Glanza_Ragger

Swan neck!! the exact word i was trying to think of Yank the aircon out rich, it cuts the time down of taking it off by half, its less fiddly and you wont need to employ a small child with dinky hands to do it ;)

If you have a turbo timer or just let it idle for a few mins after a hard run..And dont run the turbo to pressures it cant handle, then itll last a long time. If its oily, white smoke constantly on idle, but it dissapears as soon as you drive it, it'll probably be turbo oil seals. Pop the intercooler pipes off and check for thick oil residue inside. I personally run a hybrid ct9 and im very happy with it, there immense if you dont plan on building an uber drag spec starbo ;) If you have a gt, and dont want to fork out for a hybrid , go for a ct9b.Has extra fin on the impellor so it'll boost

Take the water rad out Air con rad out air con compressor off so you can get underneath easily efi pipe off of turbo Unbolt the top manifold to head nuts, then unbolt the manifold to turbo 4x bolts use a long angled ring spanner with as thinner ring as you can for the manifold to head lower 2 nuts. You can get to them barely from in between the runners and working up top. You should be able to rest the turbo on the oil line and pull the manifold off if you pull the turbo a bit. dont yank too much if its still attatched to the oil lines as you dont want to bend or kink the pipes. Best if you

If you have a faulty oil gauge, try replacing the sensor.Also check the wire leading to it hasnt been chaffed/cut. Sensors can be bought from Demon Tweeks for about a tenner or so

Any type of light hanging from the bumper is extremely ghay.Enough said ;)

O.o Poor 'liner.I have to admit though, it does look a tad pansy compared to the R34.. My opinion is that they should have created something far more aggressive looking than the 350Z which it just.. doesnt.Other than the trademark rear light clusters...Its just not a skyline Saying that, i wouldnt say no ;)

Yahoo scavanging time then ;)

Go too low and you'll end up putting a whole can of whoop ass on youre driveshafts and running gear because of the angle the shafts are. You have to be realistic when you lower it, Speedhumps, savage pot holes etc.. god bless the uk. If youre fitting coilys, adjust them and put them on the car, then if you want it lower or higher, just adjust them.Do the swap youre self, its a piece of pish bud. All you have to do is swap and then take it to get the camber,castor,toe set up.

Unless you want some spanking looking gauges, i wouldnt bother either bud. Spend the cash on other bits that'll look good or make a performance difference Craig.

So youre going to pay 100-200 for a stainless manifold, just to pay out for another 100-200 for another one in a year or less Wish i had that kinda cash Do as the master says, and get him to hunt you a JAM manifold down, there the strongest but also hard to find and pretty pricey when you do find one. OR keep an eye out for a RoadRunner manifold, go on tgtt.com and contact Ivan - the roadrunner fabricator and ask if he has any or if he could knock you one up, if you cant find a jam item. Save youre self the hassle, time and cash on stainless manifolds..Once they crack, a repair weld will

Oil Pressure Oil Temp Water Temp There really the only gauges you'll need.You could purchase a wideband but its alot of cash if youre not really going to need it. Oil is allways worth keeping an eye on though, And water temp just so you know EXACTLY what its running at rather than just looking at a needle on the dash lol Sard oil filter sandwich plate, with seperate pressure/temp take off adaptors if you need to convert the thread size/pitch.. Im running a sard block, with a tpiece with a blanking plug in the end, and the aem oil temp sensor in the other side. And threaded into the 1/8th

Its stainless.Which means it'll crack. Dont bother, and if you heat wrap it, it'll just crack quicker Buy a cast or mild steel manifold, such as a JAM manifold, road runner if you can find one etc. You dont have to drill any holes, id be worryed if you did drill any holes in it because there pre drilled. If youre happy using tools and have a bit of mechanical know how, it'll be a piece of piss to fit. If you do choose that manifold, take it to a fabricator and ask them to weld little tabs onto each runner to the header flange, and a couple on the turbo flance to the main cone.It'll keep i

