Glanza_Ragger

150 will be easily obtainable bud Exhaust and decat, air filter , and uprated actuator with slightly higher boost should see you getting that figure

I have a soft spot for mk1 dubs. That looks well tidy chap.. Loving the pink powder coating too awesome

DONT forget the aerodynamic wiper blade spoilers!! instant 10bhp extra

People have run well over the 200bhp mark on standard internals on a TD04 for years with out any damage. Just have to make sure its mapped well and you'll be laughing. Obviously forged will be youre safest bet if youre going over the 200bhp mark. There dead easy engines to tune and get extra ponys out of bud. What ever you do though, dont just buy one, and crank the boost up silly.

Ahhh i know the stuff! Yeah the fumes choke you up instantly. Nasty smelling stuff, but i may give that a go next time. Does the stuff damage paintwork ?

It wont fit with the blitz pipework either bud. Look at my HOW TO REMOVE AIRCON topic in the HOW2 section. Thats the same pipework. You will have to either buy an adaptor for the ssqv OR weld a ssqv adaptor on inplace of the blitz bov take off pipe. The blitz pipework comes with a half inch dia take off pipe.Thats about 6 inches long. You will have to either buy an adaptor like i said, and run some samco to the adaptor or cut the take off pipe off and weld the ssqv adaptor flange onto the inlet pipe.

L O L ouch ive done the same thing too many times.. At least ill never be caught at a crime scene now *this guy had no fingerprints!!*

Yeah it does need a bit of force to pull the arm out, but you'll manage it. Unless youre built like peggy mitchell from eastenders Nah you wont do any damage if you only hit it a few times. You dont want to be hitting it constantly though bud, Get it adjusted spot on as soon as you can

Caustic Soda? Whats that lol I normally use Gunk to degrease parts i wanna paint, but its not the best stuff in the world and its pretty expensive.

LMAO @ Enzo. Unlucky bud!! im guessing it didnt have any bogroll handy? No mate, youre not being stupid. If you have the actuator mounted to the turbo, and then try and get the actuator arm to reach the wastegate it wont.It will be UBER short. What you wanna do, is attatch the actuator arm to the wastegate first! Then use a mate if ones handy, to use brute force to pull the actuator mount in line with the turbo mount holes.Whack the bolts in finger tight then torque up with a spanner. You need literally brute force to pull the actuator arm open.Bit of a bitch, but it will reach. Another

As Keirz said, vinegar is spot on for cleaning wiper blade rubbers. You probably have a bit of grease or crud stuck to it. Failing that, yeah Bosch blades seem to last fairly long.There what i bought and they have lasted well over a year and still like new

Ah if youve had the intercooler off, youre probably leaking boost from either a hose or that gasket. Buy a new gasket from toyota, think there about £3 and re check all the jubilees are tight and none of the hoses are slipping off etc If you havent noticed it before you removed the intercooler, thats youre problem matey. If youre running high'ish boost you can normally hear a whistling noise as the boost pressure is escaping out of a gap, but when youre running near standard boost which is next to nothing, you wont probably wont hear anything They really are a piece of cake to fi

Thanks Nick If i can help somebody i allways try just as you or any other member on here would I was pretty sure it was the map sensor line, but not 100% Thats pretty much the only vacum it would use to tell what pressure it needs and to adjust accordingly. If i were you bud, i would try a T into the map sensor vacum line, just below the sensor itself.Hook a wideband gauge up, and if the reading goes crazy, its the wrong line lol. There dead easy to setup, either take it to a rolling road and have them use there afr equipment or just buy youre own gauges.There allways handy gauges to ru

yeah, as stated. Buy an R clip from any model shop that sells remote control car parts etc. There the clips that are used to hold the body shells onto the model chassis. that way you can jus pull it out with youre fingers Simple. Its a case of adjust it and check.Adjust it a bit more and check again. Bit of a pain but thats life. yeah the stock actuators bleed off boost.Thats why uprated actuators are one of the first items to swap. Its due to the stock actuators having small holes at the base of it, which lets pressure escape.

or just bribe a child with candy to do it

Well this is purely guess work. But as its a pressure sensor. and it needs to alter pressure sensor signal Id have guessed at the map sensor vacum line. just a guess though bud, like i said my version spliced into the pressure sensor feed in the ecu and altered it that way.

Im pretty sure its the pressure sensor line you want to t off of.Dont hold me to that though, as i had a revision 3 pfc and it altered the stock pressure sensor signal. Taking that into consideration, id have thought 90% sure its the pressure sensor line you want to t into. Double check with Toby as he has run a pressure sensor version pfc before i think. Thats the same manual i had. My manual i had with my version just showed the wiring layout of how to splice into the ecu harness and wire in a fcd and gcc.

Has anybody thought about a user feedback section in the forsale section ?? Just thought it would be a good idea, that way we can leave feed back for which items we got and if there was any problems etc

Turbo Dynamics did mine, quoted 1.5 max obviously you wont be running it at its max. Ill be running mine at about 1.2/3 ported wastegate, larger penny, cutback exhaust blades, 12 comp blades, steel shaft, machined out to take the larger internals, larger intake and ceramic coated. looked savage sat next to a spare ct9b i had sitting here. i got a 12month warranty card with it too. those g-specs look pretty mental too. Bargain price which is allways a bonus.

You dont need to remove the EFI pipe to remove the actuator bud. should be a piece of pish to remove the standard actuator with the efi pipe in place. Just make sure you dont lose the circlip on the hks actuator arm.Have a bag of spares at the ready youll need them! Just run the vacum from the actuator straight to turbo, dont use it with the hi/lo solenoid because it pisses it all up. Run the boost setting off the actuator untill you purchase an electronic controller.

Didnt you get an instruction manual with it bud ? Have a look on google and you will find a manual telling you to t into the intake manifold line. If you cant find a manual , give me youre email address and ill email you some photos of the american manual. you have egt and wideband gauges to set it up ?

lmao the plate does look like it says sorry. as somebody above allready said, i hate the bonnet vents on pulsars themselfs, let alone anything else. saying that, id still be happy to own a pulsar

That site cracks me up. The glanza looks spot on from the front.Dont like the boot though.Why badboy it and cover the lenses up? Im not keen on shopping lists either. IF they are quality vinyls like bodywraps then fair enough. Look at them all arguing over what a boost controller does GONK springs to mind? And ive yet to see a pulsar 200bhp or less They just make people laugh at them with there idiot like comments. Why slag something off if there not the ones to own it and have to drive it. There probably all over 50 years old with 20 kids and cant even afford a bus fare.

Hello bud. Look at this thread of mine. It shows you how to remove the air con system.. Obviously you dont want to remove it, but it shows you the tensioner bolt you want to loosen off to remove the belt. Pretty obvious which ones you want to loosen. Air Con Removal Just so you know, you need to slacken off the nuts i have circled in the 6th and 7th pictures on that page. When there loose, you will be able to work the belt off, slide the new one on and re torque. 10 minute job, thats including a cuppa

Agreed.You may have a dodgy window seal rubber/hole in the scuttle panel. If it leaks without it raining, you will have a faulty heater matrix.