ecksjay

it wont scrape mate, my glanza was approx 45-55mm lower than stock and it never scraped, it had a monster exhaust on it also, it all depends on wheel/tyre combos etc, if its used for lugging about and you wanna just lower it on the cheap then keep an eye out for used springs, they popup all the time on here and on tgtt, should be able to get a set for about 50quid that'll do the job, no need to spend 125-150quid on springs these days really if you're just wanting it a tad lower

sure you're on the right forum mate? not many people over here have ever seen that thing before, its not something we get over here.

...call him?? :/

they're decent, but only lower by 25mm mate, not much at all tbh, wouldnt buy them new personally as for 125quid you could get two sets of alternative springs if you were to buy used, you could get a fixed height shocks/spring set for not much more.

i have no idea what you just said, either thats a drunken post or someone needs to go back to school ;d

you're all a bunch of lesbian gash bags.

maybe its already been wound out fully?

i really need to shout anymore about liking pie??? don't think so, don't need a sticker to tell people that, i just shout it at em anyways ^; and no, not cheap, just spent lots and lots on parts ^;

what are you finding difficult? You wind them down with a set of c-spanners, and lock them in place, job done. people have confused you by mentioning the top mounts with adjustment, this merely gives you the ability you adjust the dampening, not the ride height. ride height is always ONLY adjustable by winding down the collars (be it up or down), anything on the top mount (adjustable screw etc) will only be for changing the rebound of the shocks internally, nothing to do with the height. wind them all the way up, lock em on, sit the car down, drive it about (so that they can settle, it wont sit properly straight away as it'll always seem so high after removing them, they need a mile or two driving to settle down), then do the same in the other direction, lock them in place, drive about, then compare the right heights, you'll then know which way you have to wind them to raise or lower the ride height Tein HA's 'should' be damper adjustable, its the HR's which are only height adjustable, so yours should have rebound damper adjustment on the top mounts if they are HA's, but this doesn't necessarily mean they have camber adjustable top mounts, as this is something different again.

someone buy me it and i'll put it on my cars ^;

madness!

this is a lesson to everyone as to why greddy gear is, well, annoyingly pap. years ago they were lush, its such a shame ;[

you still not got that engine sorted yet, you bloody muppet. not even i can claim fuel economy that awesome also, it has to be said, as i'm in a funny mood... ^^;

i have a cusco one that should bolt right on.

thatchers.

i believe his is a gt2530, i think he discussed having it hybridised but it is definately a gt2530 in essence. those types of turbos are relatively laggy on an SR20 (what they were designed for), so on a 4E then they will be even laggier, it'll never be a 'high response' setup unfortunately, thats just the way of the world. High response would probably need to be a hybrid smaller turbo of some sort, GT2510 is smaller and would probably run decent bhp whilst being responsive, as its pretty much instant on an SR, in honesty you'll never truly know until its bolted on, it's treading new ground really and the only way to know for sure is to try, as the specs of everything will affect it all in different ways. Most responsive high-bhp starlet i've ever been in was a Hybrid TD04, around 270bhp and still very responsive, no real noticable lag, that was a completely custom turbo however, built at great cost specifically for that engine to particular specifications. Very impressive however, think it was a TD04/VF series hybrid. For response ideally you should be looking at the 5E route, they do produce that little bit more torque and give the extra grunt which does help with low down power, gets the turbo spooling that little bit quicker.

you'll need to have a flange welded onto your intercooler pipework to accept it, it'll need some fabrication anyway. that will be a bolt on kit for an rx7. they're mottled casting from the factory, it wont 'polish up' as such, if you want it like, mirror shiney, tbh it would make it look a bit...chavvy....if you want bling then get a baileys, they're chrome innit bruv no but seriously, it'll either need the 4E-FTE specific flange or some custom fabrication.

orange??? they never made an orange one.

GT2554R is quite a large turbo for a 4E, i assume you're going 5E? Even considering that, it'll still be quite laggy. it'll EASILY produce 170bhp, but that turbo is used for 300bhp on an sr20, so will be very laggy and well under its efficiency curve if forced to run only 0.8bar on a 4E. abbott is running a GT2530, and that is rather laggy from what i understand, a GT2554 will be larger again, and hence, even laggier. He produces good power (around 220-240bhp from memory), however he's running it at a fair old whack, so is making the most of it.

emission laws think you meant there

hit it with a hammer? who fitted it? what did it come out of? what loom was used? etc

ye too much blue would look tacky, no need to overdo it. you crazy welsh bum bandit.

it was tc. the power of tc intervened and fucked god in the ass.

give me that car. ;]

you wish.