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jason_l

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Everything posted by jason_l

  1. Like a real man! Looks good CAT, absolutely love this car, can't wait to see the dyno figures, should be good Keep up the good work dude Jason
  2. Can i be in the PP club? I really like that green colour
  3. This is going to be awsome! Will have the power to match the looks Keep up the good work Chanelle, Oh and those parts where posted this morning as promised Jason
  4. Well thats makes a diffeence then LOL If it was me and i was moving away and i had the money to buy and insure a Glanza/GT then just do it mate! If you really want one then you only have a year to do it before you move. If your lucky then you might be able to get it imported out there as well At the end of the day its your choice, people on here can advise you at what they think is best but its your decision. When i was a student i really wanted a lexus IS200 and i posted up on lexus owners club that i wanted one, quite a few people told me that i wouldn't be able to afford it and i should wait, blah, blah, blah. I got one anyway, that was 6 years ago and i still have it now Jason
  5. Thanks Mate Don't worry im not over doing it, hardly doing anything to be honest Are you collecting these alloy tanks now Whats the size of it?
  6. Thanks Sparky Been back up there today, block is all fully painted now and i have put some of the parts back on. Just need to start adding some Green parts now. They have ordered some Acid cleaner for the gearbox and hopefully will be getting that all fully cleaned on thursday/friday when im up there next. New cambelt kit also arrived today, now if only my new adjustable cam would turn up i would be all good @ Sparky, what Green have you used on your wheels/mirrors etc? Do you have any close up pics of the colour? Jason
  7. Fitting Stainless Steel dial kit for EP91 Glanza V (KPH Dial Face) I accept no responsibility for any damage done to your Speedo cluster when fitting these dials. If the instructions are followed correctly then you should have no problems and they should fit perfectly. If you do not feel up to the job then I am happy to fit them for you at no extra charge, you will have to send me your Speedo cluster at your own cost or drive to me and I will fit them while you wait (roughly 45 minutes or so). These dials will only fit the standard KPH Speedo dial face and will not fit Speedoâ??s that have the aftermarket MPH dial face fitted. 1. Firstly before removing the Speedo take a close look at the fuel gauge and take note of where the needle is on the gauge as this will need to be removed later and needs to go back on in the same location. It helps if you can take a detailed picture of the location of the needle on the gauge to use as a reference. 2. Remove the Speedo cluster from the car and make sure you have a clean, dust free environment to carry out the work. As the Speedo is being taken apart you want to ensure that no dust/grit gets inside the unit as it will be a pain to get out. 3. Remove the Speedo housing so you have access to the individual Dial faces, it should now look something like this. 4. The centre dial is the most straight forward one to fit so it makes sense to begin with this one and build up to the other two dials. Turn the unit over and remove the 4 screws shown in the picture below. 5. The centre dial should now come away from the main housing, allowing more room to fit the stainless dial face. 6. Remove the 2 small black screws that are either side of the needle, the standard dial face will now be loose. Now get a small piece of plain paper (roughly 1cm x 1cm) and fold it in half and then in half again so it looks something like the picture below. This piece of paper is used to protect the coating on the needle as you fit the new stainless piece over them. 7. Now place the small piece of paper over the central hole in the new stainless dial face so that it looks like the picture below. 8. The small piece of paper helps the stainless dial slide over the needle without damaging the orange coating on the bottom of the needle. Now rotate the needle so that it is aligned up with the 100kph mark on the standard dial face. Holding the new stainless piece carefully at the edges begin to slide it over the needle. It needs to be upside down as you slide it over as this is the easiest way to do it, as shown in the picture. 9. Be careful as you slide the stainless piece over the needle that you donâ??t put too much pressure on it otherwise it could get damaged. When you have fitted the central hole over the needle fully then carefully remove the small piece of paper from the stainless dial. 10. Now rotate the stainless dial face around so that it is aligned with the standard dial face underneath, as shown in the picture. 