Blue Icarian Wings

Fitted the damn things! To be brief the rev counter is fine, as is the speedo, I know the fuel is off, hope it settles so I can readjust it before I run out of petrol,..... Tried making custom faces, but the rev needle caught so couldn't move freely enough, oh well A small victory overall, just need to adjust that petrol needle Also I swapped over the speedo mechanism from the old clocks so no need to disassemble the mechanism to alter milage, so,...... Quick guide to SR clocks fitting 1. Grab Miracle's wiring guide, and SR clocks 2. Check the wiring colours matches 2a. It does, goto 4 2b. It does not, goto 3 3. Rewire the plugs. As you look at the plugs in the dash, label them B-C-A, left to right (numbers are on the back of the plugs, or use the wiring guide) Order to move plugs B1 out (might goto C5 just tape off for now) B2->B1 A8->B2 A9->A8 A10->A9 A11->A10 A12<->A13 (swap) C5->C6 4. Put plugs back in Obviously this misses swapping over the speedo mechanism, and a few tips that make the process a lot quicker I'll do a proper write up later, PM me if you want details and I haven't done the proper write up yet, or promise me free food and I'll do it for you at JAE

I'm sure you deserve it thou Mmmmmmmmm chocies

The old covers that came with them were on photopaper You want something that won't fade, and can cope with a bit of damp (condensation on those cold winter mornings), is thin enough to let the light through, but stiff enough it won't go all flappy, photopaper isn't perfect but it's nearish. Watchout printing them out, you'll need to do them at 100% and I'm sure whatever you use will be 'helpful' ;) and resize them to fit the page. The g/f is having a go at the moment, it she gets anywhere I'll post the results up

After bullying the scanner to behave and a small go in Photoshop the pics are now at 100% lifesize (I think not printed them out to test). Simply print them out as a template or draw over them in Photoshop, I've scanned the backs to so you can have a look at them. You can see the square holes in fuel/temp for the auto lights, and on the rev counter the shape that is cut out for the boost lights. They only have a slight hit of blue, but they scanned up really 'glow in the dark blue' must be something in the material/ink to make it glow better. You don't really need the backs but if you decided to make a 'proper' set to replace the existing ones, instead of just a cover to go over existing them, you'd probably need the backs for the light diffusion pattern Enjoy ;)

£40 when I got em, they were in my car, now in the missus, I think their good! My head unit the cheapest JVC there, had flames on it (why I bought it! ;) ) still in my car, plays mp3 CD's and has a sub pre-out good if you want to expand later, I've no probs with it, or complaints about it

Look in the part number section, I've a thread there with part numbers and prices, this was also asked a few days ago, does nobody bother to look/use the search function? Me, dunno where I've left them ;)

Looks good, how easy were the seats to fit? I think it mentions it in the car manual, but yeah never seen one ;)

You could use those discs as anchors, never mind brakes!

Would also like to know where to put my money

Looks good ;)

I'll forgive you then ;)

Fuck JDM, that car, those wheels, it rocks

Possible though, as cars for a while now have been built by machines, and therefore CAN be that precise with stuff like that More likely they feed in a middle voltage and slap the needles on, if only I knew the range of values they worked with I could do the calibration myself, anybody around here happen to know the electrical specs for the SR cluster?! No worries mate, but I'm sure the swap method should work for you. Also the cheapest way that doesn't affect quality may be the answear I had to remove the needles to get the custom faces off. The temp does go down on it's own, like the rev counter, but not the fuel. I put the fuel back where it was which is fine, but the temp/rev may have 'slipped off' the scale. The jumpy on power-on rev needle makes me suspicious, ;) but if I zero it the needle at power-on but engine-off it should be fine, and do similar with the temp (but with the engine warmed up of course) it may be fine. 4-day bank holiday weekend coming up, I may have another go then Gonna drop miracle411 another PM ask some more questions There faded and peeling, and I'm gonna scan and post the pics up over the weekend (if I can remember where I left them), but if you want them PM me if you need an address

Not meaning to sound arsey, but there completely different the OEM, is a filament bulb it acts as a resistor limits the voltage/current across it, too much voltage/current and it blows like a fuse, LEDs have a similar approach to electricity, as crack-heads have to white powder They take whatever they can get, even if it's too much, they really need a resistor to limit there intake, the LED bulb I got with my 2nd SR cluster had 2 mini resisitors built in Check out this link out to get a better idea (also most of the above was pulled out of my rear so might not be 100% accurate ) Good luck sorting it though ;)

You look around for light-weight noise deadening material, if you really wanted to keep the weight down

Or we ever get a plasma dial group buy together, I'll do both sets at the weekend

Sparky you should go here Also got a quote for the bumper painted today 237.89 + Vat Was in a rush and didn't have the unpainted numbers, so didn't ask, will try again with them (perhaps ask around on TGTT a bit more or make the hour trek to Manchester scrapyards)

