Ricky@Race-Tech

We can do it, although it will depend on the parts provided. You mentioned a lightened crank, thats not something you would want to have in your engine! Send me an email with a list of parts etc, and i'll work you out a price. Ricky@race-tech.net. Or call 07852 201375.

Not had a problem with Hastings rings although not used them in a starlet. Is the engine standard or forged? We will have rings in stock either way. Whats way more important than the rings is the quality of the machine work/bores and the ring gaps. Regards Ricky

Even point slightly upwards although not ideal it would still give downforce. Because more air would go over the car than under it. How is it mounted though? Just to the bumper?

Would be easy to say with pictures to be honest. I'm guessing the crank wasn't balanced? Also has it got an aftermarket flywheel and more importantly pulley?

Nice to see it going well Mike.

Some quick edits there ;) Just as a pointer to anybody else ordering. We can supply different spacers to suit stock injectors. But these would add £20 to the cost (turned aluminium). We have done this a few times. However injector lengths vary so it would be a waste of £20 for some people. As you had purchased yours and made up your own "kit" I expected you had this covered. If you let us know the overall length you require we can make you some spacers up. Or of course just use some washers and remove the plastic spacer. As said above, I would shim it to be fairly tight on the bot

Just seen this after replying to your PM. You will want a couple of mm of "crush" on the standard bottom seals ideally. So looks from the picture like you will need 1-3 m6 washers. This varies depending what injectors you are using. When purchasing a full fuel kit from us we can supply the correct spacers for the injectors. I'd advise to go this route if you are doing a "DIY" build.

EGT's aren't the issue. Too much timing has been used in the above case.

That is the complete opposite of what would actually happen. As for the injectors been the problem. That shouldn't be the case either. We can check them for you should you require. If it was the fuel pump, I wouldn't expect to see those pistons damaged in the way. Again we could test the pump for you on our rig. Its important to find the issue before proceeding to rebuild the engine IMO.

We have a new billet TD04 that would do the job.

Coast down or percentage we see similar figures. So we just use percentage as do Dyno Dynamics, anyway, this is well off topic now. All dyno's use the same equation to get the power though. I'm not saying all read the same. But they should.

No it isn't, physic's dictates this. If your on about calculating flywheel HP that's a different thing, and yes, dyno's have different methods. We can do a coast-down wheel loss on our dyno. Or simply multiply the wheel power by a percentage. Regards Ricky

All dyno's calculate BHP in exactly the same way. We ran lots of cars, including Sock's car on the same day around this time last year. His car was 343IIRC then, it made within 1 hp what it had made before. All of the other cars made within 2-3hp what they had made on various other dynos. We will have graphs of the billet TDO4's in the next couple of weeks. We are in sheffield, and always have manifolds etc around, if anybody wants to check one before they buy. Of course spool on a dyno is easy to "cheat" and you can easily make competitors products spool up much slower. This is why ther

Are you sure on that? Our kits use the industry standard pipe up until around 12 months ago. (not just in starlets, its what they use for Evo's, Honda's etc) This would crack if EGT's are too high. We have never had a manifold crack when we have done the mapping. That said we still changed to a material slightly heavier but stronger. We also have other options for more exotic materials but the cost is much higher, we've never made a starlet manifold like this as the cost is simply too high. Our new kits also have an option for a Billet wheel TD04, giving unrivaled spool

Our backbox's wouldn't fit onto another exhaust because the flanges are different. You would need the decat back. Also, the sound doesn't just come from the backbox. Regards Ricky

We do a drive in drive out emanage blue for £500 on CT9's. Why you would risk your engine is beyond me.

We have our TD04 kits on offer. You will not get a better quality or better performing kit. Have a look in our section.

We have these in stock.

We have a couple of hybrid type GT28 and 30 turbo's. All proven to work great on the 4e's.

Actually with the friction losses. I'd say the one breathing to the floor would have a greater restriction. Also any oil could find its way to your brakes/tyres. It will leave oil on the back of your car. (on the underside would actually be a good thing though haha) Oil would tend to "puddle" in the pipe and drip on your drive. You don't have a way of monitoring it. I see your point, but for the cost of a tank of fuel or similar your better with a catch can. Also if you use good quality hose the hose length been longer would ofset the cost of the can.

Lots of interesting theories. We have actually monitored the effects on crank case pressure. We know exactly what works and what doesn't. In short, its illegal to run the gases to atmosphere. But it is the best way when on boost. Recirc is better off boost. But certainly not on boost. Also the catch cans off ebay aren't great. There is a blue one pictured above.

I'd beg to differ. We balance 100's of turbo's a year. NOT ONE ever has been within tolerance, infact, most are out by 10 x the amount we want to see. The turbo's have usually worn as a direct result of been out of balance. There are also other things to mention. Shaft wear, housing wear. All the kits you buy come with standard size bearings. Its a waste of time and money if your not going to do it correctly.

To be honest i'd look for a different manifold, that one looks like it'll give you lots of trouble.

The difference between the Rx7 and 4e are HUGE! If a turbo works well on a Rotary its the last thing you want on the 4e. We do lots of t3 based turbo's.

Yes they will be ok at that power.