Asad

Just to add my 2p Accelerating slowly is the key i find, theres no point watching the gauge our tanks are a werid shape i find the first half takes ages to drop then at half way theres roughly £10-15 worth of fuel in the tank so it falls like a mofo check the fuel pressure/coolant temp sensor/lambda sensor....mapping should deffo help things across the board also check the base ignition timing my old N/A drank loads when i did the "ignition advance" mod when turned back it was like day and night getting 35ish is great for our cars imo

Happy new year lads

Probably the crank seal at the timing belt side

The new rules arent fail items yet its later in the year when they will apply

amjad, iirc when the indicators on it has to either flash the dash light and/or make the clicky noice either one is a pass doesnt have to have both they just look for a tell tale sign that the indicators are activated.....if the full beams themselves come on when activating the indicator then it would be a fail also the HID thing the MOT tester have no means of testing the auto level aslong as the beam is ok then its fine, i suspect this is where most will fail as the beams are wrong its true most factory fit systems cause blinding, this is mainly because those who have retro fitted them point the beam down so as not to blind drivers the CAT thing should also be fine, aslong as it passes emmisions i doubt most if any testers will be worried if the CAT is in place so i wouldnt worry

Adl blueprint oil filter NGK irridium spark plugs (heat range depends on the tune of the glanza) oil, 5w40 synthetic like so http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1146-silkolene...ce-engines.aspx id also do a coolant flush and change the thermostat of which you want toyota red premixed antifreeze and thermostat

yeah its up to yourself bud, best of luck either way

the locking nut keeps coming loose over time to the point where it has to be done every couple of days brute force and locktite may resolve this so? a tgtt member said he managed to bend his some how and they make alot of squeeking noise something to do with the bush each to there own, i like parts that are fit and forget i cba messing around with it

after having a read on tgtt the cusco ones have trouble with the bushes, so RSR it is its £180 odd inc shipping cant seem to find a cheaper place tho amjad, they all do the same thing just some are made better than others.......not sure how much better the pillowball ones are tbh

http://www.tuningdevelopmentsbeta.co.uk/pr...a8v8kdeb9bjhkk3 http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-adjustable-l...od-toyota-50930 http://www.rhdjapan.com/rs-r-adjustable-la...e-bushing-12274 http://www.rhdjapan.com/zep-adjustable-lat...e-bushing-50423

may cost more but try get a cusco/RSR one apparantly the whiteline ones are rubbish something to do with them comming loose/making a noise all the time and one side has to be taken of for them to be adjusted wheres the others dont

local motor factors? camskills? does it spin nice and free?

you can usually tell straight off just look at the arch gap on each wheel....iirc for teins you will need one mine were out when i fitted them

most times it is the release bearing, really common on the starlet if youve got it off replace the lot

last gen of 4efe is weakest all the rest are the same can easily tell, they have a thick coiling

must be a loose connection/wire or something might be dirty mate....always wondered how it worked? does it go off when you plug the belt in? take the panels off and have a deek

i`d imagine they are, the 5EFHE has a higher rev limit so yes id say they are the same....

Sounds wicked remember my first go in a turbo ep was hooked! your brother into them? or? Can the gauges be dimmed down at night? id get really distracted by them at night .....i assume its popping becuase of running rich? you going to rr`d and get the fueling checked and adjusted or just wait and go TD04? steelies on the back? you getting some nice wheels for it?

they came like that, none of the pictures ive seen have had them changed just this one but his are fitted the wrong way round http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showth...=meister+camber so i guess not many people have gone for custom settings just had the car set up to toyota spec, which is pointless tbh dont worry about the antilift kit make sure you put the bushes on right and use plenty of the supplied grease

Found the problem, obvious much? credit to username: CIH on the wheels in motion forum finally get the thing set up!

think standard is 33psi iirc

thats the thing bro, they are £600 coilovers with adjustable topmounts i shouldnt need anything else should easily get -2 camber without sweat can only think of the antulift kit causing problems, nothing seems obviously bent

could it be the antilift kit? i remember when installing it i pulled the wishbone out as best i could then tighted it all down...to give me the most +ve caster possible?

i phoned him at the garage he said it could be two things the topmounts not on right (i reserved judgement didnt have the pictures to compare) and if you want more camber loosen the bottom bolts and push the tyre in....which i guess would be in extreme circumstances aiming for the most possibel camber? no? ill link him nonetheless

@ liam nope they just set the car up with the wheel sensors (didnt check tyre pressure nor was the car running...i had alarm bells ringing already) adjusted the toe on the passenger side....got the allen keys out and a pry bry and threw it straight to the engine side and shouted "is this enough" at me tbh i cant see me getting the other -0.70 by loosening the bottom two bolts....surely the topmount would allow alteast -2 of camber to be obtained? @ paul..... likewise i was absolutely livid, as my old man works close by i had to keep face so just asked him to tighten it all back up and let the car down off the ramp