Glanza_Ragger

Mate, that cornering on the inside of the bus at about 2mins in, is ... immense! ;) Thats not bad quality bud..How much did it cost ?

As Rick said basically. When you advance or retard the timing on the distributor, youre going to be adjusting the timing over the WHOLE rev range. So for instance you may increase the power between 2-4k but 4k onwards you may be losing power. You'll really want an ecu hooked up to view the tables and adjust according to rev.That way you can advance or retard accordingly and get maximum power and torque across the whole spectrum. It might feel savage between certain ranges but then it may drop off torque/power in a different rev range and feel like a bag of wank.. Craig.

That was quite a hardcore comment Riko, my point is that, ive trackday'ed the starbo before with the rotas on... And there still in one piece. Obviously it isnt a pure track/drag car so i wouldnt be pushing the wheels to there limits day in,day out. If i WAS to visit the track more frequently, i would opt for a compomotive You people are just finding images of damaged Rota's. Wheres all the images of the damaged other brands? Ive seen a Volk te37 with a huge fracture mark in one of the spokes in person, after a couple of hours worth of track abuse. Obviously all companys will have bad batc

Just checked youre progress thread dude, it looks like it came from the factory with them! Loving them with youre paintjob bro! Plus i love the ignis recaros anyway so

OR you just adjust the actuator or use an electronic boost controller to restrict the boost with the solenoid..

God damn i love the Rota threads.. I have Rotas... Rich bought my old jdm rims...The ones that look like mini compomotives... Well any way, Ive owned my rotas for 3 years now, and in that 3 years, i have never had any buckles,splits,cracks,dings,bends,pops,twists etc And for the cash, there very good light weight wheels.I wouldnt change them for anything...And , i might even buy another set for when i get my respray 'because i <3 them that much..No there not jdm, yes there replicas of spoons, no they dont bend... I lovez 'em Stick youre Volks up youre shitnugget encrusted poopholes

5EFE Timing Guide That will give you an idea.

If youve never timed an engine before, i highly recommend you dont try it bud, Advance or retard too much and you'll do damage. Ill see if i can find the guide for how to time a 5efe up..I'll have a hunt for ya bud... Also gives torque settings and valve clearences etc.. Just incase you need them ever

As my good man Sparky said, Can also change the fuel filter as well as giving all the turbo oil lines a flush out, flushing youre idle control valve out with carb cleaner, along with the breather lines like the pcv valve

I bet they look spanking bud! Are you using the ignis subframes modified to fit? Or did you buy starbo specific recaro frames?

Im pretty sure you cant buy them from toyota... Why dont you just buy some recaro subframes and buy some recaros that look the same...? They make models almost identical to the glanza optionals bud

If youve taken a feed from the RPM signal wire on youre loom, that should do the trick bud ? Is it definately a good connection? and wrapped properly? Keirs's method is a good way to check if youre getting the proper reading.. Is the gauge wired direct into the loom wire? or have you connected the control unit up to the rpm signal ?

They dont make fixed height dampers, but they do sell the pillowball mounts seperate! Just have a little look inside the arch and have a look.. Mine are l-zero1's, i didnt really need the electronic damping compatibility of the zero 2's .. Get them set up perfect, and there stunning.Also dont piss fluid every other day like Teins A mate just bought some brand new Tein superstreets for his evo6, 2 weeks later and the front 2 are pissing themselves like a 13year old after too much cider Craig.

lol the codes on here are correct for the clear indicators bud. They might have said its incorrect if you gave them youre uk chassis number and they brought up the clear indicators for the jdm model? Front Right Clear lens T81511-10290 £4.43 + VAT Front Left Clear lens T81521-10270 £4.43 + VAT Side Repeater Clear T81731-02022 £10.64 + VAT Taken from Phils thread in the partnumbers area.. Craig

Thanks Jay and Phil. Ive ordered the large dizzy cap dust seal and the timing shaft rubber o-ring all for a bargain £4.85 Ive got a new rocker gasket on there, i just like to give it a helping hand with a tiny bead of sealant under the flat edge of the gasket as i find even when there new, there pretty shite rubbers Thanks lads Got my EPC working too finally, i thought i had deleted the iso files but they were hidden amongst my crap on my harddrive lolz Craig.

As Ecks said, any tuners with a rolling road can adjust them. Youll want an afr gauge and an egt gauge hooked up, then its pretty simple, just turn the dial inside. Find the GCC to go with it, then you can fine tune the default settings..Which will smooth out the boost over the revs and give you a wee bit more power. I sold my old setup not long ago to somebody off here, i cant remember who it was though for the life of me. The e3112's are the best of the ep types to find. I only got rid of mine for either a unichip or emanage ultimate, im still undecided

White ftw Where did you find that discount code bud ?

Say an hour job if you really take ya time, and make a cuppa Toyota? keep an eye on ebay... I need the clear glass because i shattered mine like a numpty when i was attacking the dash with a drill Craig.

Glanza or gt?

If youre after a boost controller on a budget , and cant afford an electronic jobby, go for a manual "dawes device" type bleed valve, such as turbo smarts item. Be cautious of ebay copys though, as there generally wank and bleed boost/spike easily.. Buy direct from companys is my advice if youre after a bleed valve type. If you can save some pennys, go for an aem/hks/blitz type electronic jobby.. Even better, an apexi avcr..The apexis are slightly dearer but you have more functions on them. Forget the greddy profec b's unless its the older retro type because ive been through 2 solenoids and

David, Jay, youre heroes ! I wasnt too sure if it was 1 or 2 rubbers inside the assembly,off to toyota i go There seems to be a bit of a leak from the dizzy assembly, ive not had it off yet but i may as well have a guess that its these rubbers that are shot. Cheers guys a bunch.. Craig

need the part number for any seals inside the distributor and shaft please. I think its only the one o-ring sealing the shaft and head, if anybody could fire up the diagram for me please.. Need it asap.Sorry about it being in the wrong section but it gets attention in here Craig.

you make me chuckle Saying that though, i gave my v its first wash for a whole year..I even bought it a rubber duck to play with whilst i jetted it off big spender huh

Its all about personal preferances Black with blue or red lips have been done to death, and whites just a pain in the ass to keep clean. practicality!

hardcore mate, i took it off earlier to repaint it and just run a little bead underneath the old gasket for the time being Mateee, do you have the toyota epc to look up the shaft seal number? i have the program but the discs are damaged