Glanza_Ragger

;) No worrys bud.

It will merely help it boost quicker with the extra fin. 1.5bar .. oopsy ;) Check youre vacums to and from the turbo / actuator.One will either be split, not tight etc causing the boost to keep going. You might be lucky if it only hit 1.5 a couple times for a split second. Dont be running it like that though bud.

Have a look at Scutch's post in this section, about his underpowered glanza.I put the compression ratio in there bud. 250hp is possible and more as Enzo stated, All depends on the tune.

No matey, i think you misunderstood. A new sewing machine for home will cost around £700! When i get these retrims patterned, and get going , i will be doing them for around the 400 mark ;) That will be available only to us guys, any others off tgtt.com or various other forums will have to pay the full price!

Ill get some bud, but the real photos will be of mine when ive finished it. I was just testing how much interest there would be, as i cant take the piss out of my work, and do these seats there ;) Hence why im trying to buy everything i need for my own workshop at home. I use the word "trying" because a machine costs in the region of £700 for a good condition one. Its all about cash flow at the moment

It should well do, It sounds purely down to the clutch not gripping.Mine is exactly the same after i wrote off an exedy 35% clutch and put my original back in ;)

The revs keep going when the turbos boosting, because the clutch cant grip dude. Hence why its not pulling any harder. Im getting an orc clutch &fly combo.Let me know youre thoughts on it when you have it fitted mate

Muppetry is normally my job

Well mikey, When im set up, i could arrange to come round and remove youre seats.I can leave youre driver side in only so you can still drive the car. How does that sound

The first set of any type of seat will allways take the longest, due to having to take each machined panel apart and make templates. I wont be ordering pre-made leather kits from malaysia/china etc like alot of cheaper companys do! Each will be taken apart by hand, layed out , fresh templates made taking into account any stretches the old fabric may have so the new ones will be nice and tight, and then put together. I can do any type of seat you wish, Also ill be carrying out recaro seat repair work, using original cut fabric from recaro.So if youre ltd edition recaros are looking a tad sha

The leather would come to around 150. It would easily beat any leather you find in other cars, like beemers,pugs etc THE best quality you can get.Its made by a company called Connally, They supply aston jag etc .So you know youre getting quality. I use top quality Bonded Nylon threads too, for both seam work and twin stitch where as some other companys will use cheaper polyester threads for the seam work, which can split easily. Nylon threads are waxed, which means not only do they NOT go fluffy, but they dont attract dirt like polyester threads. All you would need, is to feed the leather

They would look spot on, on a saxo,pug,renault,vdub etc... anything euro but not jap ;) My opinion.

If i was to set my self up at home, how many of you guys would genuinely be interested in a leather retrim? State seat type, ie .. glanza oem - gt oem - recaro oem etc State if you would like the rear bench trimmed to match also state if door cards want trimming. Just to let you guys know, ive been machining for 5 years, And have been trained by a guy with over 35 years experiance. Ive retrimmed all types of bucket seats for speedboats, also motorbike seats. Im just considering if i should convert the spare room in our house into a workshop and bring my machine from work, home. In about a

Could feel very revvy as its slipping the clutch. Engine will sound fine, boost fine, etc but you wont get the power to the black stuff, if the clutch is slipping dude. Standard clutch? if its on its way out, it would still select gears fine, but slip slightly when revving. See if it gets any worse, take notice of when it comes on boost, if youre not really feeling it come on boost, probably clutch dying.

Thats normally my job

Beat me to it Paul

Diesel = slippery oil = slippery, You probably braked on the oily patch hence the wheels locked up. If its oil on the road, you wouldnt have to apply the brakes hard at all for them to lock up and send you sliding as if you was on ice. Only did it on that stretch of road right?

Ratio is 8.2:1 off the top of my head.. 170 on each cylinder should be a very healthy engine. But it can range from 130 upwards depending on the condition of it

As the ct9s are so responsive low in the range, it would more than likely be youre giving it too much throttle too sharpish. You just dont realise how easily the ct9s boost, resulting in the wheels spinning very easily.Just be a bit more gentle bud, treat it like you would treat angelina jolie, smooth and gentle L O L @ Rynos picture, lead foot anybody ?

Id agree, what would the chances be of both youre cars brakes playing up on the same part of the road. It will more than likely be oil or diesel on the surface, probably from a scumass lorry Just get somebody to check youre brakes over for good measure.

Welcome to the partayyy Wish i had bought a black one now Good luck finding a decent V

What hes not saying is hes boosting up and dropping the clutch at 6k

Amazing clutch/flywheel combos so ive heard mate. This is what ill be getting when my new engines in. Silly me bought a 35% exedy , that totally died within about 3 months, so i slapped my old slip'meister original back in. So as soon as my forgie is in, this is the combo ill be going for.

;) I personally cant see how youre spinning up in the dry. If youre not easy on the throttle they will spin very easy in the wet. But yeah, clutch control shouldnt see you spinning. Even when i was running mine with treadless tyres it didnt spin much. what have you got youre pressures set at?

Shite tyres? Too high tyre pressures? too much throttle? Boost too high to pull away smoothly in 1st? uber camber settings ;) ? Just take it a bit more easy on the GO pedal