ste91

I completely forgot about that I'd even spoke to the lad selling it as well lol cheers

Looking for a few parts: - Forged 15" wheels, not looking for anything in particular but it's on 16s at the moment and I'd like some light weight 15s. - Glanza parcel shelf that hasn't been cut out for speakers - LSD gearbox, must come with the rest of the parts required for fitting, driveshafts etc.. - Seats either OEM Recaros or some sort of upgraded seats on Glanza rails, unless anyone is just selling rails? - Also not really desperate but a few other bits, any decent JDM BOV, GReddy/Blitz/HKS etc... and a TRD gear knob.

Not been on here for a long time, was around 2008-2010 I was mad on Starlets, had a couple of n/a's and always wanted a Glanza and now I'm finally looking for one. Are any of the old members still around? Is the forum still active? A lot of forums seem to have died everything's on facebook groups these days

Starlets are quite poor for audio, first thing is forget the standard dashboard speakers, the size and location of speakers is crap to be honest, you could spend loads and the sound would still be poor because of the location and direction of the speakers. For a half decent setup you'll want to make some custom 6.5" door pods. To get a good sound out of them though you'll want to sound deaden the doors, and make sure the speakers have a good solid mounting, you can get MDF speaker rings off ebay for a few quid. Basically you want to eliminate any chance of the door rattling or resonating as

Saw your DC2 on the track Marc it looked and sounded mint, you were flying! Spotted a white N/A EP91 on track as well, anyone on here?

The divider is not the restriction though, the restriction is in the runners, the divider is there to keep exhaust pulses separate until they reach the turbine housing, removing it is likely to cause more restriction than without it. And you are wrong about "heat congestion" whatever that is, you want to keep the exhaust gas hot (to a certain extent) as hot gas moves faster.

The divider is not a restriction at all, it is there to separate exhaust pulses and does actually help.

Looks like all you've done there is removed the divider which if anythng will have made it worse, the idea of porting the standard manifold is to remove the restrictions in the runners.

Wastegate is on the exhaust side, most turbos have an internal wastegate, which can be welded shut when using an external one. The wastegate is there to bypass some of the exhaust gas away from the turbine to control how fast the turbo spins and therefore controls boost. Blow off valve is on the intake side and is there to release pressure from the intake pipes. When you let off the throttle the throttle plate closes but the turbo carries on spinning due to inertia, so there is a build up of pressure in the intake system between the turbo and throttle body. If not released this p

It would be the other way round mate, to start with it would be closed so air has to go through the supercharger, once the turbo is spooled the supercharger is switched off and the valve is opened so air can bypass the supercharger and go straight to the turbo. You could make a boost actuated valve with a modified wastegate actuator and a throttle body, set the boost for the valve to open with the actuator, once it's on boost it pushes on the throttle body (where the throttle cable would normally go) and opens it. Would need some work as to how much travel on the arm is needed to get the

Your car so build it how you want but my opinion/advise would be to forget the OEM top mount, a mate of mine did some proper testing with temp sensors and the OEM top mount is pretty much useless. I would just use a decent front mount as you normally would on a tuned 4EFTE. Assuming you want to use the supercharger at low RPM and then switch it off once the turbo takes over, it might take a bit of working out but if you got an electronic throttle body off a newish car to use as a diverter valve, you might be able to wire it up so that it's activated by boost or rpm and automatically switc

This is the best option by far, 6.5" components, make some custom pods for the doors if you have to. The OEM Starlet speakers are not an ideal size and aren't in a very good location. I'm selling a good 2 channel amp if anyone's looking. ;)

Looking for some advise to get my paint looking as good as it can - first off the car is over 10 years old so is in no way perfect but I do try to keep it looking good. The products I use: Meguiars Gold Class shampoo Autoglym SRP Meguiars Tech Wax 2.0 Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax (also used the Gold Class version, can't tell the difference) Meguiars Clay Bar kit Meguiars Hot Rims wheel cleaner Autoglym Tar Remover loads of microfibre towels, microfibre polishing pads, sheepskin wash mitt 2-3 buckets plus a few other things for cleaning windows, stainless steel cleaner for the exha

DS2500's get my vote, especially if it's also a road car. Heard lots of good reviews about Carbon Lorraine, supposed to be slightly better than DS2500's. EBC get quite a few bad reviews although they are a lot cheaper. I have been told quite firmly to avoid them though.