My first thought, used my old clocks to check where the temp needle sat, plugged in the SR clocks, waited as long as it took the old clocks to settle and dropped the needle back at the correct place (engine was on a bit before so the needle would lift, but swapping was done with engine off to avoid temps raising, and quickly to avoid temp drop), but left for ten mins it raised to match the fuel, so I unplugged, needle off, left the gauge to settle to it's lowest natural position, stick needle back on same behaviour Run my car for 10 secs, remove plugs, drop them into the new SR clocks, turn engine leave to settle (a warmed engine settles at 1/2 way up) it's off to 3/4 again On the rev counter simply giving the clocks power makes the rev needle jump(and I mean quick snap and steady hold) to 2k, engine running it moves as you would expect but with +2k revs (slammed the throttle down and got it off the dial,...... ) As it jumps as soon as it gets power, and on the working set on mine there's not even a twitch, and the wiring seems fine, I'm inclined to blame the clocks Perhaps I should leave them in for longer to see if the temp settles at 3/4 and try doing the needle recalibration thing again, maybe the rev too, these are miracle411's old clocks and as his custom faces were faded and peeling I had to remove the needles to get them off, so the needles have on and off so much it might be that, this is such a hassle and now I'm all full of doubt Keep meaning to scan these or the real faces in case people want to make there own (if anybody wants these send me a stamped and self addressed envelope) I have a ton of photos of all I've done, keep meaning to write guides Take the speedo bit out, take the face/needle off, post it to me, with the mileage you want and if you cover postage back too, I'll do it for free (not that I can do it quickly in my sleep now or anything,.....) Also it might be possible to swap the speedo mechanisms over ie, face/needle off both, put the non-rev counter speedo mechanism in the rev clocks, face/needle back on As I didn't want to rewire the green car I used my old non-rev clocks but with the existing speedo. So we have non-rev speedo in car now wired for a rev counter (the mechanism has survived the different wiring) hmmmm Phil, I strongly believe SR face/needle/plastic backing will fit on a non-rev speedo mechanism. Looking at some pics I have stashed, the mechanism should fit and wiring wise be fine also. Get to it boy! (wish I'd thought about this sooner instead of just doing it ) Me or him?

From a PM to Nanglebadger,...... Easiest option, fast drill in the back wind it back An option that I didn't think of was just swapping over the dials (well I did but the faces/needle are different so I didn't bother, but have since realised I could just use the existing speedo mechanism with the sr faces, but not sure if the electrics would have the same connections) What I did was fiddy and took ages(if have an e-mail addy send it to me, and I'll toss you a zip with all the pics I took) -Get a pot for screws and such! -Take off the plastic covers at the front (the clear cover and binnacle) -Remove the 4 screws from the back holding in the speedo mechanism (2 hold it in, the other act as circuit connectors, I'd advise removing them first) -Pop out the mechanism -Pull of the needle (if your not scared of snapping it your being too keen tongue.gif) I may of used a screwdriver to lever it a bit and then pulled straight up with my fingers -Remove the 2 little black screws holding the face on, the face and the plastic light-guide thing -There should be 1 screw at the side 2 at the front remove then (NOTE the metal bar at the front stops the mileage thing rotating freely, it will close loose but not out as it's attached to the copper coloured disk behind it, DO NOT PULL OFF/OUT, do your best to keep it on the plastic bungs) -Not sure of the order but the little bit of metal at the side (wraps around the front) needs to come off, and the bit of metal attached to a brown board at the bottom (holds a reed-valve) drops down and out -Take a deep breath -The front will now pull away from the back, BUT it gets caught on the adjuster (a small metal leave poking out the left side), the adjuster pivots and is wedged on a piece of plastic attached to the back, but it's sits in front of the copper disk, which is attached to the front half -So as you pull the front away from the back you need to easy the adjuster forwards also, and just to keep you interested what out fyou don't loose the worm gear on the left that transfer drive from the back half to the speedo number cylinders -Why did you just go through all that? simple the little brown cog on the left of the number cylinders is now free and not connected to anything (ie not-geared down slower) -Holding the metal bar at the front to anchor the number cylinders and support the copper disk, flick the brown cog with a finger on your other hand -You've either just put on or taken off a mile or two smile.gif -I didn't have a drill, so I cut a flat rubber band and wound around the end of my electric screwdriver so the rotations would go further -Putting it all back together is the same but in reverse I'd advise having the back, back side down with the worm gear facing up, as it's easier to get it the sit back properly (you get it half on then nudge with a narrow screwdriver to get it to 'pop' back in), don't forget the adjuster too! It's a lot of fiddly work but if you don't have a fast drill like me, it'll be quicker than winding back 40k miles at 5mph EXTRA TIPS -Get miracles wiring diagram (if your lucky like me you won't need to rewire anything) -I'm gonna presume you already know how todo the rest Good luck

Welcome, seats look nice

There's a post in the part no's section says £120 unpainted (by the Danish guy I think)

Had the time this weekend to get the SR clocks in the green car. Re-clocked the SR clocks to match milage, take out the old ones, rewire, put the new ones in. The temp needle keeps raising until it matches the fuel needle (3/4 full), the rev counter goes to 2k, BEFORE the engine starts. Acts normal when turned on, but 'idles' at 4k. Luckily still have the non-SR clocks from my car, tried them and they worked fine, so the re-wiring was fine Tried the SR clocks in my car, same behaviour these SR clocks must be buggered, and as I've had them a good while and (not got round to fitting them for ages), they'll be out of the breakers warranty Buggerit Any ideas?

Sounds good, well except theres no Jap breakers near me, have to trek off to Manchester (and after petrol and time spent, a new part may be better value, I'll get a quote for just the bumper monday, unless the weather is nice again so I rush home and forget ) The arch liners, did old ones fit, actually do the N/A's have them, had a quick look and don't think they do (or there not as big as I think they are ) Thanks

Is that the e-bay cup holder? did it install/fit ok? Strut looks fine to me

Morning!