. Sam44
    Nice bay. think I'll have to do this when I'm back. Great work.
  8. Sam44
    Haha fantastic. The mighty BMW M3 engine 300hp capable n/a the first and only 4cylinder natural asperated engine to keep up with the ford costhworth turbo and Nissan's insane RB, as seen in btcc of the early 90s. 4efe and 5efe suitable platinum plugs these help the dizzy system and low coil kv maintain spark duration and dwell (procise spark advance) as well a good earth return system. Always check plug treads diameter and pitch and plug reach against the old set. These come gapped. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/250706036 Looking on your bay pictures yours has the anti surge/pressure wave valve on the fuel rail a great later generation addition, this helps stabilizer fuel pressure waves in the high pressure side. The reason I run 2x pumping units.
  9. Sam44
    Guys I love this. Great advise, and on the fuel pressure reg put up a pic of what unit it is, there are some cheap units that are, urmm in a word bad and not stable. After looking into the normally asperated tune the most I've seen was a 91hp green na in Sheffield that ran the 4efe gen1 full setup (turbo inlet and throttle, 4,2,1 corrola exhaust) with the brown corrolla injectors and what looked like a sard regulator. From what I could see he was using the tps off the early system (also turbo) on the UK ep91 4efe ems ECU this leaned off the fueling threw the rev range and better at peak throttle, what is know as wide open throttle, WOT conditions. Ryan Lang best describes this as Ttec, after Honda's vetec because it felt like a second cam coming in when the turbo tps switched it's wot switch on which by luck (as this is not a potentiometer as it should be rather a on off switch) sent a better amount of fuel in right at peak rpm. If you look on the leader board at the torque levels Ryan lang has compared to the rest this is mainly down to the turbo tps and throttle setup, I've read up on another build a red na how to adjust it for these results there very early builds. These lads also ran full earthing kits and low temp thermostats and platinum tip plugs heat range 5 ive got the NGK part number here some were. I know the green n/a did not run the turbo cam for the simple reason of it not being know about at the time. From what I can see the na runs a rich mixture right from start to around 3krpm were the ems starts to get it right then the wot conditions kicks in and kills power. If I was to fit a fuel pressure reg I'd drop fuel pressure down by 3psi and time my rpm raise/feel the power doing 3rd gear pulls droping rpm low staying in 3rd and seeing how throttle response affects rpm raise, go quarter, half, three quarter then fully open, then slow gradually. Get used to referencing the rpm band to mph range rise. At points you will see the mph slow and also build faster this is hp/torque. When you hit the sweet spot you will feel the difference. Raise and lowwer fuel pressure psi at a time after the initial 3psi drop in pressure. Use the det can solution and the minute you Hear det clutch in and drop gear. Normally more fuel will be needed. If this happens regularly at a topend rpm rpm or setoff rpm affecting the rest of the rpm band if you increase fuel let me know there's tricks I know using rpm switch's like the msd rpm switch and fuel pressure vacume chamber that can help. It's important to run the ear stereo\ improvised det can for around 1week after adjusting setup. This is to drive through all engine load conditions, be ware of seasonal outside temp changes and driving at different altitudes these also require setup adjustments and use of the stereo ear. Using a wide band and egt on cylinder 1 will also be a great tunning aid I'd strongly recommend using the det can solution posted on my build to listen out for det as you will be loading up the engine doing 3rd gear runs. Also only do around 5 then let the engine recover/cool. These reason to use a higher gear to road map is to load up the engine. This also slows the rpm range allowing you to feel the power delivery in the different rpm bands. Also third, and fourth gears provide 1:1 engine power output.
  10. Sam44
    I have just watch it a video using the 5ehfe cam good watch. The itb setup with an ECU like the det master3 should see you to some very nice figures and times. Welcome to the rare 6speed club. I'll get the lift difference off the turbo cam compared to the na cam, I know it's not 1mm as quoted on the 5ehfe, it's also better to measure cams using a micrometer rather than verniers. Keep the progress coming.
  11. Sam44
    I'll get on that thanks for that. That's a very capable setup already but I'm sure you've found that out. If you get it dynoed do a third and fourth gear run. On most 6speeds 4th gear is the gear. Congratulations.
  12. Sam44
    Nice aprouch. I'll follow your build. I can't find many ep91 running the cam so should be very interesting to see. Are you running the gearbox yet.
  13. Sam44
    Looking good. MK3 supra very nice and getting rare car that. How are you liking the cam, they pull alot better uptop end of the rpm range.
  14. Sam44
    It's definitely worth it. These are about to take a price jump up soon, getting less and less of them.
  15. Sam44
    Not sure why it did this, link above. I could not delete. Yeh I think the later 4efe engines are a mix up of parts. The only thing I can think of is that Toyota cut down factory space producing some of the other parts. The later 4efe engines seem to struggle to make hp like the earlier units do. Not sure my self on the cranks, it's just what people have told me. I've also come across some 98 spec 4efte engines running the 4efe inlet cam that when they have used a td04 they achieve better hp figures. Again Toyota cutting down parts I am thinking. I know these cams exist because I've got around 15 4efte units and 3 4efe. Going high modified spec. it's very easy to totally miss what you are trying to achieve and can lead to problems both with money and driveability. Which then brings aggresive driving behaviour reducing reliability as well as being very dangerous for the roads.
