Asad

LOL at sending him a box of shit!

on a starlet the sensor should go were the engine block ends and before the gear lever iirc @ the 10/11 o`clock position or the 2/3 o`clock position which ever is easier putting it in the decat will ruin it in a short period of time, price up a sensor lol that itself should put you off installing it in the decat

what a prick, anyone got his facebook?......name/address/picture... publicly shame the cunt

do you still have the bonnet?

Its a lot lighter/looks better and doesn't have chips from removal like most standard pulleys have

another one for the caramel wheel took 10-15min to take all of the bump strips off + clean and polish a 5dr ep

up we go

coolant temp was were it always was as it is in every other starlet around the halfway mark...car was in perfect running order other wise, upon changing it back i never experienced the issue again

Bypassing the coolant messes with the cars idle, increases it to 1k ish when fully warm after a motorway run...I changed mine back

75w90 for non LSD 5w30 full synth...fuchs would be mine choice change at 6-8k Bkr6eya grade 6 copper NGKs I did a wiki not sure where its gone :/

I'd get some pagid discs with 5-6 grooves in, Ollie from crn brakes can hook you up..the better of the discs from my experience..if you don't want any grooves idrees can sort you out As for pads everyone has their own preference, its a case of try and see what you like...get some braided lines and a bmcs as a whole package it will transform braking

you can get it to fit, takes abit of patience but really loosen the airbox bolts (under the filter) and the bracket at the top....put the filter in and close the airbox up then loosely attach the pipe on the air box side then the throttle body side...try get on as much as you can and tighten up i ran both my N/As like this without airleaks and any issues

its a dry type of filter, it has very open cell structure not like piper cross etc which have very tight cells and can be oiled....it should be discarded and replaced with a new element not cleaned at best it will stop small stones entering the inlet

its just a car wash sponge cut in a square shape imo....k&n is way better should have got one of them

take the two bolts off the bracket and move it towards the left, fasten with one bolt.....should make it easier

yes but not enough to do any harm ^ thats normal nothing to worry about

the top hose gets really hard + hot, if everything else checks out i wouldnt worry about it

top one should be hard + very hot while the bottom one is cool and soft..... when the stat opens the bottom one gets hot and harder....cant remember what the top one is like when the stat is open been a while since i messed with a starlet you want as higher pressure rad cap as you can get certainly not lower than standard, higher pressure increases the boiling temp of water....

they are tight to get out because of the speedo cable, reach your hand back and undo it...cant remember if you just twist it off or push it in then twist...

your stat is probably stuck, whats the engine temp like?

nice car, numbers disappointing tbh....200 is/was the norm skylines/supras make 200 all day long...

very little to yield in doing this, more so an aesthetic thing...pump the money elsewhere id say but yeah the GT axle is shorter

top one will be hard till the stat opens up and fan kicks in, like really really hard...engine temp ok? heaters ok?

Vac leak?

The top pipe remains hard till the stat opens up and fan comes on, what's the temp gauge like? You've got the basis covered for a full head gasket replacement, valve guides rarely go just a quick check over is all that's needed I have some upgraded valve stem seals if your interested let me know