As Paul said, you wont have any issues bypassing the restriction. You might have a bit of crud in youre oil line.. You only need the smallest fragment of metal, grit etc to block a line and cause the oil light to come on. Remove one pipe at a time, and give them a thorough clean and check for splits. Also have a general look for any leaks or splits in the hoses. Get the car idling and get under it to have a look, any little drips etc, wipe off and keep an eye on to see if its still leaking.

golf 1.8 turbo.. it needs the turbo just to get the thing rolling lol Never been a fan of golfs unless its a minted mk1 You have the right idea though, dont ever take youre car to an import dealer to part exchange it because they'll rip you off and flog the car on for way more. Sell it on ebay, autotrader, freeads... whatever it takes. If you have another car to run about in, say a family car whilst youre looking for youre starlet once youve sold youre audi then it would be much easier. Dont forget you can also arrange an import youre self, its more hassle but it will leave you with a fe

If you have universal subframes with them, (base mounted type, not side mounted) you can hack youre original starlet subframes up, cut the legs off which bolt to the floorpan and fabricate them onto youre new universal frames.

Instead of swapping, why dont you just flog the A3 on fleabay ? You'll get more if you sell it privately rather than part ex'ing it mate Good luck which ever you choose to do

Yeah but cant you find some that are in the uk bud? As stated, you'll pay an import charge for anything from japland or yankeedoodle land

Yeah i agree, its alot to take on if youre not confident you know how it all goes back together. Plus you'd want to get some new gaskets for when you refit the turbo and downpipe, so it may work out better just to do what Enzo said, and put youre cat back on.. Would be worthwhile if you take the turbo off in the future whilst doing other bits to it, like if youre considering changing the manifold, do it all in one go.

Do it diy stylee with a dremel and a sanding bit. whip the turbo off, open the wastegate flap and attack the round hole under the flap Best to leave it to a pro if youre not too sure, as you want it quite even and smooth. If you do attempt it youre self, make sure theres no metal filings inside the turbo so give it a good blast out with some air. Either that or send it away to have it ported pro, wont cost you much, phone around all the turbo places like turbo technics, turbo dynamics etc. Or just limit the amount of air its getting for a temporary job, ie wrap the air filter a little bit,

Obviously its not the best way, because youre putting alot of pressure on the solenoid valve. What it means on that hks FAQ page is , you cant LOWER the boost pressure, i said you use the controller to limit the boost.. If youre actuators set at 1bar, it means you cant lower the value to say 0.5. But you can hold the pressure back, the solenoids will allways limit pressure to a certain extent, otherwise they will be pointless having a desired boost setting. All an elec boost controller does, is let the desired pressure through the valve, hence why they have gain settings etc. The actuator

Give LEDA a call, there based in essex. They cn refurbish alot of coil overs.

If you get the popo involved, they will just be browsing peoples cars looking for anything to nick them with. Never a good idea, As long as you dont invite gommos it'll be a good event. And you get alot of other clubs meeting up at bluewater too, So if there are non starlets up there, there probably up there with there own clubs. You cant just claim the place to youre self, if everybody behaves them selfs it'll be a good night. Shame ive missed so many, I really dont wanna roll up in my haggard lookin v

So youre saying that if you open the actuator right up, to say 1 bar for example, and then you set the boost controller to limit of 50% ie 0.5 bar, it wont hold that? ie it'll be holding boost pressure back using the solenoid.Brap Boost creep is an ASS.If youve never experianced it, you wont know how much of an ass it is. To put it simply, creep is when you hit the desired boost pressure, but then it keeps going up up and beyond lol Normally down to wastegate size, airfilter relocations and also cold weather can make it creep.. Best way to solve it, is by hacking at the wastegate on a c

Can i sniff it with you ? That ep82 looked savage as hell, nice find bud ! I saw that ep ages ago in some jap mag, think it may have been in banzai ?

You can get coilys reconned, i know Tein recon in the uk at service centres, but i dont know about cuscos, trds, buddys, etc Normally not much point reconning a standard shock , works out pointless when it would be better to buy a new damper.