rorenapier

4wd is cheating! Good luck with it all min.

Ill be at Banzai, going for glory again! lol

Tyre pressures, Suspension setup is the key And alot of practice.

Hey Cat, Nice looking zorst buddy, do they fabricate the silencer boxes aswell, or are they off the shelf items? Rory

Not at idle..

Still dont need one, and you don't have to sit in the car waiting either. The very reason water lines are on turbo's. As i said today, drive normally off boost for the last couple of miles, then switch it off when you get to your destination. All turbo timers are, is a gimick to make money, and waste petrol.

Duncan is right. Last few miles of any journey, just stay off boost and drive normal. Simple.

Ah, but if you run a line from the can to the underside of the car, facing away, you get the same effect if its hooked up to the inlet tract Proven time and time again, may i add. I can understand your opinion, but i disagree with it. Ill keep my breather system seperate from contaminating my inlet charge.

Yep and if the bearings have let go in a big way, the rod may be no use if it has been excessivley scored.

Ive run all my cars to the atmosphere, and im yet to have any issues. I would rather them go to the atmosphere, than having something contaminating my charge....

1. Bolts are fine to re-use on the crank and the nuts can be re-used on the rods. Make sure the rods are in good condition before putting anything back together. 2. Assembly lube, or engine oil will do the job just fine. 3. All 4e motors share the same block. No fitment issues. 4. If the crank needs ground, the machine shop will be able to supply bearings to suit. This should also include thrust washers.

Standard hose will work fine. My only concern is that the bottom pipe will sit to close to the down pipe, so i had mine moved to a more normal posistion for the pipe.

Make sure the plug is torqued properly. and when you refit the HT lead, peel up the corner of the ht lead to release whatever presure you have trapped down the hole.

M9 Multi spline torque.

Lol cheers buddy.

I never had an issue with taking standard springs to 7.5k on the Mines ECU i had. I know of others running the same limit with no issues. Please remember that Toyota would not put the rev limit on the max that the standard springs could take Pop over to TGTT and have a read through some issues people are having with the uprated springs and cam combo... Mickey_boy - Boost presure has nothing to do with it, its all down to revs.

Only if your upping the rev limit over 7.5k rpm. Boost pressure has nothing to do with it.

9005 bulbs are the ones you want. As for the clips on the loom side, get down to the local scrappys, newer vauxhalls have them. Its where i found new ones for mine.

I run 205/50 Yokohama A032 and they caught. Was lowered 30mm at the time. More on the front thatn the rear.

You will be thinking of Andrew Gallachers focus Ill be down, seriously thought about entering, but th entry fee's are something stupid for a single round.

Not disagreeing with you Nick, but im yet to see my rad struggle on track. Even after 10-15mins of track work my temps are all ok. Bearing in mind im running a 13 row oil cooler at the same time. This obviously helps.

Ill add to this thread, Gary has been a huge help in getting me parts over the last couple of weeks. He even delivered them to my door for me, top lad. Cheers Gaz, ill no doubt be in touch for more at somepoint. Rory

Its possible you have ringland damage on one of the pistons. Only real way to find out is to rip out the engine and whip the pistons out. A compression test will not always show up ringland damage.

About time somebody answered with some sense. ;) When was the last time you emptied the can? Does the car still drive the same. It has nothing to do with a headgasket going, but it is possibly the engine breathing heavy. OR The can is just needing emptied.

I run the alloy Civic rad, and im yet to have an issue with cooling, even on track.