Asad

what are the manchester lot doing??? have you guys sorted anything out yet??

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29532 9 pages......

smart......^ What i ment was the FE has one breathing port so its easy to hook up a catch can.....the FTE has two so not sure whats best. check the threads on tgtt...sooo much confusion

great.....i have to clean the car soon

Nothings hard, a bit of patience is all thats needed......im sure ryan is a patient and dedicated lad out to do us ep egg heads proud

Endsleigh is for winners, was the cheapest i found

boom!! http://www.tm-developments.com/index.php?m...products_id=827

if you`ve got a glanza engine, it would be easier to get a glanza interior loom (totally replace both the N/A ones) u`ll be able to fit the clocks without ball ache then nothing electrical fits into the gearbox, just the speedo cable so no worries there if you`ve got plenty of time take everything out and tart it up wings lights bumper bonnet.....all off

ross pistons and pauter rods are another combo what are you doing with regards to the wiring looms? imho this is the hardest part when going N/A > turbo

piston slap is something to be feared, http://www.1fastv6.com/Dieselectomy/ http://www.pistonslap.com/whatisit.htm as the man above said, when its warm it settles down thus no noise

The kumho`s will do ive read ALOT of good reviews regrading grip and tyre life, its not lowered so i have no confidence going into a corner fast just lurches and body rolls like a fatty until thats sorted i cant experiment

No other way for a N/A, imo this is the best way http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331989 most people set it up wrong, there needs to be suction to pull the oily/moist air into the can and thats where the heavier oil and water falls. Stuff some wire wool in there not like the pic tho make sure its pulled apart with holes in and not just a clump sat in there (this will increase SA while allowing air to flow around) really not sure how to set it up on a turbo

That's why I said eventually.....iirc liam d's piston rings went at 120k so mileage is nothing to go by but my meaning was as it's over 100k that's were the problems start most of the time.

I`d say around £700-750 smart N/As fetch around £1000.......its over 100k so valve stem seals will eventually cause problems for the new owner imho the damage isnt minor

mine has a sunroof too

excuse to order some new shoes for bob me thinks....Kumho KU31 it is

cool ^ i didnt even know who half the people were, recognised the usual criminals (craig and co) and that was about it

Cheers for the pic luke, its not everyday my little car gets a pic taken of it is there anything special about the carina? or is it just the paint job?

sorry i couldnt stay long......again!! nice chatting to you lads

tell me about it, thats why bobs wearing his old shoes again!!! (check the traf meet pics) ill take a pic of the big fcuk off nail that caused it all later.....was JDM tyre too

a pic of the engine bay will settle everything......

Ever since i heared of the toms 3K-R i searched high and low to see what was special about this little engine.... Based on the 3K, 1166cc, the Tomâ??s engine was bored out to 1293cc and featured a unique DOHC 16 valve cylinder head. The engine also featured a Nippon Denso mechanical fuel injection system and dry sump lubrication factory 3K engine was good for 45bhp @ 5600rpm. The 3K-R produced 180bhp at a frenzied 9000rpm. Just think about that for a second...180bhp from less than 1.3 litres! only around 20 of the engines were built taken from: http://retroscenemag.com/post/Toms-3K-R-Engine.aspx amazing?

Service time!!! oil + oil filter = done heat range 5 iridium plugs = done panel filter checked + cleaned = done To those who dont have a magnetic sump plug, i`d recommend getting one i didnt think it would catch anything but 11k later and look at the small filings including a thin metal shaving of some sort attached to it. Next! Ive had the car for two years and one of the first things i did was check the pads...they were halfway and genuine toyota ones (god knows how long they have been in there could be from day 1?? ) still have plenty of life in them. went to replace them to be greeted with this the back of the driverside brake pad has lip and all the way around the disc theres roughly 5mm of area thats rusty and flaky oh and the caliper needs freeing off.....great i was bored soooooooo.....thought id bypass the coolant from the throttle body looked like this, one pipe in and one out the braided pipe is longer and this is the shorter one disconnect the short one completely and attach the braided one to where the short one was, attach the short one to the throttle body so its there incase you need to change it back (its one of those things ull put somewhere and loose the fecker for when you need to put it back = ball ache) or you happen to go to some mofo place like an arctic exhibition and need to warm the tb up seal it all back up after a quick run the throttle body is cold to the touch no where near as hot/warm as it was with the coolant going thru it = win

The corolla and starlet were given the 4E-FE...the little engine would have a mammoth task moving a MR2 let alone get the rear wheels spinning up!!

I'd leave the water lines, the smaller turbo + bigger turbo would be cool.. Massive fuel pump bigger injectors