Frankieflowers

I just went to get the 10 bolts for the cylinder head. Truth is that five are code 100 and other five should be 101.

Of course my friend. We love this engine and I’ve put a lot of passion and money in this project. Nobody will get my dream out of my mind. IMG_5694.MOV IMG_5682.MOV IMG_5663.MP4

Interesting post. I agree that engines shouldn’t be opened but unfortunately when things like this happen we have to be wise enough to fix them properly hoping that everything will be fine. I even showed your post to my older brother that has decades of experience and he agrees but he told me that tightening bolts three times should be enough. I am following the procedure on the Japanese manual. I bought new balls from Toyota and I have my new gasket ready. I did not buy new bolts for the camshaft. The cylinder head and valves has been cleaned by professionals. We clean the basement head beca

Which OEM bolts. There are two codes here. Thanks! BOLTA AND WASHERS FOR 4efte ep91 CULINDER HEAD 90910-02100 90910-02101 WASHER FOR CYLINDER HEAD 90201-09024

Please give me a link. I checked on the web and shipment form the UK would take at least five weeks what’s the best procedure to take the head off? should I get the inlet off before or after?

I have to open the engine. The original manual gives torque numbers. My question is if I use the original bolts and I don’t have new ones and it would take too long to buy them from Japan, do I have to add extra 90° on the cylinder head bolts when installing the head again? once I saw a video where a guy was adding 90° to the torque Toyota was providing and of course following the spiral method. please help.

Can you guys please tell me the procedure to get the cylinder head back on? I don’t have new bolts. I only have the gasket kit to replace some parts. I need to know if I have to go extra 90° when I put the bolts back on. I will once side in a video but I am not sure.

I know my friend. I am so sad tonight. I knew there was some thing there that was wrong but it was working OK with the temperature up but I needed to fix it. I just don’t want to get the engine apart to bring the cylinder head to the welder. I really wish the guy could fix it with the laser welder without getting the part out of the car. I know it’s practically impossible but I’ll talk to him tomorrow. Where can I find a cylinder head in case this won’t be fixed properly?

Exactly. It was ticking until temperature was sealing it and it would work normally but I was tired about it so I knew there were something there. I really don’t want to get the cylinder head off. I wish that the welding guy could use the laser system without having to disassemble everything.

Bad news. No way to get to the left lower bolt on the exhaust manifold. I had to get the downpipe off and move the turbo down after freaking out to get the left lower and bolt off. It was rusty and impossible to get off. The bad news is that the right and bolt on the manifold went off and showed a crack on the engine. Personally it is external so we might save the situation with some black putty. I really don’t know how you guys get turbo and manifold off. It’s been a nightmare for the last two days. The complication added on top of everything is that the downpipe has been welded on the custom

I have the same problem but I really want to try to get it welded without getting the head removed. Is it possible to weld it?

Bad news. No way to get to the left lower bolt on the exhaust manifold. I had to get the downpipe off and move the turbo down after freaking out to get the left lower and bolt off. It was rusty and impossible to get off. The bad news is that the right end bolt on the manifold showed a crack on the engine. Luckily it is external so we might save the situation with some black putty. I really don’t know how you guys get turbo and manifold off. It’s been a nightmare for the last two days. The complication added on top of everything is that the downpipe has been welded on the custom exhaust pipe th

Problem is that the two bolts underneath the manifold are impossible to reach. How can I get there to get the manifold with a turbo attached out?

How do we get the exhaust manifold off? The turbo bolts are hard to reach.

We’re gonna take it off the engine to check if and where the crackers. I already spoke to my welder.

We’re gonna take it off the engine to check if and where the crackers. I already spoke to my welder.

Last time I checked spark plugs I noticed they were really lean but only on the ring. Could it be the exhaust manifold with a crack? Could it be too much air on Idle? The car seems to run perfect on meat and high rpm. We didn’t try to turn off the engine on high rpm and check the spark plugs. The EXU is custom so I wonder what could be wrong.

Hey thanks for the tip! You mean that by passing the sensor I will have more boost in first and second gear?

Hey Nick. Can you confirm which adaptor isI correct for this application? Which oil temp sensor did you use? https://www.ebay.it/itm/OIL-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-SUMP-PLUG-ADAPTOR-FOR-1-8NPT-GAUGE-SENDER-/153224536111?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

You know I always followed your advice and here I am with a stock engine. I just want to get rid of that noise and I will inspect the manifold. I do want to fix the gas flow because I read bath it should be fixed to avoid engine issues. I have a shop that can weld it and I will ask them to teim the inside Arrow dynamic limitations. I just want to be sure we trim it properly.

Thank you. I really wanted to get rid of them stock manifold internal flow reduction. Like you did in one of your threads where are you were showing the process of making the air flow better. I would keep the ct9 to stay around 180 hp for a daily use. I’m saving the money to buy the emu classic that my shop will map from scratch. It’s quite a lot of money including the lambda... but first I have to be sure that everything mechanic wise works. can you link the thread where are you modify the stock exhaust? Of course the FTE engine manifold. Thanks

I finally figured out that my exhaust manifold is cracked. The ticking I hear on the front engine block that fades away with the raising of the temperature is the cause of the malfunction. As I know that the stock manifold isn’t 100% performing for the life of the engine, I would like to know which aftermarket exhaust manifold I should buy. @Sam44 @Claymore

That’s cool. So I cleaned it with a product and the ticking disappeared. But then I gave some gas on the throttle with my head close to the engine and I heard that the ticking I hear from the cabin comes from the exhaust manifold. So this must be caused by a crack in the manifold or in the downpipe. I read this around and I was hoping it wouldn’t happen.

I did so and it stopped ticking while rpm raised. what shall I do now? Should I buy a new one or can I repair? IMG_5371.MOV