ecksjay

we went with the best people, it was still crap. the track action was crap because of the weather (nothing could be done about that), but otherwise everything else was poo. the drifting was of very poor quality, when you're used to watching the japs. as above, we wont be going again, bit of a shame but there we go.

awesome day??? unfortunately it was an absolute chav fest, and very poorly organised. a humiliation for such a legendary circuit really, very dissapointing.

right angles for de losses.

now then. yes, it is de camber ^;

^; i do try. md helps.

lewis, it really is a loud prick, loves it

lush mate, absolutely lush. ^^;

jeff was like, k no thx.

sparky, how cheap is cheap? it MUST have the correct harness, otherwise its useless. defo check this mate, if not then you may aswell throw it away. the commander is a neat bit of kit, but, its not needed when mapping it as al the main shit is done on a laptop, the commander is just used for monitoring, displaying a bit of shit and the odd bit of fine tuning, but all the mapping will go on with the laptop it depends what you;'re going for tbh because it may well be complete overkill, if the stock turbo is saying then an safc may well be more than enough, or perhaps at the most an emanage, and you obviously know the prices of those.

looks like electric mirrors to me, think its a normal version tbh, not the poverty one. and yes, thats a blown fuse, it does it when the plugs behind the hazard switch are put in the wrong way round, as they arent all different sized plugs, so best to pop those out and make sure they're in correctly (its only two screws for the dash surround and it pops off, the one around the head unit etc). Otherwise just replace the fuse, i think it may be a fuse under the bonnet but either way its only a normal 10 or 15A fuse. as i said, it happened to me ;)

jag im actually quite dissapointed you didnt get any of mine on there, i know it was in a random place (hey, its my car after all, wouldn't have been right if it was like in everyone's faces ^, but you still coulda got some awesome pics, as you are obviously very good on the camera. shame, but hey, no biggy, make sure you get some of the dirty slag at BW ;)

only if you post pics of her wearing them. ....and let me pie her.

if i pie, i dont care. you can finish yourself off for all i care ^; but yes, snuggles are the wins.

yes TC merchandise will be for sale in the next few months, hoodies, t-shirts, and i'm gonna try to get some hats and pants done. TC pants, hell, yes. TC french knickers anyone?? ^;

i'm sexy, what you talking about. doesn't matter anyway, you dont have to even be facing me during pies, so that doesn't really matter. ask shelly, she reads a book during it usually ^;

awesome, just awesome. well done mate. did i actually introduce myself to you mate? pretty sure i met you but never formally introduced myself, sorry if not bud, was pretty smashed all weekend. you gonna be about over the weekend at TDi/BW/TRAX??

me and rick might not be there first thing, so by all means whoever is there first, jump straight on, we're gonna be spooning and snuggling, so we're prob gonna have to use some sort of crane winch system to get us up ^;

average running wattage? ^; hehe, cute, but wrong sorry bud. the last bit you said though is true, it doesn't matter what sub is on there really, it's all about the amplifier and ensure the voice-coil setup is compatable with the amplifier. also, crisp isn't always best, it all depends what type of music you listen to, but that is getting a tad audiophile for most. personally i'm a sucker for Alpine's ancient F#1 status gear, such as the DDDrive equipment of the early 90's. I've used it for years and even though its now very expensive and a nightmare to find, i would still use it even if i had limitless funds. DDW-F30A sub, powered by a Genesis Profile-Sub amplifier, oh, hell yes. If anyone can show me a better sounding SQ amp/sub setup for the money, then i'll eat my own ass. Will also have myself a set of DDC-F17C's, or if i can find them in japan, DDLinear comps, which are the new models of the old school DDDrive range. Old school nak amps are alright simon, good bits of kit, pretty reliable. They aren't the best about by any means, but they're usually small and rather efficient, which is handy in the little JDM kei-cars etc. Have just bought myself a Nak MB-75 to go in the S14a, which is an in-dash single din 6cd changer, no internal amplifier (so awesome SQ) etc, basically a chuffing mint bit of kit. it was £750 when new, so should be half decent. Will regularly break, but thats part of the fun, i have an old alpine 7894RB to use if it does decide to rape itself.

hmm, think you guys need a bit of education, not to sound too condescending ^; I dont wanna sound all teacher'y, but the watt figures you're quoting mean absolutely nothing. '1000w' amps are NOT 1000w rated, that is just a bullshit figure they pluck out of the air. the ONLY ratings you need to pay attention to are the RMS figures, nothing else matters. To give you some history, the peak or max figures are actually the output from the amp, if it were to basically get struck by lightning, a second before blowing up. it is the theoretical maximum that it could ever output, if given loads of voltage, and allowed to explode shortly after. In reality, its just a random figure that the manufacturers slap on the boxes to draw people in, it actually rarely reflects the true output or power handling of the equipment. a 350wRMS sub should give a fair old whack, if combined with a suitable amplifier, that has the power handling to cope. Even an amplifier rated at 200wRMS would be fine, however ideally you need to use an amplifier with higher power handling than the connected speakers, to give you some headroom and not over-stress the amplifier. To get even more technical, you will need to pay attention to the impedance the connected speakers will load the amplifier to, which is decided by the voice coil configuration of the speaker. a single-voice coil 4ohm sub will obviously load the amplifier at 4ohm, however a dual-voice coil sub will actually load the amplifier down to 2ohm, which some amplifiers are not designed to cope with, and so they will overheat and either break, shutdown or burst into flames (i've seen it happen on alot of cheaper amplifiers as they do not have the necessary protection circuits to prevent against overloads). Basically, there's alot more to it than just going "OH YEAH 1000W AMP WITH A 1000W SUB BE FINES MAET ^;". If you want a truly compatable setup, then i'd be more than happy to offer affordable suggestions. Put it this way, i've had an amp before that was 12years old, measured 24" in length, cost £1050 when new and output around 2x400wrms @ 4ohm, however it was in fact 2ohm stable, so you'd be looking at around 2x600-800wrms when loaded at that impedance. It doesn't sound alot, but in your 'max/peak' figures, it would probably be in the region of 5000-6000w, but again those are just bullshit figures. It also weighed a ton, as it was made in the days when money wasn't any object, just high quality equipment with high quality parts were used, such a good piece of equipment. wow, that makes me sound like a right geek ^^;

simon, you'll just get so many fucking hugs.

i'll be there, tc-hoodied up ;] still have a spare/prize one yet, we'll discuss de winner over the weekend. it wont be simon though. just to confirm.

i'll have a spot for the s14 please me and rick will be there as and when, we'll be cuddling so it'll take alot to get us up.

yeah get one so you can come to jae, then we can pie you and your bf.

sure, when its 300brake you can have one ^;

mate dave could actually make you pregnant. by looking at you.