Looks quite simple that setup, supercharger blows into turbo until turbo is on boost, then the supercharger is bypassed and the turbo works on it's own just like a standard single turbo setup.

Yes, it's called compound charging. The turbo feeds the supercharger, so the supercharger is compressing air that has already been compressed, resulting in much higher boost than you'd get normally. You'd need to look up the compressor map for the supercharger and whatever turbo you plan to use if doing it this way though as there's some complicated maths behind it to get it right.

Recently used Liam for another turbo, told him I was planning to find the turbo I wanted and then send it to him to be rebuilt - but then he offered me a good deal to supply the turbo I wanted which worked out cheaper than me finding a 2nd hand one. I was happy with this but this particular turbo had a funny shaped compressor housing which I didn't really want so thought I'd see if there was any chance I could have it changed - which Liam did for me at no extra charge! So I ended up with a turbo built to the spec I wanted at a good price, and only 2 days after first mentioning it turbo was bui

T1R's are fine in the summer on dry roads but no good in winter, I'm told Paradas are bad too. Rainsport 3's are as good as T1R's in the dry and absolutely brilliant in the wet. My only complaint with them is the sidewalls are a little bit soft whereas I prefer a very stiff sidewall for better steering feel. The top of the range Continental, Michelin, and Goodyears are worth a look too but they are priced higher than T1R's and Rainsports. Currently running Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 2's, very good all round tyre but not as good as Rainsport 3's in the wet. The short answer

Volk SE37K?

I love how that steering wheel looks in there, would be tempted to get one for mine but not being able to reach the indicators would do my head in. I notice your clutch pedal is high, here's a cheap fix: http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/repair-improvement-kits-1/products/rover-400-45-zs-clutch-pedal-adjustment-kit

You can buy some really small subs these days so the option is always there, have a look at the JL Microsubs (not cheap though) and I think Pioneer sell one that is designed to fit where the spare wheel goes. See how you get on with it for now but if you do eventually want a sub then look for a 8 or 10 inch in a sealed enclosure. I only say this because in my car I was determined not to use a sub, but eventually I had to give in and buy one lol, it is definitely worth it, avoid cheap subs in ported enclosures though they sound awful.

Wire the amp as mentioned before then, just the rear channels, don't worry about bridging. For the settings, set the "level" fairly low (google how to set gain), set the filter to HPF/100Hz, turn the "low boost" right down as a starting point and then play around with it until you get it how you want it to sound. You wont ever get any low bass from these speakers so consider a small sub that wont require a lot of power, you still have spare channels on your amp so it wouldn't be any effort to wire it up.

That's what I already said, but that's where it gets confusing as this amp allows you to bridge one front speaker and one rear speaker whereas usually you'd bridge speakers for left/right not front/rear. Amping the fronts would be good too depending on what they are, personally I would rip the lot out and start again as Starlets are an awful starting point for a good sound system. You'd be better off making some door pods so you could use 6.5" or at least 5.25" speakers instead of the 4" that sit under the dashboard and then either a small sub in the boot or an under-seat one, and not both

I can't work out if you're supposed to wire it so that front becomes left and rear becomes right or vice versa, because it shows on there that you can bridge the front and bridge the rear but it doesn't show how to bridge left & right which is what you're aiming to do. Don't wire the channels with any extra speaker wire other than the two wires you get for each speaker, it shows you on the amp where to put the positive and negative.

If you're powering rear speakers then the simplest option is to just use the RCA inputs and the speaker wire outputs on the "right hand side" of that amp as you are looking at it on the picture. It looks like you can bridge this amp in a couple of different ways but to keep it simple that's your easiest option. (What are you doing with your front speakers?) As for the settings, you've got "level" which is also known as "gain", you can google the proper way to set this. I don't know what "direct" does so would probably leave it off for now. Low boost will just boost low frequenc