Asad

not sure where that quotes from, no reference but this is directly from the good book.... "Vehicles equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with headlamp washers and a suspension or headlamp self levelling system. Where such systems are fitted, they must work; however, it is accepted that it may not be possible to readily determine the functioning of self levelling systems. In such cases, the benefit of the doubt must be given" http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_170.htm regardless of what i says on the internet, the testers ALWAYS default to the manual....my old man whos been a tester since i was nipper says "if it never had any to begin with, theres nothing to test" this is true, failure is ALWAYS due to the beam being wrong...simple

there not illegal...there`s still no point fitting them you want to be able to see whats far ahead of you not just a meter or so in front.... philips do a xtreme version which i highly recomend and the opinion is they have a longer life than nightbreaks

Cost free-£30 Fitting, you need to plug up some holes and re-position the throttle cable mount but nothing major Fte throttle body would give it a very top end powerband sticking with the stock inlet box is best regardless Up to yourself, repends on what kind of driving you do

avg here too, will try microsoft next see how it compares

i have one thats the right colour if it falls thru ill let you guys know...how much you wanting for yours aiden?

5efe inlet is the same as the standard 4efe one from the starlet, i.e no use i have a FTE inlet on mine with a std throttle body and found it to be much better when compared to the corolla manifold, if you have the corolla one slap it on if not buy a FTE one and use that they are cheaper anyway

have a look bud, dont have to know stuff about wiring to spot a broken/loose/rusty one

yeah lol tighten them...jiggle them about make sure theres no rust etc etc

if you take the screw off there might be a trim pot under it...or mabe swap some resistors around....

yeah check all earths you disturbed, its more the wiring side which you need to have a look at on the thermo housing....did you undo any?

as above ^ they also made a speed jumper to de-restrict the limit

any news on this? how`d it go? video?

probably a earth wire has been disturbed or a wire on the thermo housing...check it all and report back

till i collapse lose yourself i need a doctor skepta-hold on skepta-ace hood flow skepta-dare to dream going to go do legs now....

wouldnt put them on anything except a non mover, the weathers getting worse....brake>skid>into the back of someone...

"Ah I see mate, the thing is as its working I don't wanna mess with it and risk Causing a problem"

If theres nothing wrong with it leave em be

Hence people running bigger tubbys are wanting a coil pack setup which provides a stronger more stable spark especially at the upper rev limit

Cant remember the specifics but too much boost i think?

No experience with them bro i prefer the tried and tested...get the blitz big block its a solid boost controller and can be had for peanuts of you look in the right place

I think most display the boost reading but depends on which you get apexi avcr (expensive) and blitz (big block one) are what id recommend

Oil temp imo much better indication as to when to give it a boot i.e when its nice n warm NOT when the waters hot If it overheats youll know via poor running/oil gauges Yeah bro set it up to the max of the standard ecu 0.85/9 with supporting mods then go for a emanage with higher boost when youve got the paper

Factory spec = standard gap Modified = custom gap till the car is happy

4300k for the best visability anything above that is more colour and less visability....think its a h7 bulb?

my coilovers returned and were very hard to press...^