ste91

What make is it? Got any pics?

Not much of an update, have now got a universal pipe kit for my intercooler and a manual boost controller. The turbo is back from being rebuilt and will be ready to fit once I've made some adaptor plates, I've got some cardboard ones mocked up as a test already, so as soon as I get some bits of steel plate I'll get on with making them. After the next week or so is out the way then I'll get on with fitting some of the parts with the turbo being the last thing to go on as I'll have to get a downpipe and exhaust system made up straight after as I've got nothing to use as a temp down pipe and

Looking for a boost gauge, it must be accurate as I don't want to risk my freshly rebuilt turbo! Preferably it needs to read in psi and go up to at least 25psi, don't care if it has vacuum or not, prefer if it doesn't. Something like this for example:

I needed a turbo rebuilt and after getting some quotes from a few other companies I contacted Liam on here who gave me a much better quote than I'd got from anywhere else so went ahead with it. My turbo needed a general rebuild (bearings and seals) as well as a new compressor wheel, which I supplied myself as it worked out slightly cheaper. However somewhere along the lines there was a mistake and I had been sent the wrong part, initially Liam was going to modify the compressor housing to make it fit, but it turned out he couldn't, so supplied me with a new compressor wheel - problem s

Are you for real? "wondered if you needed help understanding anything" are you actually serious? Do not patronise me lol... I haven't asked any "questions", my posts in reply to the other guy were rhetorical. And after that I just skim read the replies and saw various things posted that contradicted eachother, from no one in particular. I'm not sure why I'm even wasting my time, my earlier post was trying to be helpful and clear up confusion, this is why I rarely post on this forum anymore.

What the actual fuck are you going on about mate? You need to calm down and stop miss-reading things, I've said nothing against you (or anyone really, just expressed opinions) so why quote all of my posts?

So much contradiction here, one guy saying external wastegates are rubbish, another one saying there are turbos designed to work with external gates... Regardless of what is "better" it stands that the vast majority of cars use a wastegate on the exhaust side to control boost, it doesn't matter what technical stuff you post on here, my original post explaining the difference between BOV and wastegate applies to 99% if not 100% of users on this forum and anything else after that just adds to the confusion.

An external wastegate is generally an upgrade over the internal one. Are you now suggesting that almost all turbos are poorly designed?

Are you seriously suggesting that having a massive boost leak is a better way of controlling boost than a proper external wastegate?

Sounds like a poor way of controlling boost to me, letting the turbo spin much faster than it would if it was controlled by a wastegate, would surely put the turbo out of it's efficiency range and then keeping the BOV open to release air you've essentially just got a massive boost leak... Technically they may be the "same" as they are just valves that allow air through them but in that sense you are just going to confuse people.

You'll need to keep an eye on air/fuel ratio, but keep in mind that a TD04 at 1 bar will be flowing more air than a CT9 at 1 bar.

BOV and wastegate are not related, the BOV is on the inlet side, wastegate is exhaust side. A wastegate (whether it is internal or external doesn't matter) is what controls your boost, it opens to let excess exhaust gases bypass the turbine wheel once you have reached full boost (this will either be down to your boost controller, or the wastegate spring itself if you don't have a boost controller). A blow off valve releases pressure from the inlet side, when you lift off the throttle the turbo will still be spinning but because the throttle is shut the air can't go into the engine,

MeisterR are the best option in my opinion, they are perfect for road use, and the customer service is very good. Plus if you do need to replace anything it's easy, whereas if you need to replace parts on JDM ones you are fucked.

Nice avatar lol

Keep the engine and stick a turbo and a Bosch VE pump on it.

Is your mate's name Owen?

Cheers for the comments lads @ Addymk2 - anything you want to know about these cars, PM me! You can get them to 130+ bhp easily and cheaply and up to 150 on the standard turbo if you're willing to pay for a remap. Definitely pokey enough for a daily driver that will still get 50mpg and out handle most cars on the road even on standard suspension, not to mention the leather seats or the practicality of 4 doors and a big boot. Oh and I only paid £1.5k for mine!

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+1 for Liam, very helpful

Valve stem seals?

A TD05 is bigger than a TD04, it will spool later but is capable of more power. Whether you need or want a TD05 is up to you and depends on your power goals, I've been out of the Starlet scene for a while so can't remember exact figures but basically if you're only aiming for just over 200bhp then a TD04 is fine, however if you're aiming for big power then stick with the TD05.

No one got anything? Also looking for a boost controller (manual ball and spring type is fine).

Preferably nothing too big, no wider than 700mm overall.

Well you say that compressor maps mean nothing, why not provide us with the rest of the information we need instead of just saying it means nothing? And if they really do mean nothing, then why are they so widely used as a means of determining whether a turbo will be suitable for your power goals?

I was trying to help the lad who posted the question. What do you suggest then seeing as you're clearly an expert on the subject?