Frankieflowers

I will try to unplug the black hose and see if something changes. Thanks.

Hi guys. My engine starts ticking not on idle but when I start driving it and I press the throttle. It does it for a few hundred meters (around a minute) and then it stops doing it. If I give more gas the engine is not running properly. As soon as the ticking fades everything turns to normal. It does it when I fire it in the morning and it’s still does it when the engine is warm. At first I thought it was the oil missing on top of the engine for the valves hydraulic but I am not sure and I would like someone to help me find out. Thanks.

Hi guys. My engine starts ticking not on idle but when I start driving it and I press the throttle. It does it for a few hundred meters (around a minute) and then it stops doing it. If I give more gas the engine is not running properly. As soon as the ticking fades everything turns to normal. It does it when I fire it in the morning and it’s still does it when the engine is warm. At first I thought it was the oil missing on top of the engine for the valves hydraulic but I am not sure and I would like someone to help me find out. Thanks.

Thank you for the explanation. How much does this kit cost and how much did you have to work on the bracket to make it fit?

So I have been thinking about this option and after asking here and there they told me that it wouldn’t be proper because the oil wouldn’t be able to move through the pipe properly like it does in the sandwich plate. This wouldn’t permit a precise temperature and pressure reading. They basically said that it isn’t a good option. I was hoping it would work because I would get out of my oil filter area and belts. I hate to move around that area and have to compromise them with oil all the time. The other option is to relocate the oil filter with the special pipes for a future oil radiator. It is

There is something I wanted to ask you guys. As soon as we swapped the engines and tested it I noticed that there is a valve ticking when opening throttle.it disappears after a few hundred meters drive. Logically it’s oil missing on top of the engine that needs some time to work properly. I want to ask you why it happens and what should be done to be fixed. Please notice that whenever I start driving and I am patient a few hundred meters it’s starts to fade until I feel the full power and I can drive normally. my brother told me that he had the same situation with his 1996 Volkswagen gol

Here I am for an update. So technically I don’t know the size but it must be a stage 2 size. I couldn’t read it on the intercooler but I must check again to let you know. I called the company that does special aluminum welding also with laser in case I needed it. They checked it with the liquids and found out a little crack and went on the original welding lines to make sure it was OK. I went home and put it back on. Here’s the point. When I put it back on I realized that the intake side silicon didn’t have both sides hose clips. My partner and didn’t put it on every point because he thou

We figure that out as well while swapping. There weren’t extra wires and extra connectors. I agree that there is some confusion in the manuals and in the echo pinouts. We could have saved precious time but we knew that we were pioneering a swap that only a few people there then they apparently went silent. @Sam44 in one of his first descriptions he made for me mentioned keeping the Corolla 4EFE inlet throttle that in his opinion is more efficient. Again at it was a big amount of work we kept these upgrades for the future coming. So now is the time to understand what can make the engine be

We will get more into the exhaust manifold topic later. First I want to tell you what I did today. so I told you that as soon as I tried the car after installing the intercooler and the new set up the car was completely different. I didn’t feel any weird noise but there was just no power. We got to this point already. my partner was busy with work because we have a shop and he told me to wait after New Year’s Eve. I am pretty stubborn and I have to leave tomorrow to see my girlfriend in the fields and I definitely didn’t wanna leave with the car running like that. I didn’t wanna wait.

You pointed an arrow on our custom hot pipe. What do you have to say about it? It does exactly what the other half pipes I’ve seen do. Thanks

You pointed an arrow on our custom hot pipe. What do you have to say about it?? It does exactly what the other half pipes I’ve seen do. Thanks

Which custom manifold do you suggest to buy?

The engine was perfectly fine. We just installed the pipes and the intercooler.

Apparently there are no air leaks. The intercooler isn’t oversized and maybe it doesn’t get enough air but it’s shouldn’t have dropped power drastically. Boost lag is noticeable and I see it on the gouge as well. I am basically one point lower compared to before. Please tell me more about the fuel regulator and how I could fix this before changing the ECU and mapping. It will take some time before I do that job and I want to have my power back. Thanks

I bought an intercooler but I ended up installing a smaller one because it would fit better and I was hoping it would have less turbo lag as some friends advised. My goal is to change the echo and map it for daily use. As @Sam44 once said do you don’t want to go higher than 180 hp for a daily you. This said again I don’t understand why I had big power drop of power even if everything is attached properly and my pipes are shorter than the usual Starlet setup. I went straight down to the IC from the turbo instead of going all around like the Starlet FMIC do kits do.

Apparently there are no air leaks. The intercooler isn’t oversized and maybe it doesn’t get enough air but it’s shouldn’t have dropped power drastically. Boost lag is noticeable and I see it on the gouge as well. I am basically one point lower compared to before. Please tell me more about the fuel regulator and how I could fix this before changing the ECU and mapping. It will take some time before I do that job and I want to have my power back. Thanks

Where do I connect the boost gauge? Which pipe? thanks for your comments. I am trying to figure out why I had a drastic drop of power. Everyone wrote that with a decent bigger intercooler and correct pipes I would have a 15% gain of power especially in the mid range with the original CT9 turbo without mapping. The turbo lag it’s quite important now and I lost the power that would make driving exciting. So it is obvious that if I change the turbo or get this one refurbished and wider inside with the bigger rotator (if that is the name) and obviously a brand new Achoo and map I will have po

Thank you for the drawing. That is exactly what I would do but it comes out that there is no oil circulation off to get the temperature accurate.

I have the suspects that with no oil circulating it would be just approximate temperature. You’re not the first one who says that but I was hoping not to shave the steering pump bracket. So tell me more about how you relocated the oil filter who is the cooling system that if you have pictures. I would rather relocate the oil filter and get it out of that nasty corner too close to the belts. I had oil all over the place because of my sandwich leak that was caused because I shaved it. It worked for a few months but then it started to leak. I hate to get the bracket off and shave it. Maybe it is

This will work without making a hole in the pump bracket? I feel it’s the cleanest job I could do and get the pressure sensor i. The OEM location with the adaptor. Any idea?

Did someone try this sandwich on the turbo engine with air conditioning? I have to be sure nothing have to be trimmed. If this won’t work then I will have to abandon the sandwich plate and go with the less safe adapter extension in the OEM oil pressure location and attach both adapters like in the picture the oil temp sensor won’t fit with short adaptor in the blanked spot on the relocation oil filter bracket Any idea?

Definitely the pressure gouge isn’t precise. I have Bres with what you are saying. The only thing I feel is less power in the mid range like before where wheels would spin also in third gear. This set up is definitely more professional and ready for a new ECU Master (EMU Classic) and brand new map. That will be the next step.

Let me know. I remember you telling be I would gain 15% power in the midrange.

We installed the front intercooler. Great job. As I tested it I immediately noticed that maximum boost went from 1 psi with the original setup to 0.9. Why? Apparently there are no air leaks socwhy is the engine so powerless compared to the previous setup? @Sam44 @Claymore @RoyalDutchie IMG_4928.MOV IMG_4929.MOV

This is what I’m talking about. Relocation metal pipe from the front right pressure OEM sensor and The other two adapters screwed one in the other with the two oil temp and pressure gouges in the side. I think this is the only way to work around the sandwich plate issue. Tell me what you think about it.