  16. Sam44
    I could imagine there shock not having the battery motor's to send them on there way into the turbo zone. At the same time I bet they would love not having to worry about battery life and having the lift and coast in there technique. Alot to do in the shortest possible lap time threw a 70 lap race. Especially when you have driver's the likes of Hamilton, vettle, verstapen and leclerc. + Other with mind blowing abilities to make it look easy. They all know if the battery management can't match the others around them it heel and toe time\time to start driving threw the mirrors (the pack is about to attack). Love your ability to think of how to balance this issue (real tunning of the engine). It's a very real option for the car thanks. I can always try it and see, I hope this help you understand the level of tune of the setup everything is there for a reason, every component. The options for this production line car are near limitless, with most options production line components. the rpm drop out on immediate off throttle (with this flywheel and clutch setup) is killer for power on the roads. Definitely suited for track use. It trips me up all the time. Bliping the throttle would make me look like a 40year old tit lol. But the acceleration is utterly ridiculous. makes me laff every time. There is no need for me to go coil on plug but the corrola dis less system might be on its way in the near future. I'm eyeing up a corrolla. Are you aware the 4efe crank is also lighter (they are marked 4e, the heavier 4et marked cranks are there because of the lowwer compression ratio out of boost). The heavier pully would also help prevent crank walk killing my thrust washers great idea. I have started to fouces on the gear shift it's important to get it right it's very fast Requiring me to kick the clutch. The real benefit to the manifolds and 4efe cam setups gives exceptional mid and low rpm power (peak head flow rates) a fantastic match for a high torque moderate turbo to take over.
  17. Sam44
    Nice find I didn't know about the sway bar.
  18. Sam44
    There are afew different springs used I've heard of Yaris springs, VW polo springs and nissan rb springs. But I've not used any of these so hopefully others can add alittle information here. I'm running a set of cat camshaft springs in the 4efe I have which I got already installed.
  19. Sam44
    Hello. The 4efte has stronger valve springs due to its lighter pistons giving it a higher capable redline rev limmit, but these do improve proformance, gives much better valve seal. Na valve springs start to dance (wobble) around 6krpm. The 4efte also has a higher lift inlet cam giving better higher end torque output. (Increased valve overlap and lift). Hope this helps. Another great mod is to clean up the valve bowl, port cleaning up the tooling marks and lips left from the production line process. These tooling marks are like ridges really bad and just behind the valve head. There's also the lip on the outside edge of the inlet valve in the combustion chamber this stops the valves outer circumference from flowing till around 1mm lift. I'll put up some pictures.
  20. Sam44
    Great work. She will be back on the road soon and with a new hart. From what I've been told as well tunning developments are the best around in the UK by agood margin.
  21. Sam44
    PpInteresting yeh I've looked them up thy are big. I'd be interested in seeing a list of parts needed. I'll message Brad for info on his MK1 see what he has done. Thanks guys for all and any input/information, I'm starting to get to grips with these little machine's.
  22. Sam44
    Yeh second This advice, if it's before the turbo it's very important if it's after it's cat related.
  23. Sam44
    Amazing the extras that came on these for there age.
  24. Sam44
    Waw I wasn't aware the standard ems had a egt sensor. Very interested in this topic. Is the egt sensor placed before or after the turbo in relation to the exhaust system.
  25. Sam44
    Here is some informative links and videos that help explaine some of the things I talk about. Braking bias, allowing the rear brakes to be used in a corner helping the chassis sit flat, balanced for a smoother, fast corner. SETTING UP STEERING FEED BACK ON A EP80 -EP95 YES THIS ALSO COVERS EP82 & EP91 A quick adjustment on all starlets especially older worn rack and pinions is to setup/adjust your steering rack and pinion gear preload. There is an adjusting screw large Allen keyed screw under and just behind where the collume/pinion meets the rack. The worn gears and even new preload is shocking leading to poor road feel (alot of free play) this makes for easy low effort turning but reduces road feel. Like all adjusting screws there's a locking ring it!!! (A TIP HERE IS USE A PERMINANT MARKER TO MARK ORIGINAL POSITION, THEN INSTEAD OF USING A CRAZY LARGE ALLEN KEY JUST TAP IT ROUND, TIGHTEN IT WITH A SMALL SHARP CHISEL). The way to set this up is to tighten it with the car jacked up around 45deg at a time. Make sure you are comfy with the increased resistance (engine off) then whilst on a test drive it's very important that the steering self centers this will require a tiny finely tuned adjustment backing off the new set preload around 30deg back at a time. Now enjoy the amazing road feed back. Other adjustments include: clutch bight, brake pedal free play (both found behind the pedal), accelerator cable, handbrake level travel (brake shoe on Brum brakes always to be adjusted before cable) Top tip: to gravity back bleed the clutch system after sucking out all the muck you will find in the clutch mastercylinder. This is done so as to not push the muck into the seals or small workings of this system. Crazy rack preload/worn rack. I'd struggle to drive this car it would send me crazy, and 1 of the first things I noticed and was told to adjust on this starlet. Pay attention to how overworked the steering is constant correction even on most straights The importance of coolant engine block pressure. https://haynes.com › tips-tutorials Understanding your car's coolant pump | Haynes Publishing https://professionalawesome.com/how-to-make-your-street-car-cooling-system-track-day-and-race-ready/ I'll add some more later I'm just crazy at work at this very minute. Steering rack (rack and pinion gear) preload at the bottom of the picture, locking nut and Allen key capbolt. Not the large bolt facing in the top of the picture. Great handling mod.
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