Frankieflowers

It came from the new water pump 😂 Yes I did use all genuine parts

I think that the reason ehy it leaks is the loose thermostat gasket.

It came from the new water pump 😂 Yes I did use all genuine parts

I don’t want to understand what is going on.

I hope it’s not the head gasket leaking externally.

The liquid is getting out from underneath the thermostat cup. I tighten the bolts but after I went for a ride I noticed that it was still leaking. I will have to check again and I really hope it’s not a crack in the engine head. The lower bolt was loose but then I tightened it and it’s still leaking.

Found it... IMG_8271.MOV

I agree. I checked the piston heads taking out the spark plugs and nothing seems different as usual. Hi drowned the water system and it was clean without any oil. I put new liquid coolant and leveled it. Went for a drive and after two hours I checked the level that was already down. I drove home and had to put at least 100 ML liquid. There is no area where I see sugar or leak tracks. Consider that external temperature right now is around 34°. The water pump is new because I did everything I could to refresh the engine before the swap. If it happens suddenly it means that something changed. I a

Thank you for your message. I will check if the Pistons are clean or not. It doesn’t seem that the exhaust color is different and there is white smoke. The idle running up and down around 2000 RPM was weird. I want to look into it better especially because I associate that glowing mid range noise when accelerating in second gear. Very weird. The radiator isn’t new but healthy. I will check today if there is a leak but I can already tell that there is no smell and tracks of sugary elements anywhere I can see. That is why I was thinking about the waterline to the turbo that could be

Hi guys. Something weird happened. A mid pitch tone blowing noise came out in second gear while accelerating. The noise came out after the engine head has been rectified. The most obvious reason could be the inlet not being perfectly tight on the head. Let me know your thoughts. Don’t tell me it could be one of the intercooler hoses because I checked them several times. The second weird thing that could be much worse is that yesterday evening RPM went weirdly up around 2500 going up and down. Right after water temperature started to raise quickly so I turned the engine off. I waited

I had several conversations with Sacha from Sri Lanka. this is not out of topic because the mechanical changes I am willing to apply to the engine should be done to make sure that adding power with the DET 3 piggyback will be safe. in my head there are two options. After all my research I thought that modifying the stock exhaust manifold or buying a mild steel stock location manifold would be enough to gain more power using the piggyback without having mechanical problems like boost cream. The second option is buying the steel relocation exhaust manifold that demands certain mo

This is my actual concern. So yes I want to upgrade. I found the CT9 kit from SASHA. External waste gate pf course. He told him to clock the turbo to get the hot exit facing down to shorten FMIC input. It would also leave more space to custom an air filter connection to the turbo that would be something like the stock efi. I don’t want an air filter on the belts Side because there is no space with the air conditioning pipe. I want to keep the air filter on the battery side. What do you suggest? I was looking for those plastic kits to build exhaust routes but they cost at least $500. I am not g

Is it still for sale?

Did you solve the problem? do you suggest buying that manifold? I was thinking about it but I actually don’t know where to find it.

When we were in the process of grinding the exhaust manifold we figured that getting rid of material in the areas where the bolts get in would create weak areas that could crack. My friend didn’t feel like doing it. There are these Indian guys who sell a custom exhaust made of cast iron. I would have to buy that one and replace it. about the speed limiter I am curious to know how everyone got rid of it.

Thank you. The first question is how can I get rid of the stock speed limiter? Can I install the Piggyback and just get rid of that to start? we already modified the exhaust opening the turbo side ports. It’s similar to what you posted on your thread. Is this enough??

Thank you very much. So at first they told me it was better to go with a EMU CLASSIC but aa I wanted to keep AC and RPM cluster working, I dropped the option, esperially because I don’t want to change the stock ct9. My tuner came with the idea of the DET 3 and I agree but The thing is that he doesn’t have experience with that piggyback and he doesn’t know my 4efte engine. He said that 1.2 bar on the ct9 wouldn’t be a problem. What do you think? I want to get rid of the limiter that cuts ignition at 185 km/h. I don’t need much more horsepower because I already have fun with what I have. So yes

Hi guys. I have to setup a DET 3 on a 4efte engine. Can someone help me with the fte ECU pinoit to the DET 3? @Claymore @Sam44 @RoyalDutchie

Hi Sam. Dis you ever get a chance to look into the 4efe/4efte transmission compatibility with the Corolla E11 SW 7afe 4WD?

Hi guys. what about the 7afe vs 4efe transmission compatibility?

Nobody ever replied? I really want to upgrade to this piggyback but there are too many questions and gray zones. That is why I I still hold on to my stock tc9 and ecu. Anyway to get decent horsepower it will need special rods, pistons and a strong gearbox. In my opinion a td04 is only gonna stress the stock mechanics. .

I am looking for a distributor housing because mine stopped working. One of the magnets is broken. It happened while I was getting the arm pin out to get to the oil gasket. Anyone can help? Besides finding the big magnet broken, one of the small magnets popped out and I had to put it back in question: how are the magnets poaitioned and why would the distributor stop working after being opened to replace the gasket? @Claymore@Sam44

I have the opposite situation. A Starlet Glanza ep91 4efte engine and ECU in a Corolla Ee110 Hatchback. The Corolla’s cluster is different as it is full electronic ignition. The RPM signal that comes from the Starlet ECU is dirty and the signal jumps. same thing trying to pick a RPM signal from fte ECU to send it to IGN pin on the Corolla’s AC computer. I hope that you can help!

@Claymore The situation is quite interesting. So to recap I have a Starlet for EFTEEP 91 engine with air-conditioning and obviously ECU in a Corolla E11 4efe with electronic and coil ignition. To make the Starlet AC work I need NE and NE- signal that originally was going from the 4efe Corolla ECU from pin 1 to IGN pinout 4 on the AC computer. This signal he’s needed to have the RPM levels in order to permit the computer to switch the air conditioning on and off after engineer condition and to limit it’s work on high rpm. This system on the Starlet works differently because the computer i