Asad

Dont worry mate, gets some pics up/check things over tomorrow with a fresh head

Wouldnt make a diff to the dowels if you had a small amount skimmed, they may have taken too much off that corner when setting the machine up or w/e....which headgasket did you use iirc athena ones have a issue if the mating surfaces arent clean/straight

If your confused about the water pipes loop them up so they dont run thru the throttle body

Could be that youve mixed the pipes up and waters got in (youd be surprised how many trained people do this), can check and see mate fingers crossed thts all it is....let us know how you get on buddy

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Throttle+Body+Pipes If they are wrong, drop the oil and coolant and run some fresh stuff thru then drop it again just to be sure...

Any idea on which running in oil to use? i know synthetic is a no go till 500miles and plenty of changes later.. Apreciate the help, hows your build going by the way?

Did you fit the throttle body pipes the right way round??

Is the ignitor grounded?

Tbh from the advice ive got from other members/yourself its probably best if i run a fte loom/ecu/sensors and tap the knock sensor into the block....run it in on say 0.5bar and then go get it mapped on a emu that way all i have to do set the fuel pressure as stock and monitor the afr till shes broken in

A e series gearbox is a gearbox, all the same strength with all the same parts new ones last longer but thats it.....imo you have to factor in things like -driving style, drive it like you stole it with over 250bhp and it aint going to last -mounts + bracing of the engine and gearbox...worn mounts can SERIOUSLY affect the gearbox and im talking from experience hence id never buy used mounts its poly or new trd with additional bracing -gearbox oil, use the best you can buy As above get a zisco gearset or make a endplate and some driveshafts utilising a different box with similar ratios d

Theres a template which you can try for the 14" then keri does the rest

Wms does a 14" 4 pot brake kit and a twinpot kit, but they are like ~£100 less than a standard size 4pot brake kit for the starlet which has a bigger disc......again it boils down to the wheels are they that special? I understand phils situation as his wheels are unique/rare....use 15"...the worlds your oyster

I was advised not to run 195s on a 5.5j rim iirc so make sure yours is wider

Tyres are avaliable but good ones arent, tr1's/uniroyals/eagles etc there arent any....kumho ku31's were the daddy imo now theyve been superceeded by kh31 which i have on order and im not holding my breath :/ ....Traction/handling in the dry and wet becomes a massive issue for a turbo car with cheap tyres

Unless they are uber rare alloys/you dont want any others/very temp wheels id avoid 14" at all costs....i run standard 14" glanza alloys on my NA good tyres are very hard to find of which theres is very few brands....your limited with brake upgrades....not to mention the traction issues with a smaller footprint even with some ok ish tyres... Stick to your 15" alloys would be my advice

Probably the crank seal, clean it all up from the engine and monitor it....the sump in my experience never leak unless they have been opened before it usually the crank seals

Its just a pulley, look at the lightweight ones...they bolt straight onto the end of the cam

I know the stock map sensor doesnt read boost and im assuming the 4efte one has extra pins/wont fit...ill have a wideband im worried it will just all go crazy timing wise...theres no knock sensor either Yeah im building it myself, using a 4efe block/crank going to measure it all up before/as im taking it apart and hopefully the crank is ok to go (end play/out of round/clearances)...dont like the idea of taking meat off the crank...

If i can ill get a 3 angle job but more than likely ill just lap them in, port match and give it a clean up at best Im not sure on the management side tbh, im using 4efe hardwear/looms/ecu so i dont have a clue how im going to run it in as the 4efe ecu cant handle boost...do i run it in as NA then plug in a emb/emu and the turbo and go for a remap or?? Im doing a quick run in say 50miles not the million mile hype most do... Ive got someone looking for a gt25 variant for me as we speak, decided on a max pressure of 1.3bar so it should be fun across the rev range....ill update on what i get..

Just a standard rebuild for now then?

Open the timing cover and have a look at it whilest its running, make a vid? Could be that your confusing the noise with something else?

Sorry to hear it lee, im sure the yard crew will have you back boosting in no time

Its just a metal "wheel" mate, has a seal behind it thats all....you should get a idler, tensioner, belt and a little replacement interval sticker in your kit...

Looks much better now, you got a print out on what power shes making?

I remember a thread ages ago where the basic consensus was "ive paid for it, its my map im not uploading it" "every car is different etc etc" Enzo? Tried to get some knowledge together and some base maps in one area of the forum but as you can see it never worked out...if anything most people on here just pay the bills and chase hp dont actually get involved/know what there doing just follow like sheep so wouldnt know where to begin to upload the map.....try tgtt? Or one of the traders for a small fee?