11. Carefully refit the 2 small black screws next to the needle but donâ??t yet fully tighten them up. Now holding the dial carefully at the sides begin to work your way around pulling out the tabs to release the adhesive. Take your time to ensure the dial doesnâ??t move and get misaligned, and press the dial down as you go to ensure it sticks into place. 12. Now make sure that the 2 small black screws are done up fully but not too tight otherwise it will warp the stainless dial. Using a clean lint free cloth ensure that the dial face is fully pressed down in place and is clean from any finger prints or smudges. 13. When you are happy with everything then refit the dial piece back into the main housing unit and refit the 4 screws in the back of the unit. Its now time to start fitting the stainless dial to the rev gauge. Begin with removing the 7 screws directly behind the rev gauge, shown in the picture. 14. The rev gauge should now come free and can be removed from the housing unit. The boost lights need to be removed from this gauge so that the new stainless piece can be fitted correctly. 15. Turn the unit over and carefully pull the boost light circuit board away from the gauge. It should just gently pull free and is only held in place by the 2 plastic clips at the top, see pictures. 16. From the back of the dial face carefully remove the 4 black rubber pieces by gently pulling them off the dial. Put these to one side with the boost light circuit board for refitting after the stainless piece has been added. 17. Turn the gauge over and carefully remove the 2 small black screws that are either side of the needle. Once these screws are removed its time to fit the new stainless dial face. 18. Get a small piece of plain paper (roughly 1cm x 1cm) that has been folded in half and in half again and place this over the central hole on the stainless dial piece, see picture. 19. With the needle held at roughly 6k revs begin to slide the stainless dial over like shown, again making sure that you donâ??t damage the needle as you slide it over. 20. As the stainless dial goes over the needle you need to keep it raised up as this original dial face has a needle rest that will get damaged if you slide the stainless piece fully over. When the central hole is lined up with the needle carefully rotate the stainless piece clockwise so that it is lined up but make sure that the needle stays in roughly the same location. Take extra care to ensure that the needle rest doesnâ??t get damaged, see pictures. 21. Now the stainless dial can carefully be placed over the needle rest and the small piece of paper can be removed. 22. The 2 small black screws that are either side of the needle can now be refitted and loosely done up ensuring that the standard dial and new stainless piece line up. 23. Holding the dials at the edge the tabs can now be carefully removed to activate the adhesive backing. When this has been done the stainless piece can be gently pushed down to ensure its stuck in place and the 2 black screws can be gently tightened up. 24. The gauge can now be turned over and the 4 rubber boost light surrounds can now be refitted to the rear of the unit. 25. As the stainless piece that has been added has now made the dial face slightly thicker the rubber boost light surrounds will need to be tweaked to fit correctly. This can be done using a small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully push them into place, see pictures. 26. The gauge can now be turned over and the boost light circuit can now be refitted. The circuit should just carefully press back into the two clips that hold it in place, see picture. 27. The face of the new dial can be cleaned with a clean lint free cloth until there are no smudges/fingerprints visible and refitted into the main unit by reinstalling the 7 screws on the back. 28. Now for the third and final gauge, begin by removing the 6 screws directly behind the gauge. This will enable the fuel/temp gauge to be removed from the main housing and you can begin fitting the new stainless dial face. 29. Now if you havenâ??t already done so take a note of the position of the fuel gauge needle. As this gauge has both the fuel and temp needles on the same dial face it is impossible to fit the new stainless piece without removing one of the needles. Once you are happy that you have recorded the position of the fuel needle then gently pull it off the shaft, taking care not to rotate the needle round. Make sure not to put any sideways pressure on the needle but to lift it up evenly. 30. Now remove the 4 small black screws that are on the face of the dial and the fuel gauge part should come away from the back. This part can be put to one side, all the time making sure that the main shaft does not get rotated. 31. As with the previous dials get a small piece of plain paper (roughly 1cm x 1cm) and fold it in half and in half again and place it on the new stainless dial as shown. 