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ste91

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Everything posted by ste91

  1. If your mom is in a shitty mood because she just needs a good ragging, PM me.
  2. Both look shit to me. I've not heard anything bad about Race-Tech manifolds so I'd have a look at them instead.
  3. You wont ever get a standard manifold as good as a JAM one, the more material you remove it's just going to get weaker. I'd say it's fine as a temporary thing aslong as you're not going flat out everywhere but I'd hurry up and get a better one on there if I were you.
  4. Yeah I found that one last night. Done a bit more reading though and the costs involved all add up to quite a bit, so doesn't look like I'll be bothering.
  5. lol sounds just like mine, bought it with similar miles and fucked rad, I advise you to change the rad ASAP becsause I ended up overheating the engine and bought a new one. If you're after a sump though I'll have one for sale soon if you want it? Welcome to UKSC.
  6. I know there are different race series that anyone can go to, ones where they do like 1600cc N/A or whatever, and most of us have heard of the Toyota Sprint Series, but does anyone know of any others, I've tried googling but can't find anything, would be interested to know if there's one where they do 1.3 N/A's or whatever.
  7. http://www.motorsport-developments.co.uk/t...FAF251.tech.pdf Read all 3 pages, might be boring to some, but worth reading.
  8. Agreed, 2.5" is way too big for 1.3 N/A. Alot of people will say the airbox is good but I personally don't like it. But on such a small engine it's all going to make insignificant power increases anyway, cheapest and easiest option is to drill the bottom of the airbox.
  9. A mate had the exact same problem on her 106 and it sounded like you described - as if it was coming from the wheel, she even replaced the driveshafts and it was still there, later to be found out it was the engine mount.
  10. You sure it's not the engine mount knocking? There will be a bit of movement in the engine if suddenly letting off the throttle, and there's an engine mount on the driver's side.
  11. Also how do you remove the crank pulley as I'm going to need to change them over (the engine I bought has power steering, my Starlet doesn't).
  12. Can anyone think of anything else I'll need, while it's out I'm going to change the clutch, cam belt, and alternator belt. Fuel filter Oil & oil filter Gearbox oil Coolant Will I need any seals i.e. driveshaft seals?
  13. I've only just been able to get on here since yesterday, what happened?
  14. lol Sparky Not really an update but just thought I'd post that the lucky fucker has got some Pioneer 6x9's for 50p! And she'll possibly have it lowered after I sell my Starlet if I sell her my springs.
  15. You'll want some proper management, atleast a piggyback like emanage blue or similar, don't bother with the FCD. As already mentioned above - full exhaust system, decat, manifold. Relocate the air filter (not only does this give the air intake a better location but there is quite a significant restriction in the standard intake pipe). Possibly want to do away with the top mount and go for a FMIC instead. But you will still struggle to see 190bhp, you might want to consider a hybrid CT9, would be easier and less strain on the turbo itself. Not quite the figure you're after but Sparky made
  16. Gearbox oil another thing on the list then lol, what about seals? No mean to be pedantic with all the questions but want to make sure I've got everything before I start.
  17. It kind of looks like this but slightly different: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....opic=13187&
  18. So no fluids or anything will be spilt? When my mate did his engine swap on his Fiesta I remember him saying something like when he popped the driveshafts a load of fluid went over his drive.
  19. What do you have to do with splitting the driveshafts? Any special tools needed? Will I need to replace any seals?
  20. Does that mean I have to replace anything to do with the driveshafts, seals etc... or is it simply plug and play?
  21. I'm hoping to be able to get the engine in and out without taking the gearbox out if it's possible? Split the engine from the gearbox, take off the engine mount, and then it looks as if it should lift out but there isn't much space between the engine bay and the side of the engine. Is it easy enough to it this way?
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