ste91

Are there any foam things or whatever you can get to stop interior bits rattling? I'm going to be stripping out the CRX interior soon and then replacing it all but the suspension will eventually be quite stiff with polybushes and coilovers and I can see it being very rattly inside even if I do all the screws/bolts up tight. I'm sure I've seen some foam stuff before that you can use in between things to stop them rattling.

Nothing bad will happen when you hit fuel cut for a second or two. It's idiots who sit there with the pedal to the floor or the ones who bounce of the rev limiter for ages that damage engines. It's no good for the engine going from full load - to no load - back to full load - then nothing again very rapidly. But doing it for a second or two is fine. Not sure who you're talking to on the rest of it there so just going to answer generally - most people are probably under the assumption that he's hitting fuel cut because he's getting boost creep. Therefore the problem is boost creep, not actuall

Fake CF

Hitting fuel cut wont kill an engine. It's there to protect it. Ok it's not exactly "good" for it but hitting fuel cut/rev limiter is better for an engine than running lean or bouncing a valve. But yes a piggyback/standalone ECU wins hands down. Don't fuck around with FCD/RRFPR crap, it's no where near as good. edit - I'd agree with VPower if all he wants to do is solve fuel cut. Port the wastegate and get a HKS actuator, set below 12psi and you're set. Unless you've got both a relocated airfilter and full exhaust system with a decat then you may still get creep.

cheers mate

They are shit because people put them on without compensating for the fuelling. And they're shit because they're the most basic way of raising the boost. I wouldn't bother with it to be honest. A good piggyback or stand-alone is far better.

Think I may have found somewhere to keep it, going to see if the place is big enough tomorrow, if it is then I'll start work with the interior. The plan so far if I get enough money as it goes along is: First strip out the interior, get out all the dampness (there's a leak somewhere), then dye the carpet red or just get some red carpet made, black everything that's grey i.e. the parcel shelf, give it all a good clean, then put it back together with some good condition OEM seats as mine are ripped. Then I'll do the chassis, clean up any rust, fit polybushes, maybe coilovers if I can afford i

I'd drive off a cliff if I got beaten by a VTR in a Glanza. IMO the cheaper option is shit, either get a 2nd hand E-Manage Blue or just use a plug & play ECU.

I've been thinking that too, but I'm worried about the material being shit and wearing out. Then again Kidderminster is famous for carpets so might be able to get some local. But that will probably cost loads...

Yeah I've heard about doing that before, I think some people off here have done it on the fabric on their doorcards too?

While the CRX is being garaged I'm going to strip the interior and then re-fit it (for various reasons), while it's out I'm thinking of dying the carpet to freshen it up a bit. I just had a quick look on google and not getting many good results, some even say that it's not possible because it's artificial fabric or something like that? So can I just buy some normal dye and do it the same way you'd dye anything else or is there a bit more to it?

Don't JPerformance do a HDI replica? (Aswell as an Autobahn/Blitz replica).

A filter itself doesn't really change the sound, it's the fact that you're taking off the airbox and resonator, and changing it to an open piece of pipe. It did sound fucking great though with the Corolla manifold aswell.

They're cheap enough to just buy a new one once a year, I just gave mine a quick go over with a soft brush every 4 months or so, there always seems to be little flying bugs and shit in it in the summer.

truth

They have been around for a while, they're just not a big company compared to others. I used to have an Apiro cone filter and couldn't fault it at all, only paid £15 for it, well worth the money.

The first thing I'd be doing is identifying the cause of the problem to make sure it doesn't happen again. You need a 4EFTE engine, the 4EFE from the N/A Starlets have different internals amongst other things, so it's not a direct fit.

Is it just me or does POTM seem to make the year go quicker? It doesn't seem 5 minutes since "January POTM".

Might have a change of plan, not definate yet but I'm thinking about garaging the CRX for 6 months as it will be ALOT cheaper to insure when I'm 19, and buying a cheap Starlet as a run around until then. While it's garaged if I end up getting a decent job and have some spare money I'm considering polybushes all round, bigger brakes, coilovers, strut braces, etc... basically sort the handling and then a couple of other things like exhaust manifold. Just trying to find somewhere local to keep it and then a cheap Starlet, hopefully I'll find both before Christmas then I'll be sorted.

To make the most of it you'd probably want forged internals, uprated fuelling and management, and other things like a clutch to handle the power etc...

It's out of the gen 7 Celica's and I think some Corollas and also Lotus use it in the Elise/Exige.

I'd say it's worth fuck all after those pair of cunts have driven it.

I used to own a Starlet (might have another one soon) and have recently bought a CRX VTEC (B16). From what I've seen so far in some ways they are very similar, if you like Hondas you'll probably like Toyotas and vice versa. I'd say Toyota build quality is only slightly better i.e. more robust interior. With a few mods as mentioned the Starlet can be nippy but compared to the CRX it's absolutely gutless. Although they can be fun to drive once you've done a few suspension mods and just like Hondas they will not let you down. Aslong as you maintain them they can take a hell of a thrashing. The

Where's this garage mate? And I think I'm gonna get a cheap Starlet as I know I wont have to mess around with it too much or worry about reliability.