Asad

the oil cap should fit, wouldnt use the rad cap tho cheap rad caps just give more problems

its to stop the throttle body icing up and controls the idle did this on my N/A after a short motorway run coming onto a roundabout the revs sat at 1k/bounced around continually unless it was really warm day, i monitored it over 6 months it also did it way after the coolant was up to temp starting from cold around town I would leave it as it is, if you have shitty ebay intercooler /piss poor pipe route id look at that first...also consider removing the coolant lines from the turbo

best way, i dont keep the receipt either...probs just end up crying if i kept them and calculated the cost over a month/year

Bin in, if you take too much off it may give you issues with clutch engagement and slipping

http://www.driftworks.com/gt50-steel-wheel-nuts-with-key-5-colours-available.html description says steel, its DW so you can be sure its legit http://www.thenutsandboltsshop.com/product.asp?numPageStartPosition=1&P_ID=296&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&strSearchCriteria=&PT_ID=118 http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165919-new-tuner-open-ended-wheel-nuts-new-colours.html http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1288&g=246567&p=229229&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Wheel%20Nuts%20&%20Bolts&gcl

Be a hard choice if the glanza had decent handling mods at 1 bar and a eg civic on coilovers with say a cheap boosted d...i know id not want to stay N/A for long in a honda...get some cheap laughs and boost it. D series engine are 50p and a kitkat from most places....

if you know someone in a certain field who has done well have a look at going into that if opening your own isnt something you want to do

not much out there now bro, you have to know the right people to make something of a "car" degree its not something that will get you a job the next day..very few courses are now except some of the science based ones for which they want blood/sweat and tears you have to work your way up and its a long way with a very big que at the door...the big boys want someone who is different i.e has done something special/projects holds a skill or w/e everyone wants to work at a "tuner" garage, the reality is they need a skill no one else has.... id say stick to what you do, work your way up

fine to run without oh and no it doesn't stop the turbo/make it go backwards......

webcon alpha, would be my choice

missing a earth/wiring issue

Sorry to hear it mate I double park/park futher away/shop late...but still end up with dings...cant win when theres selfish failed abortions around Any damage from the car next to me...quater panel/roof ;)

spot on ^

i say if you cant afford a legit one leave the standard one on, there are crowds of people who will vouch for the fakes but at end of the day....your car...your safety...imo

this? by the way all the wheels you posted are the same (look at the offset of the holes, all in the same place)

exactly ^ all his shit is hanging out....yes a tight bandage would stop blood to an extent but im sure he would be unconscious due to the large blood loss...he looks right as rain

surely if you were to loose your legs you`d be in excruciating pain...not just sat there chilling looking ahead like he is emotionless...even in the still picture of him lying on the floor...no facial expression whatsoever..no crying or screaming.... maybe i watch too many films

Looks like a window switch

bump

Depends what your budget is? and the mods done to the engine.....generally you buy the management your mapper is competent with

idrees summed it up, dont like the guy at all hes just another mouthy asian lad......no class

from your list id say 205 too... the mazda is rare but what about parts support etc?...+ it just looks like a ep82 on steroids you need deep pockets to own a pulsar long term...as with the rx7 N/A s-body...you`ll regret it

if the oil pump was the issue the camshafts would be the least of your problems, the bottom end would fall apart knock first tbh timing isnt really a issue here either, if it was out or not it wouldnt cause a problem like that..as you said the car would stall out/not start and it drove fine this is a oil supply issue, there was oil present just not enough to give constant lube hence the end ones went i.e a blockage somewhere in the head/cams imo of course

i have this all the time....theres options on the LHS of the main page to change what is displayed so maybe try that?

1- oil pressure 2- charcoal canister valve, closes/opens as the engine warms up 3- water temp related 4 + 5 are air con related iirc all but 1 and 3 can be removed and in the case of 2 leave it in