Jump to content

Asad

Member
  • Content Count

    4340
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Asad

  1. I'd get one made or buy a your/zisco one at a push Totally agree nice to see some in depth technical chat going on, something this site has always lacked....just people following like sheep and buying anything with a jdm tag
  2. two diff colours, inlet and exhaust....iirc brown is exhaust double check tho
  3. so your first reference says, hollow has a better strength to weight no arguing there....steel weighs more....but back to which is stronger and the second one says, "a hollow cylinder is stronger than a rod of equal mass and the same material".....which is saying a 100g aluminium hollow tube is the same strength as a 100g solid tube of aluminium......how big would the hollow tube need to be before this is so? MASSIVE!! going back to the point i made earlier you would need alot more to make up for the strength, isnt it better just to find a solid one?
  4. pre-load messes with compression etc of the damper stroke something along the lines of that for weight transfer when braking and accelerating im not too clued up on it but i do know that....it has no use on a street car and should be left alone (should actually come pre-set when you buy them) as idrees said i can be dangerous, get in touch with CJ im sure they will sort it
  5. solid/welded ends = far superior as for the hollow/solid tube thing, if they both have the same outside diameter the solid bar wins, quick copy and paste: "for equal outer diameter,then hollow bar is less stronger than a solid bar for bending moment as well as tension and compression.moment of inertia of hollow bar is less than solid bar .so solid bar can take more bending moment.and area of solid bar is more than hollow bar. so solid bar can resist more tension and compression than hollow bar" when looking at structural stiffness.....basically comes down to, you`ll need more of a
  6. the knob you turn at the top affects damping not ride height, none of the sets of coilovers i purchased/fitted have said anything about messing with the damping adjustment to obtain correct ride height....as for the riding around on hard.....RIP spine...adjust to 10 clicks from the softest for the front and 5-6 on the back and see how you like it.... as for the pre-load (how compressed the spring is) it should be so the spring is snug and doesnt move freely AND isnt under any great tension.....you should be able to pretty much bottom out i.e have no arch gap without even touching the sprin
  7. wouldnt have thought adjusting the damping would effect height adjustment, so are you changing the preload? ^ also the rears will need to be softer than the fronts as the rears have more spring weight, be interesting to see how they compare to meisters on uk roads
  8. internal size of the N/A throttle body is 45mm FTE is 50mm.....
  9. if you have proof a welded one is inferior than a pivot end one lets have a look see......doesnt matter what brand it has on it a shite product is a shite product there is a reason why nearly all OEM designed strut brace are solid (when made under the supervision of an engineer), a pivot end on a strut brace is useless.....also they are made of aluminium which is a piss poor choice in bracing when you could use steel to provide much more rigidity....think roll cages
  10. most hollow bars have a very thin wall thickness thus lack strength, they also usually have thin strut top plates with pivots.....a solid welded bar is best or atleast a welded bar with a thick hollow tube anything which isn't absolutely rigid, detracts from the intended function of bracing imo of course
  11. exactly ^ most important thing is get one with welded ends have a read thru and check the test pics out: http://www.ultraracing.my/home/knowledge-base/material-and-design/
  12. Think someone is worried idrees has his bank/card details and could possibly relieve him of his fraudulent earnings Let's see some hustle little man
  13. dont worry about it mate, toyota over did everything back then....youll be fine
  14. Aslong as it has fixed ends + has a thick solid bar not a hollow one get the cheapest
  15. got one with fixed ends and fit it neatly, its an aftermarket part after all cant expect it to fit like factory
  16. 110mph is possible with the right mods, i remember raffa saying he got a touch more but iirc he had more money pumped into his N/A
  17. Its not going anywhere, never braced any of mine ~5yrs and its still secure
  18. Not needed bud, added weight
×
×
  • Create New...