Asad

Yup it's an extra, think the standard shocks are different for you tho only avaliable thru Toyota iirc Tein do a similar system for there coilovers what's it like to drive with? Feel the difference?

seems like a really good oil from reading reviews expensive tho, run in with some cheap 10w40 then put the purple in

I'm 21 this July and my insurance renewals in may, so ultimatly I want to be ready by april 2011 Money wise I can get together 2k without touching my saving IF my manager gives me the OT she has to fill. Wonder how much extra it would cost to insure the AWD??

Hey! Been thinking hard over the last couple of days....generally over the year ive had loads of crazy ideas ranging from a 4E-FE turbo,ITBS ect to buying a separate track car! Basically Im power hungry theres been sooo many times i wish i could just put my foot down and get out of a certain place/road/situ but cant. Dont get me wrong the FE is amazing...but i feel its time to go for more power!! i have a year to make my mind up and get the car ready to insure for when im 21. so do i........... sell my 5dr and get a 3dr AWD eventually throw a bine in it? convert my 5dr? Buy a 3dr and co

Just take the tyre off you'll be able to see everything

A new clutch always comes with a new release bearing bit puzzled how you say the clutch has been replaced and not the bearing.....if the noise goes away when you depress the clutch pedal it's usually the bearing that has gone I'd replace the whole lot get a decent clutch kit off one of the traders here, what's your future power goal you may aswell put a clutch in now that will cope with the power oil is 75w90 different if you have a LSD iirc

All 4 wheels have ABS that's how it works, disconnect the battery take each wheel off and you will see a ring with about 40-50 teeth on the outside of the Cv joint make sure it's clean and all the teeth are there. You'll also see a sensor pointing towards the teeth of the ring make sure it's clean sometimes they get bits of metal stuck on them.....lastly check the wire+plug for the sensor is intact with no cuts/rust After doing all 4 wheels connect the battery and go for a drive it may just be some crap on the sensor etc so best to try this before forking out any coin Asad

Get the iPhone app

Expensive!! 5E-FHE ones offer a ~1mm lift and go for around £100 but the rest cruise etc etc are expensive and rare some guy sells custom ones on tgtt which have fitting problems so id stay away till the issue is sorted. Enzo said something about getting custom ones made up??

think we may have a colour code gents, ST2? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1998-TOYOTA-STASRLET...=item4cefe38b2f

my FTE Inlet is nearly ready to go on just need to tap out the ICV hole = more money as i dont have a tap and die set

Ordered

Bumping this up, im home most of the time now what do you guys need/want anything specific? are the prices not right? Thinking of doing oil/oil filter inc fitting and a quick look around the car for problems as a intro offer any interest? Asad

I'd do it for peace of mind, if not throw Idrees or someone who's breaking a V a pm and try your luck that way

I'd buy a rebuild kit, strip both calipers down, get them sandblasted or what ever, throw some paint on, rebuild them!! Your sorted then no more probems

Ill get payment to you guys asap, i work on sundays aslong as i can get that off im all set Amjad your comming end of!!! p.s to all the manchester guys are we going to convoy down? rickstar not coming??

The link I posted....

The posted question was regarding a FTO, and the answer given was generic If my understanding is right..... 1) ALL cars go thru the BET test first if they pass the following thats it no more testing Fast Idle (2500-3000rpm): CO no more than 0.3%, HC no more than 200 ppm, Lambda between 0.97 and 1.03 Normal Idle (450-1500rpm): CO no more than 0.5% 2) if it failed the BET they go thru a full emissions test which is carried out 2 1/2 mins later: 1st aug 1992 - 31 july 1994? on the database = (CAT) test using the stated requirments not on the database = (non cat) CO can be no more th

i think?? All cars go thru the same basic test, if they pass this then thats it.......if it doesnt pass this within 2 1/2mins another cat test is done which is car specific thats where all the ball ache starts. Have a read second post, here

Yup ^ just the count varies from car to car

It was like that when I booked my test keep checking for cancelations they nearly always come up

Best get that test passed matey, Even after two years of driving I get headace for opening the bonnet to check the oil let alone spend a full day cleaning it and buying parts is a whole different can of beans!!! Have you booked your test?

Have a look at the relays + fuses first then follow the above

1) Check the fuses at drivers footwell And engine bay (not sure where is tbh) 2) whip the door card off and see if there is power getting to the switch and motor connector 3) apply direct power to the motor After doing that ull know exactly what's wrong, the switches don't usually go unless uve got water in them 90% of the time the carbon bushes in the motor have gone

Fark!! that things the same age as me