Asad

after having a read on tgtt the cusco ones have trouble with the bushes, so RSR it is its £180 odd inc shipping cant seem to find a cheaper place tho amjad, they all do the same thing just some are made better than others.......not sure how much better the pillowball ones are tbh

http://www.tuningdevelopmentsbeta.co.uk/pr...a8v8kdeb9bjhkk3 http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-adjustable-l...od-toyota-50930 http://www.rhdjapan.com/rs-r-adjustable-la...e-bushing-12274 http://www.rhdjapan.com/zep-adjustable-lat...e-bushing-50423

may cost more but try get a cusco/RSR one apparantly the whiteline ones are rubbish something to do with them comming loose/making a noise all the time and one side has to be taken of for them to be adjusted wheres the others dont

local motor factors? camskills? does it spin nice and free?

you can usually tell straight off just look at the arch gap on each wheel....iirc for teins you will need one mine were out when i fitted them

most times it is the release bearing, really common on the starlet if youve got it off replace the lot

last gen of 4efe is weakest all the rest are the same can easily tell, they have a thick coiling

must be a loose connection/wire or something might be dirty mate....always wondered how it worked? does it go off when you plug the belt in? take the panels off and have a deek

i`d imagine they are, the 5EFHE has a higher rev limit so yes id say they are the same....

Sounds wicked remember my first go in a turbo ep was hooked! your brother into them? or? Can the gauges be dimmed down at night? id get really distracted by them at night .....i assume its popping becuase of running rich? you going to rr`d and get the fueling checked and adjusted or just wait and go TD04? steelies on the back? you getting some nice wheels for it?

they came like that, none of the pictures ive seen have had them changed just this one but his are fitted the wrong way round http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showth...=meister+camber so i guess not many people have gone for custom settings just had the car set up to toyota spec, which is pointless tbh dont worry about the antilift kit make sure you put the bushes on right and use plenty of the supplied grease

Found the problem, obvious much? credit to username: CIH on the wheels in motion forum finally get the thing set up!

think standard is 33psi iirc

thats the thing bro, they are £600 coilovers with adjustable topmounts i shouldnt need anything else should easily get -2 camber without sweat can only think of the antulift kit causing problems, nothing seems obviously bent

could it be the antilift kit? i remember when installing it i pulled the wishbone out as best i could then tighted it all down...to give me the most +ve caster possible?

i phoned him at the garage he said it could be two things the topmounts not on right (i reserved judgement didnt have the pictures to compare) and if you want more camber loosen the bottom bolts and push the tyre in....which i guess would be in extreme circumstances aiming for the most possibel camber? no? ill link him nonetheless

@ liam nope they just set the car up with the wheel sensors (didnt check tyre pressure nor was the car running...i had alarm bells ringing already) adjusted the toe on the passenger side....got the allen keys out and a pry bry and threw it straight to the engine side and shouted "is this enough" at me tbh i cant see me getting the other -0.70 by loosening the bottom two bolts....surely the topmount would allow alteast -2 of camber to be obtained? @ paul..... likewise i was absolutely livid, as my old man works close by i had to keep face so just asked him to tighten it all back up and let t

Not sure what kwik fit put in but the john bean equipped garage put in toyota>starlet>PAS and went from there although there was an option for the SR Would it have made much of a difference to the scale of the readings on the computer? It did say standard alignment at the bottom of the screen...They still couldnt get anywhere near -1 he didnt try any other settings/click something else was just adamant his machine was right and that my car was shit EDIT: Just been and undone the topmounts to rotate them 180, they are infact in the right position rotating them puts them in the wrong p

Hey all its getting to be abit of a joke now, i have meisters/whiteline antiflift kit and poly drop links and front bushes, its been at two different garages now (kwik fit and a john bean equipped garage) they both cant seem to give me the alignment settings i want -1 camber 0 toe and max positive camber (+2) they loosened the top mount and took it all the way in (towards the engine) and the computer read -0.23/-0.30 both saying they cant get anymore out of it (i was present at the latest garage) and did see it cant be taken any further....im 99% certain the top mounts are fit

Nope not done them yet, probably be done in the summer when unis out....still in two minds may just rip the head off and do it that way also get a chance to give the piston tops a good clean and the exhaust ports

Rough up the pipe with some light grit sandpaper and spray some normal cheapo hairspray on the pipe (get a good covering all round it) then clamp it down

Are you going to take the head off and do it? yes they just push on when the valve spring is off there are uprated ones avaliable on tgtt, ep82 and ep91 are the same only real advice is make sure you put some clean engine oil on them when you put them on and dont get the buckets mixed up (label them in a egg box)

for my N/A set the ride height as you want, i went for 40mm on the rear and 35mm on the front (the thread gap is what i went by) iirc i have 6 clicks on the rear and 12 on the front (rear has a harder spring or something) 1- camber and zero toe oh and loosen everything off and throw plenty of copper grease on then cut a old inner tube up and tie clip it on to the threads

Damn error...

Iirc the cam pulley is at the 12 oclock point at the 4e mark and the crank notch is at 2oclock-ish with the crank pulley showing 0 on the timing belt cover when assembled