Frankieflowers

Thank you for sharing. We had to switch a few shims that were out of parameters. Engine seems to be running OK now. The problem now is that the timing procedure is reacting upside down. Setting +10 on diagnostic mode isn’t going to zero when unplugging diagnostics. I really don’t know why the electronics are acting like that but it definitely isn’t a mechanical issue because we did everything right. We already pulled down the camshaft 3 Times ever since I had to send out the cylinder head for welding. The distributor is very simple to fit and we haven’t touched anything that could comprom

shims had to be moved around a few times...

Update. here are the valve clearance measures we took with the engine that was almost called. Let’s say 25°C. before we did this I went to see the workshop that will change my echo and map the engine whenever it will be working fine and he ran a compression test when the engine was fairly warm The result was 140, 140, 150, 150 when I bought the engine from England, the seller sent me a video of the compression test that was 175, 170, 160, 165. As the engine temperature matters when it comes to compression test, I cannot be 100% sure of what has been done by the seller and I c

We did the cylinder compression test and it went down to 140 psi on the first two cylinders and 150 psi to the other two cylinders. It is obvious that there is a leak and apparently it is not the valve clearance instead it is the rectification done wrong.

I spoke to the Toyota chief mechanic and he told me that they usually measure the valve clearance and then the use the table with all the specifics to calculate the right shim thickness. They send the measures to a workshop to customize them. Another mechanic told me that usually they have a kit the use with different measures to see which one fits better but as we can see everybody has his own method.

OK I will do that and write down the measures. I will update you in the weekend. Thank you very much

Thank you very much. I sent a message to @JamesG I hope he’s going to be able to email me the workshop manual so at least I don’t have to translate from Japanese 😂 question. What if I need extra shims to do the job? Is it possible to pick them out without removing the camshaft? I saw a video of a guy in Thailand doing it with a few accessories. What do you think?

@Ryan-11 hello This thread goes way back but the problems to solve are the same. It’s so nice to see many people still loving these cars. I am in the process of solving a valve clearance after forging the head. Rectification has been done and they didn’t do valve clearance for me so I will have to figure it out. The only problem is that I don’t have the shims kit. How do you guys fix the gap when the shims are too thin? In my keys 1/10 mm has been rectified in that valve cup so apparently all shims should be thinner to close the gap. This is essentially theory because I still didn’t check

Yes we checked everything. The turbo is fine because the turbine is smooth and The turbine shaft has no movement. I guess the issue is that the valve clearance hasn’t been checked because the shop doesn’t have the camshaft and I didn’t know I had to do it. Never done this before and I don’t have the specification from Toyota to check clearance between camshaft and cup plates. I am so mad at myself because I didn’t know this and the shop didn’t tell me at all that I had to do it. They said that it’s normal that a mechanic is it gonna check the clearance after ratification but I am not a mechani

My heart is bleeding. They could have explained procedure or just ask me the camshaft in order to do the full job in house. My partner didn’t know the engine and he expected me to know it all. I never went through this process otherwise we would have done it right. I hope there no damage and only tuning needed. Who has the official Toyota specs for the stock valves clearances with the full procedure?

Can you please give me the parameters that the valve gap have to be between?

Here now I just received the truth that apparently seems to be the issue. The valves haven’t been registered. The shop told me that they want to do it without the camshafts. My mechanic didn’t even think about it and put the head back on. I’m so frustrated. I really hope I didn’t bend and evolve or create damage.

@Claymore is it possible that trimming the turbo side of the exhaust manifold would create a noise or change how the turbo CT9 works? Ever since we put the engine back together it is not behaving like before. It’s banging while changing gears and there are holes in the acceleration between 3000 and 3500 RPM. Mechanical timing has been set precise and electric timing has been set as default. What could’ve happened?

This is what we did we didn’t touch the bolt bumps tho we had to weld two small cracks that are visible in the picture.

Could this cause loss of power between 3k to4k RPM? The noise I hear feels like air blowing high pitch but my pressure gauge (positioned on the hot pipe) doesn’t show loss of boost. What could it be? We removed the clamp on the efi for convenience purpose and put a screw clamp instead. Yesterday I checked if it was tight enough but it was OK. Also I think that this wouldn’t change the wastegate work in the turbo. I checked the BOV send screwed in a little bit the spring pre-compression I got nothing changed.

Here is what we did to solve the cylinder crack. We got the head off and sent it to get cleaned. Then sent it to get laser welding. We sent it back to get new valve gaskets on, Valves got cleaned and exhaust and low surfaces got cleaned I got the head back to the shop and cleaned the other parts Luca trimmed and welded a crack in the mani. We painted it and painted the head cover. New gaskets everywhere! New bolts for the cylinder head of course The engine sounds amazing. But there is a problem! When we first started the engine turbo turbo area was making a squeaking noise. At first th

I finally did it and it worked. IMG_5694.MOV

This is some thing I want to try. The spray technique is helpful to understand if the door shots 100%? What is the goal? Shutting 100% or leaving 1 mm open?

I still need to elaborate this and maybe see some pictures. It’s hard to test on a daily car. I have to be 100% sure that modifications will work. If I haven’t done it before and I have no precise data then I feel uncomfortable trying something new.

Do you have a description or some pictures of how this has to be done? The boost creep they are talking about worries me. What kind of pipe would I have to replace the EFI with? Silicon? Aluminum? There are many details I am not aware of to do the job before I put the engine back together tomorrow.

@Sam44 @Claymore Hi. I would like to know if I will be able to lower the 2&3 custom exhaust mani restrictions without ruining it. The restrictions are the stud bumps that shouldn't be lowered.

You are telling me that I should remove the turbo plastic inlet to have more power but if I do it I will get boost creep. So why should I cause a problem if the ct9 has its own parts studied to be proportioned with the power needed? so if I get the plastic turbo inlet off, what should I put in the turbo instead? this is something new to me. If you tell me asap I will do it before I put that plastic inlet back on. Tomorrow we are putting the engine back together. Thanks!

Do you have a picture?

Can u you please elaborate this? by the way turbo clock cannot be moved. Someone wrote that I could move the hot pipe entrance on the turbo down to be able to reach the rear bolts during disassemble but I doubt that is something you want to do that would compromise turbo clock. Am I wrong or right?

The guy at the Toyota shop made me so mad. He didn’t help when O aaked him about the two codes before ordering them. I hate to waste time and money. He won’t take the extra bolts back so ai had to pay for them and won’t be able to do the job in the weekend. On the other hand Toyota could have showed both bolts on the parts website.