Asad

Reduces the life of the sensor and at £50-70? A pop i wouldnt want to comprimize it Its also got something to with moisture or w/e falling on to sensor at the 90 degree angle and damaging it/reducing its life so thats why they say place them in the 12 o'clock vertical position at a certain length away

this ^

thats roughly where the N/A lambda sensor is just that it points at the 10-11 o`clock position

change dem when you like bruv

meisters

Its been done ^ theres a thread on the trecel (spelling?) forum i also have the zisco seals and plan on doing the same, i cant afford to go all out the car owes me alot as it stands.....i got the tool off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Pro-Overh...=item3f0d45121f just need to find time to do it

1) turning the idle screw usually just masks the problem.....how does she drive? miss fire? clean out the throttle body? idle control valve? 2) you got any pictures of it mate? how many wires? colour? 3) iirc the ct9 runs out of puff at high revs anyway....but the rev limit is 6-7 iirc but i wouldnt be taking it that far anyway mabe its fuelcut? 4) could be an air leak......do you have a boost gauge? whats it reading when you hear the air leak? check all your hoses and clips

Didnt know it was common ^ take the cable off the throttle body and spray some wd40 down the cable inbetween the sheath and metal wire youll need a straw for the wd40

Get a magnetic sump plug too guys ^

This is my list....i do alot of motorway mileage so need to be prepared antifreeze mixture is correct in the car wax and protect you car as best you can throw a good few layers of something like collinite esp around the arches get a big fuck off bottle of de-icer its being sold in asda and such place now as we speak and a sturdy plastic scraper not a shitty one keep some extra cash/change in the car incase you need to bus it or w/e or you need to fill up extra water/oil/tool kit for the car piece of spare carpet or two to shove under the tyres if you get stuck and a piece of cardboard for the rad on long trips to get some heat into the coolant for the heaters decent car mats, double up if you can spare bulb set and a set of wipers swap the space saver out for a full size tyre of something close to what you have on the car The above should see you fit....oh and some gloves/hat/water proof coat wouldnt do any harm

ring them ive used them....my stuff arrived in about a week....a girl picked up the phone and couldnt find anything then she rang me back saying they had been posted and i got them a day after nothing to worry about. i wasnt fussed as i had plenty of time to wait

Have a look around theres loads of sites which have cut open and compared different filters iirc genuine toyota always comes out top But like james, i use blueprint ones and decent quality oil and youll be grand

watched it before....felt something die inside me....utterly speechless hope shes going to be ok

i`d remove it...........everything else has gone is it really going to help the noise that much?

on the N/A apart from the above pictured back of the inlet chassis to gearbox (bolted on a grim/rusty looking metal plate) behind the left hand side headlight passenger side kick panel theres probably more but those are what i remember

Subaru WRX

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showth...a+rods+material POST 33

as above we must have read the same thread on tgtt, i got the impression theres no difference just Chinese whispers

you dont need the inlet to engine gasket it can be reused.....the throttle body one is the one to watch out for sometimes your lucky if your patient you can peel it off and reuse it if not just use some instant gasket/get a new seal if you have a tool set youll be ok, just take your time..a quick guide for you air box + pipe off disconnect the -ve battery terminal disconnect the earth on the back of the inlet remove the map sensor pipe + brake servo pipe from the back 4x 12mm nuts off the throttle body....save the gasket if not clean it off and also give your throttle body a wipe down also remove the throttle cable undo the top front brace 2x 10mm? bolt/nut i usually disconnect the injectors and take the fuel rail off, i find it easier some dont but its up to you tbh.....just dont lose the seals for the injectors also disconnect the small vac pipe for the fuel pressure regulator........pull the fuel rail to the right handside of the bay iirc its 14/12mm for the 8? inlet nuts/bolts work your way round the middle one will be a biatch to do use a long reach spanner if not use what ever you can to get it off then you want to undo the bottom brace for the manifold (i do this from underneath) remove it totally from the engine bay and tie clip the loom for the lambda sensor somewhere safe...you wont be using this again bang the new manifold on.....you`ll need some longer vac pipe for the MAP sensor (can just let it hang short for the time being) but make sure you hook it up.....connect the fuel regulator vac pipe and finally bore the earth wire out and bolt it to the inlet....adjust the throttle cable ensuring the car idles and the pedal is ok then put a tie clip on the throttle cable where the rubber bung is (youll know what i mean)

yeah you can remove all of the front one (cylinder bush) and keep the crush tube on and the washers in a safe place....ask them not to coat the crush tube tho seems best if you dont and your good to go

ahh then in that case i hope you havent cut off the rear crush tube iirc you still need it....along with the round/halfmoon washer

You can get rid of it all, EXCEPT the round/halfmoon shaped washer for the rear of the wishbone you will need this when putting the antilift kit on....assuming you are?

^ as above Cut it then whack it with a hammer to loosen it you'll see like a crack appear along where you've made the cut

Get the whiteline tried and tested no worries about anything fit and forget

You want heat range 7 in that case ^ BKR7EIX