ste91

It may not be worth £300 anymore as there are alternatives out there now, but there's no reason to slag it off, it still stands as a good manifold that is highly unlikely to crack and it retains the OEM look. Yes you can buy a WEPR one for a bit more but reverse the situation, lets say the JAM mani is worth £200-250 for example, compare it to those cheap shitty low grade stainless manifolds that people buy, I've seen them for around £100-150, so just say someone buys one of them, it cracks (which it is guaranteed to do), you then have to either repair or replace it which means you spend mo

Since when did people's attitude change from wanting proper JDM parts to saying they're shit and no better than a standard ported mani and not worth anything? The collector size is fine, the turbos that will be used on these manifolds (CT9's and hybrids) are small anyway, the difference on these manifolds is the runners, it's clear just by looking at that picture above that a standard ported mani wont ever flow as well as a JAM one. IMO people are only slagging this off so they can justify spending money on a shiny stainless steel one. This mani also lets you keep the OEM look which s

No you wont lose ABS. The solid disk setup isn't very good is it lol, overheats easily, I've got a complete vented 262mm setup for the fronts if you're interested, also got the 240mm rear disc setup as well, not sure if they're a straight swap for drums though you'll have to check. I'd be tempted to drop a VVC in there lol, would surprise a few being a 45.

Bargain for £100, they are a lot of car for the money, and they've got a really good chassis under them (double wishbone front/fully independant rear). I was going to suggest some ZS shocks and springs but I see you've already got some coilovers (which probably handle worse but you don't often see a lowered 45 lol). As you probably already know all the good bits from other MG/Rovers and also some Hondas will also fit i.e. 282mm brakes. I've got a ZS TD, lovely to drive. What size K series is in this? They are supposed to be good engines when they work.

If anyone's looking for a high quality amp that will easily fit under a seat and is suitable for powering the front speakers then I've got one of these: http://www.genesis-ice.com/uk-en/products/view.php?id=1 These amps are in a totally different league to any of the crap you'll find in halfords but you'll need some half decent speakers to make the most of it, Starlets aren't the best of cars when it comes to audio as the standard speaker size and location is awful. 4 inch speakers under the dashboard are rubbish.

Starlet owners are generally a good bunch and this is one of the friendliest car forums I've been on but there does seem to be a bit of a Toyota vs Honda thing going on which is quite annoying when it's just clueless people jumping on the band wagon and haven't ever driven a Honda or ones that race a standard B16 Civic with a TD04 Starlet and think they're shit.

+1 playing the race card when it's not really needed just dumbs down the situations where it is

LiamD is the man to speak to for turbo rebuilds.

Hilarious description I know exactly where you're coming from with this, it is an absolute nightmare and the owners don't seem to realise how bad it is. If you were to play loud music or rev your car up outside your house as often and as loud as these dogs bark it wouldn't be very long before the old bill were knocking your door, yet these four legged shit machines are "allowed" to bark day and night. What's even worse is when one dog barks and it sets off all the other local dogs as well!

You wouldn't be able to use a VNT turbo. They are designed for diesel engines, diesels exhaust gas temperature is lower than that of a petrol engine, the VNT mechanism isn't made to cope with that amount of heat. There are very few petrol engines to ever use VNT turbos. And on top of that, you've then got to be able to control the vanes, which is not simple at all, on cars that come with VNT's it's programmed into the ECU and they use either vacuum or electronic actuators and are controlled by a variety of inputs (engine load, throttle position, rpm, etc...) you can't just hook them up to a bo

Without even looking at the specs of this turbo, knowing that it's off a 2.5 diesel it's almost certainly smaller than the usual tried and tested TD04, and wont really be ideal for a petrol engine, the turbine housing will have a relatively small A/R and the compressor wheel will be designed for high boost but less flow compared to one that would be designed for a petrol engine, as diesels tend to be designed for use over a narrow rpm range.

Are you sure it's not wastegate creep? If your wastegate has a weak spring for example, it might be set for lets say 15 psi but the force of the exhaust gas is enough to crack it open at 10 psi, so those last few psi rise very slowly as the gas is bypassing the turbine instead of continuing to spool it up. A boost controller can usually fix this problem, as the actuator will see no boost at all until it reaches whatever the boost controller is set at. As per the original example, if your boost controller is set to 15 psi, it will stay shut until it reaches 15 psi and then it will open

I bought the SE37K's Going to get them refurbished as they're a bit tatty round the edges, thinking of going with bronze or possibly anthracite as they don't really stand out in the usual silver or black.

Opinions please

I'm thinking of buying these wheels, I'm sure you lot will approve of them, Rays/Volk SE37K: attempt at photoshop lol: googled pic of the wheels:

Don't ruin a CRX!!! Civic wouldn't be a bad shout though. What about a mk1 Toyota MR2 they're 1.6 non turbo.

Load of bollocks IMO, by the time they sprayed it the outside temperature could have changed so it's hardly a scientific test, and either way the difference when there's air going through it is minimal, and that's what's important. The only reason you'd really spray an intercooler black is to hide it.

Not updated this for a long time, progress is slow as usual, big brakes have been fitted and are working well, not fully bedded in yet but they feel a lot better. I keep getting tempted to buy some coilovers but the handling is so good on standard suspension that I can hardly justify the cost, same story for wheels, I would love some different wheels so that the car looks more individual but I can't justify the cost when the standard wheels look fine and aren't all that heavy. Anyway this is the reason I'm posting an update: I've had some turbo adaptor plates made, as you c

I haven't had a Starlet for a few years but still got friends and family with them and I've regularly kept coming back to the forum as it's always been a decent bunch of people on here, not going to mention any names but UKSC/UKSO has always had a much better attitude than some of the other forums I use. The car scene as a whole has changed loads since I first joined, when I owned my first Starlet the "JDM" thing was still in full swing and genuine JDM parts were being imported and sold and everyone was really into what I'd consider a proper way to modify a car - make it go faster and gene

19T refers to the compressor wheel, the usual TD04 that most people use has a 13T compressor wheel. Flanges are irrelevant as the compressor sides are mostly interchangeable. I'm unsure about it being a T2 flange though, T2 is a Garret and TD04 is MHI. The difference in performance will be that the 19T wheel is bigger and can run more boost/flow more air.

I saw this on thursday I think it was, parked next to a DC5

Really tempted to have that catch can but it's bright bastard purple, and I've ran out of black paint

Cheers yeah it came with discs, standards are 262 fronts/240 rear, I'll have 282 front/260 rear once I've got them fitted (end of this week). My exhaust was a bit of a bargain I think, 2.5" stainless steel cat-back, only cost me £150 plus £30 for a decat. I love how it can be quiet but makes a nice growl when you want it to. I'll be getting a custom downpipe made when I fit the TD04 so the whole system will be 2.5" and pretty much a straight through except for the back box.

Cheers, it's progressing a bit slower than I'd have liked, but everything is being done properly. I've bedded the new clutch in now and tried out the Torsen LSD, can't believe how much of a difference it has made, even on wet roads you can fucking nail it round corners in the lower gears and it just grips and goes! Nearly got my manifold adaptor plates mocked up so I need to get them made out of steel and I'll be ready to fit the TD04, still need to fit the front mount intercooler as well but spare time is very limited and I don't want to bodge anything by rushing. Once the TD04 is

Yes mate, still a bit soft but I guess that's the trade off for having good grip on wet roads. I think they'd be fine if there wasn't a big heavy iron lump above them, but Starlets don't weigh much so you probably wouldn't notice the soft sidewalls as much.