32. now the new stainless piece can be carefully fitted to the dial by sliding it over the needle as shown, again being careful not to damage the needle as you go. 33. Again when the central hole has cleared the needle fully the small piece of paper can be removed and the stainless piece can be rotated round to align with the standard dial face, as shown. 34. Now carefully turn the piece over and refit the fuel gauge part as shown. It should be reinstalled as shown in the picture below to ensure itâ??s the correct way round. Make sure that the needle does not get touched as this will move it from its recorded position. 35. Now reinstall the 4 small black screws on the front of the gauge, making sure not to fully tighten them up yet. As you do them up make sure that the stainless piece is aligned with the dial below. 36. Now carefully remove the adhesive tabs and stick the stainless piece down in its final location. The stainless dial can now be cleaned with a clean lint free cloth, making sure that you donâ??t touch the fuel needle shaft. The fuel gauge needle can now carefully be reinstalled in the same place that you took it of in and gently push it down into place, but not too far otherwise it will rub on the stainless piece. The gauge can now be reinstalled into the main housing and the 6 screws in the back can be done up. You should now have something that looks like this. 37. Once you are happy that everything is as clean and dust free as it can be then the Speedo unit can be reassembled carefully and refitted into the car. Thatâ??s it, all done! Jason
  8. Looks pretty nice Those wheels are so red its unreal, almost look like they are toxic As said above, get some clear indicators and it will look spot on. Anymore plans for it? Jason
  9. Ebay or on here. There are several for sale in the 'For Sale' section. Or you could post up a 'Wanted' post and people can show you what they have. All depends what you wnat and are willing to spend? Jason ;)
  10. These are mine....... Light as anything and although they don't look it they are REALLY comfy. Cost me just over £200 for the pair Not seen a set in a Glanza/GT yet ;) Jason ;)
  11. ;)
  12. That wasn't very nice ;) Best thing to do is do what Micky said, that will be your cheapest option before looking at the more expensive things it could be
  13. Neither EP82 or EP91 FTW ;) I would be loving driving that to work
  14. Don't worry you will get that ride, but i haven't had a ride in it yet as its not built ;)
  15. Wow, looks like you have done loads if you bought it stock a few months back. Personally i don't like the wheels but the rest is pretty good ;) Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming ;) Jason
  16. ^^^^ As he said That is stupid money for Insurance Personally if its going to cost that much i wouldn't bother...... i would just wait for a few years and drive a shitter to build up some no claims. Or buy a kitcar, i hear they have really cheap insurance ;) ;)
  17. ;) Well good. I have a bike can for mine so should be even more quiet i guess. Yours looks spot on! Must save so much weight from the car, and opens up the rear for a nice big carbon diffuser under the bumper
  18. Looks sooooo nice CAT How does it sound?
  19. Hi Dalyz, I am going for something similar in my project, obviously its not a starlet/glanza . Rather than the exhaust bending down off the turbo and under the engine it literaly comes straight off the turbo, will go along 300mm or so have one 90 degree bend and will then have a carbon bike can mounted over the gearbox. I have been told that it will be not as bad as i think it will be but won't know till its done. There are others about with front exit exhausts and they will be able to tell you exactly what its like. Jason ;)
  20. Welcome to the club mate everyone will ask this so here goes, get some pics up! Jason
  21. I know, i know. Well i originally was going to go TD04 Then downgraded to the TD12, now i have decided on the Hybrid. I think no lag is the way to go, it needs a smoother acceleration curve. Rather than nothing, nothing, nothing...........BANG! Car flips onto its roof I know it will be crazy with a standard one, but not crazy enough for me
  22. Thats amazing how you fitted the bracket then the caliper magicly switched round to the otherside of the disc! Sorry couldn't resist. They look great though, if i had a starbo i would be buying a set of these, keep us all informed of what they are like when you come to use them properly Jason
  23. I didn't think it was a bad price actually, was going to go TD12 but i think a hybrid will be more than enough plus i won't have to change manifold etc with the TD12 setup. Unless another cheaper fully sexual hybrid comes along but to be honest if it looks like poo i will stay clear of it.
  24. Really? Didn't read that part was too busy drooling over the pics
  25. Hmmm. Not very good pics, will probably just get a sexy one from Enzo, at least i know it will be all good then
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